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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 26, 2003
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Point Rank: # 894
Total Points: 714
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kreighton Bieger been climbing?










Contributions


All 180 | Routes 32 | Areas 8 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts | Stars 35 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : The Memory of Trees (5.9)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Jun 6, 2002

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Comments: As of 6/5/02 this route has nine bolts, though only six are easily visible from the ground. Two long draws for the bolts below the roofs will prevent rope drag at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Little Stevie's Favorite He... (5.11a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 21, 2002

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Comments: I should point out that my estimation of the grade of this and "unknown 2" are just that - my own estimates. I based this grade on how it felt to lead it and my wife's efforts to follow it. Could be anywhere from 10b to 11d (snicker).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 21, 2002

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Comments: This is a fantastic route! It's like a hidden Flatiron! Of course, as the photos indicate, I could generally only see 100 feet at a time, but it was still a terrific outing.

I did think the downclimb had some of the hardest moves of the route, so consider that if 5.3-5.4 downclimbing is not your strong suit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Ruff Roof (5.11d)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: What a varied route! Steep slab climbing, slopers, crimps and a strenuous roof - all in 90 feet!

The scramble to the first bolt is fourth class, but beware of loose rock - my rope dislodged a pretty hefty place from the junk. This route is well bolted, pumpy and interesting all the way to the chains.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Sofa Kingdom (5.10)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: I concur with Ray's comment. Did this route today and it felt like 5.9 for the Canyon - no harder. The bolts might be a bit reachy for the more vertically challenged, but the climbing is not 5.10. Compared to Eldo, this is probably 5.7.

Great route though! Beware of loose rock and the potential for a nasty tumble getting to the first bolt!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Get Your Dieck Off My Barny... (5.10a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: Shoot! I thought you looked like Ray Snead! I was there with my wife today, as you were leaving. We did all the routes here. This is a good one. #1 Metolius is good before the slab moves, which are, as Ray said, lots of fun (if brief.)

The route to the left of this one appears to be abandoned -anyone have any info?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 19, 2002

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Comments: There are definitely other routes in that area - to the right of Ruff Roof (easily identified) there are at least five more lines, although the leftmost of that bunch appears to be unfinished.

If anyone can submit the names of these routes, I have photos and descriptions of them. Not sure about FA info, though. I'd put them at 10a/b, 11a/b, 12?(done directly), 9, not including the unfinished line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 18, 2002

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Comments: Did Calypso as one long 60m pitch today with no problems and no hanging belay, and rope to spare. Started left (the easy start), lots of long runners, and didn't place any gear to the left at the first roof/corner. A blue Alien placed near the right side of the roof with a long sling will get you a pretty straight rope line. Skip the bolts, fire right up the second pitch crack and you should arrive at the first big ledge with some rope to spare.

I don't know if I could have made it 10 feet hig... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Morning Sun Wall : Pointillist (5.10c/d)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 6, 2002

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Comments: The bottom of this route has a fair amount of loose rock - I kicked off a noggin' splitting sized cobble with one good whack of my heel (after rattling it nearly out with my hand). Beware.

Higher up, the route could use an extra bolt or two, but the crack might take a small to mid sized cam or nut.

The hueco out left to which Darin refers is actually used on the route Renaissance, and will certainly seem off route to anyone given over to respecting even the basic nature of 'eliminate' climbing... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: May 6, 2002

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Comments: I didn't find the roof to be so much reachy as pumpy. However, exiting to the anchors at the end of P1 felt reachy. I ended up with some kind of stem/smear/thrash thing to exit left. That felt hard, like 11 a/b, but not in a fun way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Sunstar (5.9 R)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Apr 29, 2002

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Comments: Whether this route deserves one, two or three stars may be beside the point, because it will and maybe should continue to have limited mass appeal.

Save for the first pitch, which is very nice, the rock on the rest of the route ranges from fractured and loose to a veritable minefield of loose and broken blocks. Routefinding is difficult, and the protection is sparse and difficult to place on the last two pitches.

That said, and as Tony mentioned, the route achieves spectacular position and i... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Slender Fungus (5.10c)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Apr 8, 2002

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Comments: I think the Knapp book says this is 11c for the entire route. I don't know if it's that hard, but it definitely felt harder than 10d on the second part. I think more like 11a/b. Done as one long lead, it's pretty pumpy.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The Raven (5.9+)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Apr 8, 2002

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Comments: Does anyone know anything about the route that goes right from the third bolt of The Raven? It doesn't appear to be in the Cactus Cliff book.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Amiga (5.10b/c)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Mar 18, 2002

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Comments: Whoops, meant to give this one-star. It's not that bad, but it seems like it could use another bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Red Wall aka Raptors in Cel... (5.9+)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Dec 13, 2001

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Comments: I'd forgotten about that! The first time I went up there, probably November '94 or so, a woman clued us into the name, as you said, "Raptors and Cellophane". "Ya know, like birds and plastic", she said.

She and we also called it 'stiff 5.8'. About two years later, I went back and two guys were finishing up TRing it and just for fun I asked the grade and name. Didn't know the name, but they informed me that it went at 5.12. I still say it is 9+ or 10a tops.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Nov 26, 2001

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Comments: Ben, I've been waiting for someone to comment...You know, I was climbing with Lang, what can I say. Someone had to carry it... Sadly, I only placed 3 pieces on the pitch. We did this again on 11/24, so I think I could adequately pare down the rack now.

Oh, the real answer? I'm a weiner!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Nov 19, 2001

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Comments: It's interesting to me that this only got two stars. For Eldo, and the routes I've done, I'd give it three stars. Rossiter calls it 'Top Ten' and it is in my top ten, certainly when pitted against other routes at the grade. The climbing is spicy, sustained for the grade (5.6-5.7), and there is virtually no loose rock.

One comment about the #3 Camalot placement - it is on the leader's right while traversing left, so it would be very easy to miss. Missing this piece not only means your seco... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Crynoid Corner (5.7)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: Just because the bolts are there is it no longer possible to trad lead it? You could bring a rack down and lead at least six routes under 5.10b at Shelf that I can think of off the top of my head. Check out Castrator and Barney on Freeform Wall. There is Bat (shit) crack at the Menses Prow area, and another open book corner on the other side of CA Ethics pinnacle there. Add this one and then a good warmup 9+ thing we did at the Bank last time and that's a pretty full day. Have at it.

The more I... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: George,

Can you do two single rope raps to the ground? I've only been up there once and got rained on, but it appeared that maybe you could rap from the top back down to the hanging rap (at the end of the traverse), and then rap to the ground from there. Is that possible?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Nov 8, 2001

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Comments: This can easily be led as one pitch with a 55 meter rope, probably shorter; I don't recall exactly how much rope was left. There will likely be some character-building drag at the top though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Oct 31, 2001

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Comments: Tony, I believe we've met, but you probably don't remember (Hudon slideshow). In any case it is beside the point since, as far as I can tell, no one is talking shit about the route. Specifically it seems that they're talking shit about how you decided to rate the seriousness of the climb.

Your description seems to imply that the gear is good so long as one is 'solid at the grade'. That is odd and illogical since, last time I checked, gear placements and their quality didn't depend on the climb... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Oct 23, 2001

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Comments: Eric,...seriously, you must have been off route. The pro isn't too good, but the first pitch is fairly graded at no harder than 5.7, but anyone who likes good gear and better climbing should start with Great Zot.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Quits (5.9+)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: My bad, I got a little anxious and put the route up before we were clear on which finish we'd done.

P3 has only two options - the obvious left leaning crack on the outside of the flake/block is the regular finish to Quits and allegedly goes at 9+ or so. The Hollerith Exit is located between the flake and the block and follows a short but sweet fist crack up in a bit of a squeeze job to the top of the block. This option is '5.8', but might feel harder, depending on who you ask and how macho you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Sep 19, 2001

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Comments: I may be way out of line even commenting here, but this is such an interesting read that I can't resist. I'm someone who has no illusions whatsoever about leading The Lion, hell, I'd be lucky to get it together for something like Blackwalk someday. Maybe it is a lifetime in sports of many kinds, all requiring different levels of mental and physical committment, or maybe I just love the endless possibilities climbing offers, but either way I believe that routes like The Lion and similar 'headpoin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : South Face (5.9+)
By: Kreighton Bieger When: Aug 14, 2001

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Comments: Now, Mr. Lang, I'm no city slicker, but I know my way around a brain teaser. Are you tellin' me that 'with a simian wingspan' the move is 5.9, and for shorter folks, who can't reach across to the good left edge, it is...5.9? C'mon now, you're a dodgy coot! Well, it'll get upgraded soon, good thing I led it while it was still 5.9. 5.10 is hard.

Am I back to budding? nuts.


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