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Skyline Arete. Gallatin Canyon, MT.


Member Since: May 6, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 9, 2014
Contact Kurt Prond


Point Rank: # 2,410
Total Points: 228
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kurt Prond been climbing?










Contributions


All 82 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 1 | Stars 19 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the Correction. Noted it on the topo.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a)
By: Kurt Prond When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Also, fwiw, we descended the gully to the west again, Pete after reading your comment. You are right about getting out of the gully, but I will say both times I've gone down this way, I was ready to give up climbing for good at the bottom. Very sandy, and steep. Pete, out of curiosity, why do you prefer this way?


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This photo is left of the actual route.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a)
By: Kurt Prond When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again this summer with Ellie Thompson and had a perfect day. Both times I have done the route in 9 pitches with a 70m, and it seems to work out well. They end up being full length pitches and it requires a bit of simul-climbing on the first pitch. I uploaded some photos that will hopefully help with route finding. I also uploaded a topo for doing it in 9 pitches-hopefully this is helpful. I can upload larger separate files if it is too hard to read. The alpine rock and ice topo is... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Hahaha. Did the original route yesterday and there was much grunting and groveling...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Sig Sauer (5.12a)
By: Kurt Prond When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: I'm not bitter.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Kurt Prond When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: No, I think BD .4s are typically good finger locks, .5s are rattly fingers. Depends on the size of your fingers. I also thought pitch 1 was just as hard(more sustained) than the finger crack. We did this route an a very windy day in 2010. Made rappelling tough. At one point, we coiled our ropes and tossed them, and they blew straight up!


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a)
By: Kurt Prond When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: For long hard free climbs, this is one of the best I've done. And it is so close to Bozeman, I'm amazed that more people don't climb it. I thought the hike in was brutal. The route is pretty straightforward if you can decipher the above description. I'd say it is a fair rating of 5.11a. Very high quality rock. Definitely worth the hike. I've heard that people do it car to car in a day. 1600' of climbing and 18 miles of hiking seems very difficult and I wouldn't recommend it. On the descent, you ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: Jan 17, 2012

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Comments: Jesus. Why does everybody have to get angry? I was just making an observation. Kudos to the man for free soloing Astroman a lot. He could still make a mistake and die. As for everyone else, chill out for crying out loud, it doesn't matter.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Digital Readout (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Yeah. I must have crushed a nerve in my finger. I lost feeling and still haven't got it all back 3 months later.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Tulgey Wood (5.10a)
By: Kurt Prond When: Jul 6, 2011

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Comments: Great Route! I stemmed most of the first pitch, especially the seam. Linked the second, which makes sense though the rope gets pretty dang heavy to pull up and clip. 3rd pitch, while maybe not technically harder, was definitely more sustained and will test your stamina. I bumped a BD #4 for about 40 feet. Nice little roof move at the end also.
Quality route.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Tigger (5.10a/b)
By: Kurt Prond When: Jul 6, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, you are probably right, I think I had just gotten back from red rocks...haha. Everything there is a little soft. I would still say 10a is a bit sandbagged though...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Kurt Prond When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: Definitely bring a #6 for the offwidth. The "bolt" is an old star drive that sticks halfway out with a hanger that appears to made out of tinfoil. I used it, but wished I had brought the #6.

Also, do not try to rap the North Face with a 70m!!! Even though it is published in the "Best of Moab" guidebook. A 70m leaves you 10 feet short!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Closed Course (5.8)
By: Kurt Prond When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Replaced the anchor slings on 5/30/11


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Thing In Between (5.9)
By: Kurt Prond When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Let's get a decent description here.

First, I think this is the first 5.9 I've done that has a mandatory move pulling a roof on ringlocks. I've been on some 5.11s that had moves like that.

This is a very good route, and I think it gets overlooked. The rock quality is the very highest for this area, and the crack is clean and sustained.

Start on some blocky looking stuff just left of Tigger, you can get some nut placements in here, then up under the first roof(#3 camalot). Exit right a... more >>


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Tigger (5.10a/b)
By: Kurt Prond When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: I agree, this route is way better than First Best. Just did it again today and I think it is one of the best finger cracks around the Bozeman area. High Quality Stone and sustained. Anywhere else it would be 5.11! Read the description again-it does not describe a 5.10-
Also, I used my 00 master cam through my .5 camalot. Bring all your small stuff.


Location: MT : Madison River Area : Neat Rock : Standard Route (5.9)
By: Kurt Prond When: May 7, 2011

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Comments: You've got to take Montana ratings with a grain of salt. Back in the day, when these routes were put up, 5.10 was the hardest. So 5.9 was just one grade below, which still meant pretty hard. I guess Montanans are still a little behind the times, which may or may not be good. Anywhere else, the last pitch of this route would be called solid 5.10, maybe even 10+. There aren't very many 5.9's that pull a decent sized roof with almost nothing for feet at other destinations, even if it is bomber hand... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : They Died Laughing (5.9)
By: Kurt Prond When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: When I did it it was called 5.9+, which everyone knows could be anywhere from 5.9 to 5.11. It was stout for a .9 I thought. I onsighted, and then toproped it again, and was very perplexed as to how I onsighted. I struggled on TR. Great route though!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: Mar 29, 2011

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Comments: I agree, I feel bad for the belayer. I wouldn't climb with someone who did that.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11a) : Photo
By: Kurt Prond When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: sketchy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Kurt Prond When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: This was one of the best climbs I've done. Every pitch was high quality. The crux on pitch is definitely hard, but well protected (green C3's, bring 2 if you have them) and also had some good stances to rest. Some guides say the 6th pitch is scary offwidth to the top of the small tower, but it makes a lot more sense to tunnel through and start the last pitch on the big ledge on the west side, and it is only 5.7. Don't be scared by it. The last pitch is quality!!! Very long.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Kurt Prond When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Yeah, Maybe they slid, but the sleeves are still there in the rock. Right now there's an old piton at the hanging belay(which we just linked pitch 4 and 5) then, if I remember right 4 bolts(one a piton) beyond that. They stop about 20 feet short of the anchors so it's a pretty good runout...but you can place a .5 about 15 feet above your last bolt. Hope that is helpful. I would hope someone wouldn't actually remove bolts, but who knows?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Kurt Prond When: May 6, 2010

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Comments: This is a great route-also the scardest I have been on a climb due to the fact that someone has chopped the top 2 bolts on the crux ear pitch, which forces you to run it out about 15 feet on very difficult offwidth. Whoever did that-shame on you for compromising others safety for the sake of your ego. I took a nice 20 footer there! Managed to muster enough mental strength to try it again and did it. Thank God.
So be prepared!