Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Kevin Friesen When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is it rated? How long is it?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4) : Photo
By: Kevin Friesen When: Nov 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo! This alpine flower has an amazing aroma. Next time you see one, check it out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Dementia (5.10a)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Oct 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Aug 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Place a directional at the base. There is a bomber small stopper placements before the bolt. Without a directional, a fall could potentially pull the stopper (depending on where your belayer is). I know of a climber that died falling backwards before reaching the first bolt. I don't know if his pro pulled or if he didn't place anything before the bolt.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Mar 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't forget to use elbow protection (neoprene pads or strectch tape). I ground crystals into my elbow, chickenwinging and it became infected. I finished on Kopischka, an exciting face climb. Actually, i bailed out of the unprotected chimney onto the bolted climb, which was quite hard after offwidth exhaustion.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Soft Touch (5.5)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Mar 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you like traverses (and Vedauvoo has some great ones, i.e. Journey to Coramonde; NE Cutoff; Hair Lip; Captain Nemo; Golden Grief; from EO Lieback to the top of 5.11 Crack; Grand Traverse; etc.), try this: Start up Soft Touch and traverse across the horizontal crack to Screw. It starts easy and progressively gets harder. Fist jams are required and then a very thin and off balance mantle to stem across to Screw. Take 1 or... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Mar 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a gem! The highlight for me was the rising traverse, right exit...staying calm as feet slowly oozed off each friction placement and forcing the mind to forget about the last gear 30' away. The Cave is icing on the cake.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this route! Have done it numerous times. No one has mentioned a variation that is a blast! Start La Chaim and face climb towards the base of the Chrome Plated dihedral. Belay here and undercling around the overhang to join Chrome Plated. Bring a #4 Camalot.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route stands out for several reasons. First, I re-emphasize about the dangers of loose rock from above. I was leading, starting into the offwidth, and sensed a whoosh go past my head. A fraction of a second later, a tremendous WHACK! I called out to Bob, belaying me at the first stance. Fearing the worst, I called out again, but no answer. Someone on the ground called out and Bob answered. He was Ok!, a slightly sore neck and a huge hole in the side of his helmet. Secondly, the offwi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Kevin Friesen When: Mar 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have climbed on the Dome many times and have introduced many friends to the sport here. Recall a time I climbed Cozyhang with a climber met on the bulletin board. I led all pitches and when we got to the top, he (forgot his name) flopped on his back and exclaimed, "5.7? No way!" I didn't mean to sandbag him.
Another time, with Charlie, (a partner of many roadtrips (Castleton Tower, Shelf Road, Indian Creek, etc) and alpine climbs), we climbed Christmas week when there were many inches of ice... more >>
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