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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great alternative to camping in the needles... here is the link to supertopo .
link to the b&b
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Kurt Burt When: Mar 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is a trip report from a one day solo of the route... lots of fun...
www.supertopo.com/tr/The-slowest-solo-push-on-record-Desert->>>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Burt Crack (5.10)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jan 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now that is a great name to a great route! Thanks Foley
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Kurt Burt When: Sep 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just got off the route today and with only a single 70m. The raps on pitch 7 I think does not reach. I was about 2 feet short had to flip upside down to clip the daisy and down climb. I was using a new 9.2 70m so plenty of stretch still not a good idea unless you are comfortable, but a 70m was nice linked many pitches making the route go faster.
Kurt "Burt" Arend
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Mama Jugs (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Kurt Burt When: Aug 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go Donna! She is a perfect rock star!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Nadia's Nine (5.9)
By: Kurt Burt When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did the route, whoever carved in to the start "route X> 5.9+ way harder" you are a douche. IF you can't climb the grades here in RR, or wherever for that matter, stay home. I spent an hour trying to erase what you did, and you are lower then the dog sh*t i found on the approach. So if you read this, have the balls to fess up and admit your mistakes and go clean up your mess. And if you want to call me out, just message me, I will meet you wherever you want.
Kurt "Burt" Arend
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Line (5.10a R)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route at the crag, gear is good, the start prop has the worst gear of the route. At the "crux' great gear, not an R route at all.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, honestly you should really consider giving up climbing if the base of the panty wall has you on edge. This is what causes excessive bolting and reto bolting of our routes. Chris there is plenty of places to place gear along the base or boulder up and clip the first bolt if you are so inclined to jump off a big ledge. But to call off the day because an inability to think is why a lot of us locals are fighting a losing battle with bolts popping up all over the place on some of our most cove... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : 5.8 sport route (5.7+)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: its that bad
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Red Awaking (5.7 A4)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock is really good, there is a seam there that can be seen from the ground, but it is just a line, can't get a beak in it. The pitch after the drill pitch was really wild off the belay and then some wild free moves to the end. Very classic route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Healy's Haunted House (5.7 X)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the better routes on the wall imho. Sucks that someone would add a bolt to it. IF you don't like the runout do other routes on the wall. very simple. So it is far from 5.9 X the move is 5.7, feet on the flat wall and move to climbers right a few moves, spooky yes, but not that bad. there are way harder pitches on the route then the second, it is just runout. So do some homework, figure out that it is runout, if this is your limit of leading don't climb it. Why do you feel so entit... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Swoop Gimp or Be Dust (5.9 C3)
By: Kurt Burt When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route goes clean really easily, I just soloed the route in 16.5 hours on 10/17/09 trip report on
Rack I took:
2 sets brass offsets
2 sets alum offsets
1 set DMM peenut (like big brass offset)
2 set stoppers (1-9)
1 set Lowe Balls (only used #2 once)
2 set alien
1 set offset alien
3 set cam to #1
2 ea #2 camolot-#3
1 ea #4-#5
2 filed bd grapple hooks
1 bat hook
This rack got me up the thing, I back cleaned some on pitch 3 and 4. Never felt like I was out th... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: Kurt Burt When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been a guide here for years never knew about the route. Just got off the route with my son Adam who is 7. His first multi pitch route, just me and my boy just a perfect evening in the red rocks. Why you you rappel the approach? Just walk in with a 10 foot 3rd class move doen the gully from the route.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fantastic route, seems so improbable, I looked at the first pitch and thought wow, gonna get sand bagged on this one, but it was all there. We took a double rack to 3 camolot which was way over kill, the big piece for the money pitch I didn't see the point. I got a #3 when you start to commit a big piece might give you and extra 5 feet of comfort? Just go for it and don't drag that big lug up there! 4 bolt face seemed a little easy for 5.8 but it is runout just search for the holds they a... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician : Poof (5.7+ R)
By: Kurt Burt When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the R rating is unwarranted, same with the 5.7+, this was my first route in the Needles I am far from a strong climber. First pitch great gear 5.6 to the tree, second 5.7 don't go right off the belay just climb straight up above the tree (5.5) to the bolt then easy climbing left, some weird gear (I doubled up makes it bomber) make a couple 5.7 slab moves to a small ledge, third climb left (5.6) to one or two moves of 5.7 traverse back right then to the top. We didn't summit to the watch ... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area
By: Kurt Burt When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just spent a week out in the Taos area and had a blast. What a great variety of rock and style of climbs. Jay took me on a great tour of the area and enjoyed everything from Comales, to TP, the trad at El Rito (Jay was sick, good jerky huh Jay?) and the great Wild and Scenic. Climbing here was very surreal and I want to give an applause to all the guys doing great work developing the crags, and making it a great area to climb in. Jays book is pretty close to right on, I have never been to the ar... more >>
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Location: CA : High Desert : Old Woman Statue : The North Face Of Old Woman... (5.7 C0+)
By: Kurt Burt When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just went and soloed the old woman. What an adventure! I left Vegas 05/08/09 at around noon drove out there and started hiking around 4.30pm. The hike up the gully sucks and when I topped out on the ridge it was so far away still! I continued on and arrived at the base at 7.00. The first pitch went as good as a 5.7 corner goes, I hurried and rapped grab one ladder and rushed back up to the ledge so I could top out before dark. I lead the bolt ladder in under 5 minutes and was standing on top. I ... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Kurt Burt When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I put up a new route on the right. Th waterfall right on the right is the last pitch of my route. It is in this crazy chimney and the whole time I was climbing it I was praying that a storm like that wouldn't roll in! Classic shot!
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