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Member Since: Feb 26, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 21, 2014
Contact Kristoffer Schmarr


Point Rank: # 5,642
Total Points: 61
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kristoffer Schmarr been climbing?










Kristoffer Schmarr

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 92 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 1 | Page Improvments | Comments 16 | Posts 29 | Stars 23 | Ratings 20

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10) : Photo
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: No, it doesn't look like Braille Book. No water sculpted jugs on the face.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Should all the trailhead names in the 'Getting There' section be Eagle FALLS trailhead?


Location: International : Europe : Greece
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a valuable resource if you want climbing info for any of the crags around the country. Plenty right in and around Athens to enjoy! www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Main


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Dog Pile Area : The Dog Pile : Kung Pao (5.12+)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Looks like an undercling broke off at the top *recently??* right next to the third bolt. There's no obvious way to move up and right to where the TR anchors are located but there appears to be a sequence that would top out going left (pretty reachy/hard). Has this seen a recent ascent to verify the grade? Flake out left just after first bolt is also very flexible! For all these warnings I will add that the movement is pretty incredible for a 3 bolt problem :)


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: There was a pair of tan Mythos on a fallen tree under the 5.9 as of June 10.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Driller Instinct (5.10d)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: AMAZING! Best route of my visit!
Alternative descent is to belay up your second, top out the climb, walk back into the chimney, boulder out, and scramble/hike down (the portion of the 'walkoff' that navigates the summit is nearly technical and a bit heady). I didn't see any two bolt anchor in the dihedral (But maybe I didn't look close enough).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : The Alcove
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: BEWARE FIXED ANCHORS!! All the lower-offs that I saw at The Alcove (5.June.2013) were in desperate need of replacement. They were all dangerously worn and sharp!! I do not recommend lowering off of them and you should instead rappel (and NEVER TR on permanent anchors).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Tickled Pink (5.11a)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Couldn't be sure of where this line actually went. Tried locating it based on the description here and the picture in the actual guidebook. Perhaps the third bolt requires an awkward/contrived series of moves out to the right and then back?? Otherwise this is a .10a R that climbs straight up on good pockets.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the effort on Homespank directions everybody :P If this is in fact the big wall that runs for a 1/4 mile uphill above the gigantic talus field, then comers beware: The approach trail is several hundred yards down the road from where the "flat parking" is described (there are a couple 1-2 car pullouts in the vicinity) and it's nearly impossible to find if you don't know what you're looking for. The trail is difficult to follow through the talus and is completely unmarked. The rock at t... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Tissue Tiger (5.12b)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: Love the no-hands rest in the cup holder!!! Wear pants :) Great route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bad Brains (5.12a)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Hard, no matter which way you go about it. You will be pulling on small/sharp crimps or terrible pockets for the crux sequence. Height won't really help you out either. Enjoy the first two bolts, bust the crux, clip 3, hold it together thru the balancy moves to the anchors. Not soft for the grade IMHO.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: Good rock, fun climbing, lichen on some [good] holds. Several options to start, 1st bolt too low / unnecessary because there is a good stance for clipping the second.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Batso Canal (5.10)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: A little awkward for most of the route, follows 3 distinct features for only 1/2 of their length then the climbing ends abruptly. Still dirty and looks like several holds will come off with traffic. There could definitely be a direct start thru the steep rock into the arete.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Misc Bouldering : Cemetery Blocks : Cemetery Block
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Jun 12, 2008

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Comments: If you absolutely must stop and hike up to this block, at least try to enjoy the views. There are some incredible looking buttresses WAY uphill, I don't know if they offer any routes or are worth the full hike to find out, but they certainly look the part. This block has a few problems, all closely spaced (read contrived), none worth the time (read loose/chossy). Access: Park next to the utility shack, hike thru the flat area towards the right side of the gully, a climber's trail can be found... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Beta Test (5.11c)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: May 9, 2008

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Comments: Very insecure crux, could use another bolt. This is a safety concern, not just because I was pissing myself here (and that's a nasty mess), but also because I took several unpleasant falls into the edge of the roof below. Unnecessarily sketchy/dangerous for a sport route in CCC in my opinion. Other than that, the route looks and climbs very well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Kristoffer Schmarr When: Feb 26, 2008

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Comments: Has anyone climbed the sloper sequence that traverses under the roof? It climbs much more solid rock and doesn't depend on the climber having pencil-thin fingers. This variation doesn't require skipping any clips, but does decrease the difficulty of the roof slightly in my opinion. Thoughts?