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Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags : South Park Slabs : South Park The Movie (5.8 R)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Jaaron for the updated info. Good work on a great route.
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Location: CO : Durango
By: Kevin Sainio When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new edition of Durango Sandstone has been released! It is available at Backcountry Experience in Durango. Look for the Crow on the corner of 12th and Camino del Rio.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Angel Dust (5.7)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch for the loose block about 25 feet up. It has been there for years so it is probably not going anywhere but be careful anyway, its a big one.
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Location: ME : Rope Redemption Program
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's great to see the climbing industry (and the outdoor industry as a whole) taking a leading role in being environmentally conscious. I can't think of any other industry taking such large steps. Props to all the companies that are making an effort. I will be sending my retired ropes in ASAP.
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Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Kevin Sainio When: May 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There sure are a lot of pictures of blown up Aliens on this thread. I think I'm starting to see a pattern, just maybe.
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Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Kevin Sainio When: May 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sure most of you have seen these pictures, but for those of you who haven't, here are pictures of the cam that initiated the recall. As you can see, this is what it looks like when the braze fails. As for the pictures Andy posted, I'm no expert, but it looks to me like the cable failed, not the braze since a portion of the cable is still inside the head of the cam (or braze, or something). As opposed to mine in which the cable pulled completely out. I would say that this is not a brazing iss... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Owl Rock : Owl Rock (west crack) (5.8+)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good climb on mostly solid rock. There are a couple of large, loose rocks on the ledge right before the anchor. Also, I found large wires to be very helpful in protecting this route i.e. the BIG wild country rocks. Good fun.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: North Chimney has been getting a lot of traffic lately. Much of the loose stuff mentioned is either easily avoidable or gone altogether. My partner and I did it in four pitches, however it can be done in 3. Also, I took a single rack with doubles of .75 to 3 and ran out of "good" gear about 20 feet before the crux on the first pitch. Next time I will take triples of 2's and 3's. No need to make an anchor at the 2nd belay as there is a hex, bong, (maybe a tri-cam) and a nut all fixed. Two seventi... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Second Gully (WI3)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First and Second Gully are in. Both have a significant amount of ice, which makes for some fun climbing. Avalanche danger is pretty low now, but not gone completely. Also, Stairway and Goldrush look climbable but are still on the thin side.
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