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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Honeycomb Chimney (5.9)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The obvious has been alluded to but perhaps I can get it out bluntly:
this route features two good pitches, the rest is either unmemorable or unconsolidated rockslide scrambling. The first pitch is garbage rock, and you'll see bail slings at the first ledge left by those that thought better. A crunchy but not too bad pitch leads to the first scrambling pitch. "I thought we were supposed to be rock climbing up here!" was the comment from my partner. Lots of opportunity to knock loose stuff off on... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R)
By: Killis Howard When: Mar 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Low bolt makes sense, but I'm still skipping it when I go back to lead. Respect to the boys who put it up, too bad history's being blurred, if not rewritten. Climbing above the gear's becoming a lost art around here...On a positive note, the second pitch is MONEY. Enjoy. Found plentiful gear 8 ft from the belay. Would call the first pitch a "soft" R if you skip the bolt. Not really staring death in the eye on this one, if you catch me drift.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pine Nuts (5.10b)
By: Killis Howard When: Mar 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has had an 'R' rating at some point in the guidy-books. Not so. Solid pro, both pitches. 1st has some scrambling to get to first placement, nowhere near difficult.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : OB Button (5.10b)
By: Killis Howard When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: On behalf of the Las Vegas Climber's Liason Council, I replaced the crusty, rotten slings with a hole in them at the anchors. Enjoy the brand new slings when you get there.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : OB Button (5.10b)
By: Killis Howard When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good thing to know about both these routes is to keep an eye out for the anchors after pulling the roof. My buddy was leading OB Fist (close enough for him to snag my #4 before I headed through the roof) beside me, and he ended up in slabby, no-holds, chossville nowheresland until herculean fighting the rope drag and shite for pro got him over to the crack system holding the fixed nut anchors. There is a second pitch above, but it looked really short-40 feet short. Also looked piss easy,... more >>
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Location: New Red Rock guidebook - AV...
By: Killis Howard When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jerry did a really nice job. This book should set the new standard for guidebooks in the area. The only thing missing in my opinion is the R and X ratings. The seriousness of some of these routes needs to be represented in the grade itself.
Lots of attention to detail, great photos, I've found a few errors, but they're tiny, nothing compared to previous books. Overall a great addition, obscure routes are very well represented, and much clearer and simpler to use than its predecessors.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Allen's Ridge Area : Trench Warfare (5.12+)
By: Killis Howard When: Aug 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Directions by Brian from SLC:
If you can see Super Slab, directly across the canyon from the park and ride lot (and/or slightly up canyon from the electronic sign at the bottom, which is kinda straight across from the Scruffy Band, and Super Slab is slightly up and left of Scruffy Band), then, look to the left. You'll pass a gully, then hit "Hanging Slab" as the next slabish rock left of that gully. Hanging Slab has a hut cut out in it, and the boulder that slid out of the cut out is what forms ... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags
By: Killis Howard When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beautiful place to climb, easy access from Las Vegas, and solid, quality limestone. I greatly enjoyed myself here. Both Kelly's and Black and Tan seem to be getting close to overbolted right now-it would be nice if Mr Goss and his crew would try to make sure not to place bolts that you can reach and clip from other routes beside. At one or two spots on Kelly's I could touch one with each hand and one with my foot-maybe the routes would benefit from not being so crammed.
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Imagination Wall : Left Wall
By: Killis Howard When: Aug 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid climbing, worth the walk past the trash and fixed rope*S* from someone's "project"-look for botched adhesive sealant that looks like it was used to attempt to "glue in" a wedge bolt. Niiiiiiice. There'll be a line to get on THAT one.
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Imagination Wall : Left Wall : unknown (5.8)
By: Killis Howard When: Aug 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a lot of fun and the best easy climb on the wall I've done so far. It should be mentioned that there is a botched alternate start just to the left that is only 2 bolts long, and that the crux is low on the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.6)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would disagree with John about the rappel-this is the quickest and most safe descent from the solar slab ledge that I know of, and I've done every route on the wall that's in the guidebook. I've descended the Solar Slab Gully by rappel at least three times (I may be blocking out other times-*find a happy place!*) and find it complex, sketchy to find and traverse to certain anchors on the way down, and Johnny Vegas offers a quick, safe solution. A short (50 ft) rap from the boulder, a 120' expo... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Stirling Moss (5.10 R)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Karsten, you may be the first person in history to think that I *underdescribed* anything-but John's right on the money. Despite the other postings on this site, there are really two striking lines on this cliff-the logical thin, varied corner of Soylent on the left and the bolt-in-the-middle-of-nowheresville 20something feet up that: Sterling. If you're standing under the cliff; it's unmistakable. Also, if you're looking at John's beta photo, notice the diagonaling crack 2/3 of the wa... more >>
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Mummy (5.5 PG13)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route got a 5.5 in the guidebooks I have! Grade aside, a wonderful route on a spring day. Climbed this route solo on a spring day with a brand new pair of shoes, worn out jeans, and the sun on my back to keep me company. My best day of climbing in my life was an afternoon solo linkup of the Daddy, the Mummy (onsight solo), and the Prow (onsight solo). The exposure was vast, the people I met along the way friendly, and the climbing movement natural, pure, and unmarred by unnecessar... more >>
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Location: VA : Old Rag
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Old Rag is a jewel in the rough. If you like granite, here's a quiet little piece of Joshua Tree tucked away in the hills of Virginia. This area is hard to beat if you like trad routes on good rock and don't want to drive to the New and fight the crowds from NoVa (Northern Virginia) on the weekends. Fall and Spring are great; summer is something you are better off not finding out for yourself-NEVER COME HERE IN SUMMER! Black flies, Stinging nettle FORESTS taller than you and thicker th... more >>
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Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael shook up this little sewing circle of ours and made us question our basics again. Here's hoping that he's going to make it back to his family and have a rollicking good tale to tell.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is just my two cents: the 10d pitch felt like 5.9 max; I just stepped over Meo's head and laybacked it. There was literally maybe 5 5.9 moves in a row right off the belay, well protected by a new C4 camalot (old 4.5) on slick, pretty chocolate varnish with adequate feet. Any 5.9 gym climber shouldn't have ANY trouble laybacking these moves. From there on I maybe placed two or three more pieces until reaching the belay ledge shared by Unfinished. The crux for me was the third pitch... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Bird Crack (5.10d)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rotten. Sketch gear; my bro led it and fell for the first time on brass. It held, but just nasty rock, climbing was inaesthetic, not really sure what value this one has other than a funny story for Paul.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Hard Case (5.9)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, it's 9+, crux protects with .4 camalot, and if it's so fun, why only 1.5 stars? I give it classic status-the only reason anyone legitimately walks up to this cliff, so let's hear it for hard case!
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Location: NV : Water World : The Big Blue (5.8)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two routes on the far right of this wall, Ancient Seabed and Big Blue, are both listed as 5.10c in the guidebook. My compadre Danger Dragon insisted that they felt more like 5.9, I thought more like 5.7. I split the difference; 5.8 seemed about right to me. They're both fun routes either way, and the best warmups at the cliff!
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Location: NV : Water World : Ancient Seabed (5.8)
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two routes on the far right of this wall, Ancient Seabed and Big Blue, are both listed as 5.10c in the guidebook. My compadre Danger Dragon insisted that they felt more like 5.9, I thought more like 5.7. I split the difference; 5.8 seemed about right to me. They're both fun routes either way, and the best warmups at the cliff!
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Location: NV : Water World
By: Killis Howard When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Waterworld has some of the nicest moderate limestone climbing around. In this wacky world of chipped desperates, this beautiful slot canyon is a breath of fresh air and a great place to enjoy some desert solitude. The mining situation has created some hazardous and labrynthine methods of reaching this area that none of the guidebooks cover effectively; Las Vegas is an ever-changing landscape as the houses creep up against the mountains. I am trying to get a best-case scenario map for t... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: Killis Howard When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has its own title for me...worst route I've ever led! Weather deteriorated into wind and rain, making 5.8 seem questionable, the bolts were two outstanding examples of Todd Swain's utter disregard for the hot climber chicks he might be putting in traction by his shoddy engineering and mishmash of unsafe bolts-what a waste of vastly cute girls, Todd. I wouldn't wish the bolts on this on the guys who are still chipping limestone around here-they're just terrible. If you're leading this,... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag
By: Killis Howard When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Red Spring parking is fine unless you're planning to hang around until/after sundown. At that point, they can ticket/lock the gate and that might not help you out too much. For later sessions at calico, the traditional corner parking is better.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Mothers of Invention (5.10c)
By: Killis Howard When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this route. Rotten, loose, safely bolted, positive, tricky...enjoy it. Be gentle, though-these holds won't be there forever.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Mom & Apple Pie (5.9)
By: Killis Howard When: Jun 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet route at 5.10a. Well worth the walk up, bring some gear for mother's day 10 feet right and make an evening of it. Thinnnnnn....
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