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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Mozambique (5.12a)
By: kip henrie When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Seriously overhanging with reachy buff moves. The last half is just 500 grain sandpaper. Hands and rope will take a beating. The toughest part is going to the small seam with your right hand at about the 4th bolt then at the 6th bolt going up to a sloper after the really good horn. Big moves. Cleaning is tough. Very fun for the overhanging ape moves needed.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : When You’re Feeling Siniste... (5.11d)
By: kip henrie When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good continuous line that is longer than its neighbors. The lower part overhangs with a fun right hand side pull move. The upper part is just cool because the rock is peculiar but solid.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Moment of Decay (5.11d)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belayers should wear a helmut on this choss fest. I just about got my head taken off when a large rock came off. Missed me by 4 feet and my helmut is at Petzl being fixed! This route looked tough with some real twister movement. And one other thing, you do get a big rest on it after the real desperate part...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Rainbird (5.11d)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fine route. The first 4 bolts is the crux. The feet are definitely the trickiest part, trust em and move is a good thot. The rest has some big holds with big moves with a scratchy sloper over the 4th bolt. I recommend hanging a long draw on the fourth to make that clip a bit easier. Hang in there and enjoy the sharp rock above. Ouch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Beetlejuice (5.11c)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic area on cold days. This wall holds warmth and altitude. At the first jug seam there were literally hundreds of lady bugs hiding and warming. Gotta move fast thru the first 3-4 clips. Powerful moves with sketchy feet is the name of the game here. Once you get higher the holds get better with some rests. Definitely pumpy and very fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Dancing With Feral Debutant... (5.9)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When you get on these routes be prepared to take your time. You might want to take a small pack with water, descent shoes and a headlamp. I've always come down in the dark! It just takes longer than you think. The last pitch on this one is just simply awesome.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Oscar the Grouch (5.10d)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did the first pitch and am yearning to do the second. I love how long this climb is. For me the hardest part was up in the orange rock with side pulls and crummy feet. Definitely worth a jaunt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is high alpine climbing at its best. Simply just fun with committing moves and crazy exposure. I want to get high all over again. The ending roofs to a pocket is exhilerating.
TIE a knot at the of your rope!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is long! It has a lot of variety with stemming, booking, facing and lunging. Nice work Perin on bolt placements, cleaning and imagining. Clap clap clap!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area
By: kip henrie When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got my first taste of Galaxy just recently. This is a must go-to scene. The trek is worth it plus its just great exercise. Real kudos to all the busy bees who made this area possible. Just working the trail must have been a labor of love. The routes are long and the view breath taking. Thanks to all your hard work, you have spoiled us climbers.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Wind Walker (5.11c)
By: kip henrie When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: At this altitude you will be needing oxygen when you finish Wind Walker. The upper head wall is all the technical business. Good positive crimpers with small feet will get you thru it. There is a nice larger rail that you can shake out a bit 1/2 up. Keep your head and keep moving and you'll make it.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Forgotten Warrior (5.11c)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an awesome climb. The first smaller roof requires moving on hand sized side pulls while moving your feet to the right position for the lunge to a better hold by the second bolt. Once you get there you move up thru some creases, strenuously. The next huge triangular roof is very fun and powerful. Move up right of the roof bolt to a rail and stretch your leg out and rock over on it while going for the upper crimp. Mantle up with your right arm, smear the left leg and go for the bigger hold... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Old School (5.10b)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock on this climb is spackled with tiny sharp edges that can really give great friction when you need to smear. The lower pitch has several small roofs with juggy moves. The upper pitch turns personality with edges on the blackish bizarre rock. There are some long stretch moves that are exhilerating. Amazing route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows : Beamer's Claw (5.10b)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a highly unusual climb. After a challenging no feet grunt to the first bolt you traverse right using a huge crack at your knees with your feet on a ramp. You scoot up the crack balancing up the best you can then start to face climb up higher. I really liked it. Again, the sliperryosity of the rock brings a whole new dimension to AF climbing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Cougar Narrows : Pig Charmer (5.10a)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think you are a 10a climber? Ha, get on this thing. The climbs on this wall are tricky and are hard to onsite. You really have to climb slow and thotful. If you rush it you are done for. Delicate balancy son-of-a-guns I tell ya. Pig Charmer will test your footwork to a tee. These are not upper body climbs.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Gemini (5.11c)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a superb climb with very peculiar moves that is unlike other AF climbs. Take your time and you'll figure it out.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Eye Opener (5.10b)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This consists of small holds and technical climbing. Feet are key and balancy. Well protected to practice your crimping and footwork.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Dag Nasty (5.10d)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is my favorite 10d in AF. It has so many great features that it is a blast to climb and its long! The Visionary Wall setting is a very beautiful area to climb and in the shade. Thanks to the Visionaries who developed this area. The second bolt is definitely the crux with a barn door you get to navigate.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: kip henrie When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We just did this with my 14 year old budding climber son in a 3 man assault. The first pitch still needs some cleaning up as i took a fall taking off a nice sized hold. The first pitch has a balancy bulge to circumnavigate. The 2nd and 3rd pitch is pure joy - great rock and huge holds make for exposed well protected climbing. If you link these 2 routes you'll have more rope drag. If you have the time i'd not link them. When you summit you really have a sense of accomplishment. My son loved it an... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Solitary Misdemeanors : Full Nelson (5.9)
By: kip henrie When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try this climb without going into the more obvious bigger holds to the right thru the first 2 bolts and it'll be a tougher endeavor. Get to the roof then to a more technical crux on crimpers then you're home free. Quality route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Solitary Misdemeanors : Half Leno (5.8)
By: kip henrie When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock here is very grippy and the climb has some fun movement. Its technical then lets up to some jugs then a nice roof, then the top blanks out a bit so you can use your brain. overall a thoughtful climb. thanks perin for developing this area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: kip henrie When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has become one of my favs in AF. This climb has 2 distinct sections. The lower overhanging part gets the arms burning with hard moves in between good holds, the footwork (if you can find any feet) is the real puzzler. The lower part crux is at the 4th bolt. After you get past the pump on the lower half you are rewarded with a no hands rest. The upper half crux is getting past the large roof (i wont tell you how, you get to figure it out). Then you get to a jug and move left to some crimpers... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Tap Wall : Big Bottom (5.11c)
By: kip henrie When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has some huge holds in between a very obvious crux. Its well protected so go for it. The upper part has a smaller crux with crimps.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Ice : Donorcicle (WI5) : Photo
By: kip henrie When: Jun 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: sweet pic. john -kip
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Rush Hour (5.11b)
By: kip henrie When: Jun 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I very much enjoyed this climb. it has 2 parts. the first is sequential and technical. with a big move off a crimper. rest then go on up more typical division type climbing. the top is also taxing and pumpy. a fine endeavor.
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