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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jul 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve Edwards touts this as an undiscovered gym. I would advise passing on it unless you just want to tick off a new area. It isn't bad climbing, but it isn't great - and SB has some great climbing.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : New site! ClimbingSLO.org: ...
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jul 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: NICE job, John. Looks a lot nicer than my crappy first version, but I guess it got 'er done. I'm glad these online things are working out so well. :)
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Sep 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I call BS. I know plenty of people (including myself) who unknowingly trundled up to Shadow wall intending on their first lead ever and being mightily surprised by what was awaiting. That's a sandbag if I've ever seen it.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Only Way To Fly (5.10c)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Aug 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gosh, I hope it's not permanent. I love that climb.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cerro Romauldo
By: Kristin McNamara When: Mar 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The origins come from a guy named Kevin Knight emailing me about my comments on this site that said something along the lines of the route being mungy and needing more climbers to clean the lichen off. I was chastised for this and told they were dangerous. There ARE folks that survey and watch the growth of plants - just because you're not interested, don't think for a moment that these other people are not. Good stewardship says "tread lightly and carry a stick clip." Sorry, I couldn't resist.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Only Way To Fly (5.10c)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jan 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris has it wrong. The new bolts are supposed to be an entirely different route. You are supposed to bring cams up for that route.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : The Fat Man (5.8)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a one-move wonder, and I wonder why that first bolt exists. Way too close to the ground and the second bolt. It's fairly fun, but requires some route finding and avoiding huge mud patches. It's a nice line. Good first 5.8 lead.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jul 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the anchor reorganization:
I personally think John did a decent job with reorganizing the anchors. Since this area is a popular TR area, esp. for beginners, I can see the argument about the bolts being away from the edge - BUT, the anchors where they are now are closer to what I consider accepted practice for anchors - no runners required, just safety consciousness. An extra set of anchors would help the clusterfuck that occurs there, especially when groups like Poly Escapes bring peo... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jul 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vickie Garagliano sent me this email:
_ I have heard the name "Thin Ice" used for the_ 5.11a/b climb between_ Chimney Crack and Step Aside at Cabrillo's_ Rockland area. The big hole_ on the right is off line and has been referred_ to as a sucker hold._ This information is handed-down and has not_ been confirmed.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Kristin McNamara When: May 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike's right about the sand castle comment.
I think that those developing the area right now would be wise to listen in . . .
What happened in the past DOES set a precedent, but for new routes going up, it certainly does make sense to consider the day and age when putting up NEW routes.
All I'm asking is for a little respect to the FA'sts no matter when it goes up - that route had time, money, and energy put into it, and the style it went up was right for the time that it was created. We're ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Kristin McNamara When: May 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please don't use my comments out of context.
Adding/removing bolts is changing the nature of the rock, not the name. Thin Man could be up for renaming since the character of the line has changed now. I suggest, "Cowardly Man."
Just kidding.
The point, however, is that the problem with bolts is their permanence. There's nothing INHERENTLY wrong with bolting a crack, but there's something to be said for leaving a rock as virginal as possible while still enjoying it. Rocks are aesthetic and, as... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Fields of Fire (5.8)
By: Kristin McNamara When: May 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, guess when I did it four years ago, it was a munge pile. I'll have to go back and fix that. : )
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Wild Western Pinnacles : Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12... (5.11)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Mar 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems to me that the ethics wouldn't allow for bolting = renaming. Just me, though.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Jonah : Photo
By: Kristin McNamara When: Mar 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the "Ha!"
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : 60 Seconds Over Soledad (5.6)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Feb 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I defintely think it's 5.6 if you have good crack technique.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land : Corner Route (5.4)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Feb 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll give it a 5.6 I lead it and I remember it being way stouter than 5.4 should be. But it could be because it is also slippery Cabrillo rock.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Bishop Quarry
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jan 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is cool. Thanks for the survey work.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Bishop Quarry
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jan 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looked into it further, c/o Neil Havlik and the city of San Luis Obispo:
This quarry was once served by a railroad spur is possibly on public land, but there is no legal accessthere. Land in that area was dedicated to the State by the Gnesa family about 12 years ago, and includes all land above the 800 foot elevation. That is roughly the brush line on the mountain in that area, so if you are walking in the grassland, you are likely to be trespassing. This would require some research to determ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jan 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kudos to those of you who make this your first lead. I'm STILL too much of a wuss to lead this thing. That bolt is HIGH!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Hollister Peak
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jan 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: According the city of San Luis Obispo (c/o Neil Havlik):
A property known as the Hollister Peak Ranch was recently acquired by the California Department of fish and Game. The property is not acutally on Hollister Peak but on the valley below, on both sides ofHighway 1 between San Luis Obispo and Morro Bay. The property is about 500 acres, but is largely former pea fields, and a fairly large young avocado orchard, now removed. It does extend up a little onto the northside of Hollister Peak ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves
By: Kristin McNamara When: Jan 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Jody Langford:
About a year or so ago i spoke with Slater's wife about it. She said it was not the Indians, but a very old-school climber that didn't believe in bolts. She said that the climber has since left the area and that she would be thrilled if someone re-bolted it. I also spoke to a FS ranger and they said they didn't believe it was an "Indian Sacred Ground" issue. I was up there a few months ago with Ronnie Miller on Mavericks and the bolts seemed to be in pretty good shape on tha... more >>
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