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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Swoop Gimp or Be Dust (5.9 C3)
By: Kurt Burt When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route goes clean really easily, I just soloed the route in 16.5 hours on 10/17/09 trip report on supertopo.com.
Rack I took:
2 sets brass offsets
2 sets alum offsets
1 set DMM peenut (like big brass offset)
2 set stoppers (1-9)
1 set Lowe Balls (only used #2 once)
2 set alien
1 set offset alien
3 set cam to #1
2 ea #2 camolot-#3
1 ea #4-#5
2 filed bd grapple hooks
1 bat hook
This rack got me up the thing, I back cleaned some on pitch 3 and 4. Never felt lik... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: Kurt Burt When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been a guide here for years never knew about the route. Just got off the route with my son Adam who is 7. His first multi pitch route, just me and my boy just a perfect evening in the red rocks. Why you you rappel the approach? Just walk in with a 10 foot 3rd class move doen the gully from the route.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fantastic route, seems so improbable, I looked at the first pitch and thought wow, gonna get sand bagged on this one, but it was all there. We took a double rack to 3 camolot which was way over kill, the big piece for the money pitch I didn't see the point. I got a #3 when you start to commit a big piece might give you and extra 5 feet of comfort? Just go for it and don't drag that big lug up there! 4 bolt face seemed a little easy for 5.8 but it is runout just search for the holds they a... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician : Poof (5.7+ R)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the R rating is unwarranted, same with the 5.7+, this was my first route in the Needles I am far from a strong climber. First pitch great gear 5.6 to the tree, second 5.7 don't go right off the belay just climb straight up above the tree (5.5) to the bolt then easy climbing left, some weird gear (I doubled up makes it bomber) make a couple 5.7 slab moves to a small ledge, third climb left (5.6) to one or two moves of 5.7 traverse back right then to the top. We didn't summit to the watch ... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area
By: Kurt Burt When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just spent a week out in the Taos area and had a blast. What a great variety of rock and style of climbs. Jay took me on a great tour of the area and enjoyed everything from Comales, to TP, the trad at El Rito (Jay was sick, good jerky huh Jay?) and the great Wild and Scenic. Climbing here was very surreal and I want to give an applause to all the guys doing great work developing the crags, and making it a great area to climb in. Jays book is pretty close to right on, I have never been to the ar... more >>
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Location: CA : High Desert : Old Woman Statue : The North Face Of Old Woman... (5.7 C0+)
By: Kurt Burt When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just went and soloed the old woman. What an adventure! I left Vegas 05/08/09 at around noon drove out there and started hiking around 4.30pm. The hike up the gully sucks and when I topped out on the ridge it was so far away still! I continued on and arrived at the base at 7.00. The first pitch went as good as a 5.7 corner goes, I hurried and rapped grab one ladder and rushed back up to the ledge so I could top out before dark. I lead the bolt ladder in under 5 minutes and was standing on top. I ... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Kurt Burt When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put up a new route on the right. Th waterfall right on the right is the last pitch of my route. It is in this crazy chimney and the whole time I was climbing it I was praying that a storm like that wouldn't roll in! Classic shot!
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