Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Kris Solem climbing the route, 11-30-08. Photo by ...


Member Since: Apr 2, 2004
Last Visit: Jul 18, 2016
Contact Kristian Solem

Kristian Solem
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,032
Total Points: 362
Last Year: 33
Last 30 Days: 20
49 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kristian Solem been climbing?










Contributions


All 174 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 48 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 18 | Stars 32 | Ratings 13
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Trapper Dome : Trapper Dome, South Face : ... : Photo
By: Kristian Solem When: Jun 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The second bolt is up by the little sort of "S" shaped right facing flake up and slightly left. You're a pitch off the deck when you start the climb, so decking shouldn't be an issue. But if you fall up near the bolt (the hardest move in this section is the step-up to the bolt) you'll probably get launched off the bottom of the slab and crater back into the wall below. The way that thing works is when yer h... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: May 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Mike Jaffe and Herb Laeger had already climbed the right variation, the 5.8 crack which ends on the nice ledge. They went no higher. So, when Herb came back to do The Howling to the top they used the left crack to do something new. Pretty much everyone, Laeger included, prefers the right hand crack and short traverse due to the much better quality climbing.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : The Gorge of Despair : Photo
By: Kristian Solem When: Sep 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Ben, the approach into the gorge is from the top, the back in this photo. Reportedly the big steep slot in the photo has been canyoneered.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Valhalla (5.11a)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jun 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Second Fat Dad re broken ankles. I saw it happen once. A guy came off above the first bolt on P2. On the way down his feet hit the sloping ledge you traverse out to get that bolt. If you fall here it might be best to shove off a bit so as to miss that feature...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : South Face (5.9 PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: Mar 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A small detail. The first recorded route in The Needles (photographs an notes) was Sidewalk Magic on the Magician- a nice climb right of the more recent Black Magic. 1969. Dan Mchale and Joe Brown (not the brit.)

That fall McHale and Becky did the S Face of The Hermit.

The following year Becky, McHale and Mike Heath did the S Face of The Warlock. To their amazement they found a cairn atop the south summit.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jan 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Long pitches work well.

P1: Up to the ledge at the start of the business.

P2: 190 ft. to the ledge on the little tower.

P3: Another long pitch to a belay on a keystone shaped chockstone.

P4: Scramble to the top.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Kristian Solem When: Dec 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: FWIW the FA party called the route 5.8. How times change.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Wizard : Cardiac Arete (AKA Talisman... (5.11 PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: Dec 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Edit to correct info:

The bolted line up the arete by Laeger and Miledi is called Cardiac Arete. Two pitches, 5.10b and 5.11. "Ends where the holds run out" (Herb)

Two 50M raps.

FYI: I've chatted with Laeger about this climb a couple times. He thinks that somehow it got named twice. That is, Talisman and Cardiac Arete are the same climb.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Voyager Rock : Eve of Destruction (5.10d)
By: Kristian Solem When: Nov 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The name "Eve of destruction" refers to Eve Laeger, who did the first lead. As was mentioned, the crack gets dirty so we aided it first to clean it. The water streak and flake to the right is "Cast of Characters" - 5.10 or 5.11+ depending on how you choose to finish. Which ever way you go the top is hard to read.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Pizzazz (5.10- PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jul 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Double ropes allow the leader to place good gear on the back side of the chimney giving excellent protection for the move from the chimney onto the face into the crack.

I think this is a great short climb, but not for everyone.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Ankles Away (5.11+ PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jul 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't see this climb - which I have done several times - as crossing the line into 5.12. That said it's about as hard as that kind of 5.11 can get.

It's just me, but I can't see the advantage of doing it in one long pitch. You have less freedom to move well with all that rope, the belay ledge is as good as they get, and you can't swing leads with your partner.

All in it's a Needles classic, and a bit unique for the area.

The biggest piece you need is a 1 inch cam. A few smaller TCU's are us... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: So yesterday this route claims another with major rockfall.

I have an idea. If you are looking for death defying stunts on loose rock with a track record of killing and maiming people, go to the Canadian Rockies, or the Devil's Crags in the Sierra; someplace where you know what the game is and you take your chances with your eyes wide open.

All this talk about Sahara Terror being such a great route is hogwash. A climb like this at a local crag should be avoided like poison.

IMO...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Innersanctum (5.9)
By: Kristian Solem When: Dec 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the correction Steve, and the email. My comment was based on what I thought was 100% reliable info. Laeger placed the bolt - they belayed there - and I think he believed the route was unclimbed at that time.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10b/c)
By: Kristian Solem When: Dec 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding rockfall, when I did it in Sept., there was a lot of fresh scarring surrounding the belay at the top of P3. Was this from cleaning on the FA? Would have had to come from near the top of the route to hit there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Games Without Frontiers (5.13a)
By: Kristian Solem When: Nov 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Susan, The best of all possible worlds is to lead on the doubles with two belayers, one for each cord. The downside is that your beer expenses double...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Games Without Frontiers (5.13a)
By: Kristian Solem When: Nov 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: " ...but if it breaks while you're pulling slack to clip you will probably deck..."

This is why I used double ropes. Assuming your belayer is up to speed with the system you can pull slack on one cord to clip while still being properly belayed on the other.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10b/c)
By: Kristian Solem When: Oct 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route. That little boulder problem in the sky which kicks off P4 is a real gem. Next time I must do the variation finish. First time I had to stay on the arete 'cause it is so cool.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Kristian Solem When: Oct 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Did the first 5 pitches of this one day before yesterday. Yes to all the props above. Super fun well protected climbing. Also did 3 hour arete and silver streak. All great fun.

Now guys, about the ratings...

Hair Lip at Suicide is a consensus 10a. On The Road on Tahquitz is 10c, and a much harder lead than JFMR. If P3 of JFMR were in Idyllwild it would likely be graded 10a as well, maybe 10b but that's it. Sorry but yer not as Old Skool as you think if you are serious about 10d. Of course the ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Trapper Dome : Trapper Dome, South Face : ... : Carson-Kodas Arete (5.11b R)
By: Kristian Solem When: Apr 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure how this climb got sorted onto the "Sex Wall" page, that is not where it is. Sex Wall is on the upper east side of Trapper Dome, this route is on the south west arete. FWIW...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Toxic Waltz (5.12a PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: Oct 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I did this one with Hidetaka Suzuki bitd. Well actually he did it, second try. It did me, I would have had to come back a few times probably (which I didn't.)

Back then folks were calling it 5.13. Hidetaka did not suggest a downgrading. I remember after his send he came down and lit up a smoke, looked me in the eye and said "Kris, sometimes I think I am a pretty bold climber."

I was nursing a nasty swollen ankle from the flyer I took on my second try, and could not disagree.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Ghostbumps (5.10b)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jul 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Josh did you guys actually get a clean TR on the third pitch up there?

I would suppose that to be giving it a grade you had to have, right?

Juss' curious...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Planet Waves (5.11c PG13)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jul 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The anchor bolts at the top of P1 and the protection bolts on P2 are now upgraded to stainless 5 piece powers. The lead bolts are 3/8" x 3" and the anchor is one 3/8" and one 1/2". Have fun!!

Also Shadows in the Rain, the face climb to the right of Imaginary Voyage has new bolts.

Special thanks to Levy, without whose hard work this would not have happenned. And to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for the materials.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Church Domes : Rock of Ages : Liquid Jesus (5.11a)
By: Kristian Solem When: Jun 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Solid for 5.11c. About 7 bolts.

I think the crux is not the reach move down low, but rather some thin technical moves through the dark band about halfway up.

Fun moves on fine rock.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Kristian Solem When: May 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Eric - FYI Bob Kamp's contemporaneous notes from the FA have him placing the first bolt and Herb Laeger the second. On the first day,7-9-78, they ran out of time and traversed to Inner Sanctum to escape from about P3. Came back 7-15-78 and did the whole line.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Innersanctum (5.9)
By: Kristian Solem When: May 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt was placed by Herb Laeger in 1976. His personal diaries list the FA of Inner Sanctum ("Named after an old television horror serial") as Herb Laeger, Mike Jaffe, Eve Uiga 12 July 1976. They graded it 5.8 at the time. On this ascent the first belay was at the bolt with some gear too.

Becky et al may have climbed it earlier but the bolt and route name came from the 76 ascent. It is also possible, even likely that Becky's group climbed a different line altogether. Many of the early Needles... more >>


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!