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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: Kevin Stricker When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry but that isn't Wunsch's, it's the 5.9 OW variation to Center Route.
Wunsch's is the crack visible to the left, with the 5.9 Fenders corner continuing straight up where the standard start steps left to Breashear's after 20 feet.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Rising Crescendo (5.11c/d R)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve, your description leaves out the whole start of the route. The route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney, then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first par... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Kevin Stricker When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Todd,
Thanks for the history lesson, it is good to hear the AC is trying to help out. I guess I just never hear of any of their attempts in the Platte. I appreciate that they do help in more popular areas, but it would seem that an area like the Spires with some very historical routes (Bishops Crack, Ellingwood Chimney, and Wunsch's Dihedral) that we would hear more about their efforts. Can you give us any details of their involvement in attempting to get access back into Sphinx or Squa... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Kevin Stricker When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris,
Good job defending your friends at the Access Fund. If you had read Ken's post more closely you would realize his comments were directed at Jeffco Open Space, not the Access Fund.
Could you enlighten us with information on any traditional crags on the Front Range (or Colorado even) that the Access Fund has helped preserve access to? I too am disillusioned by their lack of local involvement. Can you imagine the entire Eldorado Canyon being closed for 5 months for the possibility of ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: Kevin Stricker When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Jason, I wanted to credit Fremont Shields for getting the ball rolling on the Snake Buttress replacement, which was done in 2007. He replaced the bolts on Rue Boy and the first pitch of Hodge Podge. Also thanks to Dave Russell for helping with logistics, and especially to the ASCA who provided all the hardware.
Snake Buttress is a fun place to climb, but be considerate of the private property in the area and don't park on the closed mining road.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow Larry, that's impressive. The short little thin crack above the amazing "bivy" ledge must have been exciting, I guess it is called the third pitch.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Etive Slabs
By: Kevin Stricker When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally I do not think we should be posting any areas that are on private property without knowing if access is allowed by the homeowners. While it is educational from a historical perspective, it is not worth the potential negative impacts.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The challenge with rebolting on Wigwam is that it is in Lost Creek Wilderness, so no power drills allowed. Also there is not an obvious easy way to get down to these anchors from above due to the summit roofs. If someone is interested in the undertaking, email me and I can set you up with some ASCA bolts and hangers, although the 12mm Triplex I usually use take 30+ minutes each to hand drill in granite.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: Kevin Stricker When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hike uphill does suck at the end of the day, although it does provide some extra training. Slim, from the closed road you neither have to cross the Lost Creek land or the river.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: Kevin Stricker When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have you guys approached from the closed road about 1/2 way between Goose Creek and the front side (closed) road accessing BRCM? I would think this would be the most direct approach to the Infidel as it seems to be the fastest way to get to Sunshine Dome.
As for your bolt comment Jay, I wouldn't think of adding any bolts to the Infidel. I might put up a new harder line though...bolted on lead of course....if I find something worthy.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Kevin Stricker When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is the Field's Chimney not the North Chimney you are heading for. Find any buried treasure?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D7 (5.11)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a new 2 bolt anchor 10 feet left of the D7 anchor on Almost Table Ledge. The top D7 rap was often the site of stuck ropes, and there are some large unstable blocks right under the anchor. I drilled the new anchor (two 50mm SS Triplex bolts with quicklinks and rap rings) and removed one of the old bolts, leaving a bolt and fixed pin on the old anchor. I will remove the other bolt and the swanged cable from the pin as well as patch the old holes later this summer.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a new 2 bolt anchor 10 feet left of the D7 anchor on Almost Table Ledge. The top D7 rap was often the site of stuck ropes, and there are some large unstable blocks right under the anchor. I drilled the new anchor (two 50mm SS Triplex bolts with quicklinks and rap rings)and removed one of the old bolts, leaving a bolt and fixed pin on the old anchor. I will remove the other bolt and the swanged cable from the pin as well as patch the old holes later this summer.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim,
Send me a line if you want a partner for this one. Maybe we could replace the few bolts at the same time? Don't know if you are into that sort of thing.
P.S. why are we talking about the Infidel in the Rainy Day Rock area?
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Storm (5.12)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route ends with Starlight, you just follow the jugs left after the crux.
I disagree about the crux, my partner cruised it with a high right heelhook. As I can't get the heelhook (too unbalanced at 6'2") I have to make the reach from a small left undercling which is a much more powerful move.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Manta ray flake is safe.....it seems to look worse than it is. It get's dyno'ed for pretty regularly.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A large undercling below the second bolt came off today and hit my belayer in the chest. Probably did not change the grade, but beware loose rock on this pitch.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Stricker When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you say ripped!!!!!
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Not Even (5.12+)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route would be a classic if not for the hard to clip crux bolt and almost impossible crux slab moves.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : The Penetrators (5.12 PG13)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Four bolts and some medium stoppers protect this route nicely. More aptly named the "Punisher" if climbed on a warm day.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11-)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is the Fender Route (edit: Dekkers Route)...mid 11, thinner and dirtier than Whimsical but still a fun outing.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle
By: Kevin Stricker When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R) : Photo
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say the possibility of cutting your rope on the sharp edge of said flake getting to the first bolt on P.4 might contribute as well.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Wear Cattle (5.9+)
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It pulls the roof on the right, same as Standard Route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Kevin Stricker When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9J stays open as there are residents at the end of the road that keep it plowed. You are going to get into some snow on the trail though.
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