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A ladybug on a rock in front of Conundrum Peak, El...


Member Since: Dec 18, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 23, 2014
Contact Kurt Johnson


Point Rank: # 185
Total Points: 2,709
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 0
255 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kurt Johnson been climbing?










Contributions


All 691 | Routes 33 | Areas 15 | Photos 420 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 22 | Stars 136 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : White Dike Area : The White Dike (5.7+ R)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Nov 9, 2006

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Comments: Thanks for the info...It's been a while and my memory's not as good as it used to be, now that I'm in my mid 30s;) Perhaps we were using only one 60m rope and stretched that out on rappel, which would more or less confirm the 200 and some odd feet. I have slides of the climb but don't have them with me to double check, but that's probably what I was thinking when I thought it was longer. It does deserve more than one star, despite its sketchy rock, so I'm giving it another.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Nov 2, 2006

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Comments: In his mid 70s, Ray still is as strong as an ox. When he shakes your hand he just about breaks it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Kurt Johnson When: Nov 2, 2006

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Comments: What a hardman! And on toprope even! How can I get his phone number? -just kiddin' Pat


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Zingando (5.5)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Nov 2, 2006

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Comments: The first time I tried to climb Zingando, I couldn't find it and ended up doing a variation of Cottontail instead. The second time I tried it, I ended up with an experience similar to Dave's. I believe that lichenous roof is actually the right roof, but perhaps it looks like it doesn't get a lot of traffic because a lot of people end up doing what Jim did, which is what I did the third time I climbed the route.

A lot of people I've talked to never even end up finding the route at all, I think m... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : East Gully (5.4)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: It may not be megaclassic, but 5.4s don't get much better than this...I'm giving it 3 stars.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Peshastin Pinnacles State P... : Orchard Rock : East Side
By: Kurt Johnson When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: I see now why you've got such a high rank on this site.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome
By: Kurt Johnson When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: What's the point of writing a description so short you need to tell us to buy the guidebook to get more information?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Mt Olympus
By: Kurt Johnson When: Oct 30, 2006

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Comments: Will you really shoot me in the ass, you anonymous coward?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Mt Olympus
By: Kurt Johnson When: Apr 8, 2002

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Comments: Like Bernard, I too have always wanted to find out more about the property boundary, but got only as far as visiting the front desk at the Forest Service office in town, and nobody there seemed to know anything about it. I did take a look at the map under the glass on the desk itself, and though it's not detailed enough to determine where the boundary lies, it appears that indeed the entire south face of the rock itself is actually owned by the ranch (although I have yet to see cows grazing up t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Feb 20, 2002

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Comments: While the top may have an easy runout, other parts of the route are curiously overbolted, with less than 3 feet between 2 of the bolts and several others which aren't much farther apart. This makes for a great beginner lead, though. We scrambled up and left (roped up - it's a little steep, and we weren't sure what kind of terrain we'd encounter) and walked off down the west gully.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : The Lost World : Colossus Crack (5.8 R)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Jan 9, 2002

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Comments: Here's the description that I wrote after doing the first ascent with Charles on Sept. 14, 1998:

On the left side of the east face of the Colossus is a crack-filled wall covered by green lichens (the Green Wall). Climb the left-most crack - the largest of the cracks - to the top of the Green Wall (5.8). Belay on a sloping ledge just left of the top of the crack (very small Aliens or TCUs helpful for the belay). Climb straight up from the belay - you are now on the south face - and continue up a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Lizzard Warrior (5.10d)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Jan 2, 2002

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Comments: This is a fun sport route chock full of creative moves on interesting holds. Definitely a classic.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : The Lost World : Yosemite Slab (5.10a R)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 22, 2001

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Comments: This route isn't necessarily worthy of no stars...in fact, it looks very aesthetic and the climbing's good. However, due to the fact that I almost died climbing it and that I never finished it, I didn't think that I should rate it. So, I chose to give it no stars thinking that the program wouldn't let me leave that section blank (which is why there's a bomb icon in the right-hand corner).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sunshine Buttress
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 20, 2001

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Comments: PS - If you climb this route more than 3 times in one year, you're automatically entitled to membership in the elite and prestigeous "Brown-Haired Lady Club." So far it only has 2 members: Kurt Johnson and Carl Pelletier, who by the way only climbed the route together once, and who's sum total of ascents is greater than all the ascents that route has seen in the past 10 years.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 19, 2001

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Comments: The climbing definitely felt like 5.9 to me, and both the first and second pitches are rated as such in various guidebooks. While I think climbing history should be honored, it's also conceivable that the first ascentionists, for whatever reason, rated it a grade easier than it should have been. This happens today and it happened back then. Some do it deliberately, some not. But either way, it makes sense to update ratings based on how the route feels to the average climber. It's been done to Ba... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 19, 2001

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Comments: My partner and I hadn't even planned on climbing this when we did...but after being literally raced to the base of Ancient Art (our originally intended route) by another party who absolutely had to get there first, we decided to climb Castleton instead. Thinking we'd need big gear (#4.5 and #5 Camalots and/or Bigbros) which we'd left at home, we almost changed our mind. But as someone mentioned before, they would've only gotten in the way. I'd definitely bring a #3.5 and a @POU... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Cackle Crack (5.8)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: This is an excellent first 5.8 trad lead. Not too long, bomber gear, good rests, and very aesthetic. When I did it, I ended up rapping off a two-bolt anchor to the left and at the same height as the top of the Cackle Crack dihedral - a short but sketchy traverse that could send you swinging back into the dihedral, but an alternative way of rapping off.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: The thing I love most about [Hallett] is the short 2 mile approach. With no need for an alpine start, you can drink more beers the night before, sleep late, and still get back to the parking lot in time for a late breakfast.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : The Lost World : Yosemite Slab (5.10a R)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: Incidently, the "s" rating was added by me and isn't included in the guidebook


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: I was with Charles during his second time climbing this route, and even though he had climbed it before, a hold unexpectedly broke 30 feet up the first pitch, causing him to take a 15 foot fall. Just before this happened, he backed up the only piece he had placed so far...a smart move since even on easy terrain, a broken hold and a single piece of gear don't make for a winning combination. Otherwise, it was a fun route with a stellar crux and was difinitely a good intro to Black Canyon climbing,... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: I'd have to agree with George, it felt a lot harder to me than any 5.8 I've ever done. Charles, however, is trying to convince me that I climbed it wrong and wants me to try it again.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: The perfect rock for a fun and mellow day of climbing, especially for beginers. It's got the easiest approach of any of Lumpy's formations and a greater collection of easy to moderate routes. It's definitely got its challenging runout routes as well, but it can't be beat if you're looking for a day of rest and relaxation on the rock.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Good Timing (5.10a)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: When Charles and I climbed this, we couldn't find the 4th bolt mentioned in the guidebook. Also, the new Gillett guidebook has downrated this route to 5.9, but to me it definitely felt like 5.10a.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Sibling Rivalry (5.9-)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: Bring a competent partner as a fall on the bolted section could cause the second to swing left over the edge of the fairly sharp dihedral.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Kurt Johnson When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: If you're strapped for time, you can do the route in 3 pitches and still get all the stellar climbing in. P1) Start on top of the leaning flake which puts you right at the crux move and head up to the belay at the base of the classic hand crack. P2) Jam the crack, do the traverse and belay on the standard belay ledge. P3) traverse diagonally right across the slightly runout slab, and over to the base of the obvious flake-filled chimney. Head up the 5.7 chimney (mostly jams and jugs) until your r... more >>


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