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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Homestake Road Crag
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the effort on Homespank directions everybody :P If this is in fact the big wall that runs for a 1/4 mile uphill above the gigantic talus field, then comers beware: The approach trail is several hundred yards down the road from where the "flat parking" is described (there are a couple 1-2 car pullouts in the vicinity) and it's nearly impossible to find if you don't know what you're looking for. The trail is difficult to follow through the talus and is completely unmarked. The rock at t... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Tissue Tiger (5.12b)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the no-hands rest in the cup holder!!! Wear pants :) Great route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bad Brains (5.12a)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard, no matter which way you go about it. You will be pulling on small/sharp crimps or terrible pockets for the crux sequence. Height won't really help you out either. Enjoy the first two bolts, bust the crux, clip 3, hold it together thru the balancy moves to the anchors. Not soft for the grade IMHO.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good rock, fun climbing, lichen on some [good] holds. Several options to start, 1st bolt too low / unnecessary because there is a good stance for clipping the second.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Batso Canal (5.10)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little awkward for most of the route, follows 3 distinct features for only 1/2 of their length then the climbing ends abruptly. Still dirty and looks like several holds will come off with traffic. There could definitely be a direct start thru the steep rock into the arete.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Misc Bouldering : Cemetery Blocks : Cemetery Block
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you absolutely must stop and hike up to this block, at least try to enjoy the views. There are some incredible looking buttresses WAY uphill, I don't know if they offer any routes or are worth the full hike to find out, but they certainly look the part. This block has a few problems, all closely spaced (read contrived), none worth the time (read loose/chossy). Access: Park next to the utility shack, hike thru the flat area towards the right side of the gully, a climber's trail can be found... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Beta Test (5.11c)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: May 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very insecure crux, could use another bolt. This is a safety concern, not just because I was pissing myself here (and that's a nasty mess), but also because I took several unpleasant falls into the edge of the roof below. Unnecessarily sketchy/dangerous for a sport route in CCC in my opinion. Other than that, the route looks and climbs very well.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Feb 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone climbed the sloper sequence that traverses under the roof? It climbs much more solid rock and doesn't depend on the climber having pencil-thin fingers. This variation doesn't require skipping any clips, but does decrease the difficulty of the roof slightly in my opinion. Thoughts?
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