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View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH


Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Keyan P


Point Rank: # 4,172
Total Points: 96
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 21
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 276 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvments | Comments 31 | Posts 85 | Stars 124 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Improbable Problem

V7 7A+ (1)

Boulder

VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders

Jul 20, 2014

Private Property

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (11)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton

Sep 20, 2011

Harvest Moon

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R (12)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'

VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton

Nov 11, 2010

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The legendary Bill Patton moving off the crux left hand sloper

The legendary Bill Patton moving off the crux left hand sloper

VT : Smugglers Notch : ... : The Improbable Problem (V7)

Jul 20, 2014

View of the entire line.

View of the entire line.

VT : Smugglers Notch : ... : Tome's Roof (V6-7)

Jul 20, 2014

View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

Keyan P : Photos

Jul 3, 2012

Upper West Topo <br />Rt 5 a.k.a Corkscrew <br />Rt 12 a.k.a Captain's Crack <br />Rt 17 a.k.a The Bookend <br />Rt 19 a.k.a Erica's Ass Crack

Upper West Topo Rt 5 a.k.a Corkscrew Rt 12 a.k.a Captain's Crack Rt 17 a.k.a The Bookend Rt 19 a.k.a Erica's Ass Crack

VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton

Sep 20, 2011

Top portion of Chicken by the Sea

Top portion of Chicken by the Sea

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Chicken of the Sea (5.9)

Sep 7, 2011

Old Town, Acadia Nat'l Park

Old Town, Acadia Nat'l Park

Keyan P : Photos

Sep 7, 2011

Otter Cliffs Topo

Otter Cliffs Topo

ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs

Aug 21, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Smugglers Notch
By: Keyan P When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : The Egg : Chemical (V9+)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Has the consensus grade changed since the break?


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: As of yesterday the bolt just after the crux (next to the first massive jug rest, bolt number 4 I think) does not have its hanger attached, after looking around a bit I found it laying on the big slab at the start of the climb. It was clear that it was placed there by someone because the washer was present also. I wasn't sure why it was removed so I did not attempt to put it back on.

On a related note, several of the hangars on Fresh Meat are very very loose, including the last bolt with prote... more >>


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Dojo (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This problem has been climbed previously (you can tell from all the chalk on the rail) and is actually called "Dojo". The stand start from the rail is V4, the sit goes at V8 and starts just down and right of the rail on bad sidepulls and adds one very big (and hard) deadpoint move to the rail. You can actually see the chalked up holds for the sit start in the photo above.

Not sure about the FA, maybe someone else can chime in.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Keyan P When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I'm having trouble finding this, does anyone have better directions?


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : The Wave (5.5)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I did not find any bolts, but there are two good trees to set up a toprope from. A fun route with a nice view up top. Watch out for broken glass though, it is all over the route!


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 there are still a few bolts (in good condition) to lead the route. There is also a two bolt anchor (poor condition).


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Standard Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this route has one good bolt at the anchor and a good crack for pro to set up the toprope. I didn't have any gear with me, but I'm guessing it could take anywhere from a #0.5-#1 Camalot.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Cool Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this has two bolts (in good condition) for an anchor, although actually getting to the bolts requires some dicey unroped traversing at the top of the cliff.


Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Hardest Button to Button (V9)
By: Keyan P When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Just went by the Button Boulder today and a medium-sized tree has fallen directly in front of the steep side. This makes it impossible to climb Hardest Button or Work Horse. I am no longer local or else I would try to remove it. If you find yourself headed out there, be sure to bring an axe.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : Boomerang (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I was under the impression that this problem started with a large sideways dyno to the left followed by a heel hook. The climber in the photo is definitely doing something else. Is the way I am thinking a variation?


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...


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