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Member Since: Nov 7, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 12,759
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 23 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 11 | Posts 1 | Stars 6 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Vrainavore (5.10a)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I just did this for the first time, and I'd call the rock dirty but not dangerous. It seems to see a lot less traffic than the other routes nearby. Otherwise, I thought it was a fun route, with mostly 5.9 climbing, and for me, the overlap near the top was the crux. I did it as a single pitch to the second anchors on Hand-crack-arÍte, and a double rack with a single #4 C4 felt sufficient. The crack is varied, and you can often find small placements to save the hands-sized cams. If you want ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : Post-Op (5.10b PG13)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route. I would think most people would be happier if they doubled up on RPs and small cams. The slab crux section felt hard for 10b, especially when compared to Ionic Column which is rated 10c. The bolt protects the crux very well, but true to the style of most of the routes in the area, you are expected to place gear anywhere it's available, including small gear.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Planetary Pull (5.7)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Jun 23, 2012

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Comments: Did this as a single pitch to the second anchor on Handcrack ArÍte. I thought it was a very good route with continuiously enjoyable climbing. I think this is the better way to climb it. Doubles from fingers to hands is probably enough. Use your best judgment.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: I think it's worth noting that the protection bolts are showing some wear. All three had significant rust, and the first had a loose hanger. You can top rope this route after climbing the 5.8 route to the left using the third bolt as a directional.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: I get the unfortunate honor of ending the debate regarding the upper pin on the roof pitch. It will hold a fall. How do I know? Because it did. Why? Because I suck. I followed my partners advice too literally. He suggested I stay low and left and avoid the sucker holds chalked up higher beneath the roof. So I tried to balance out on the polished rock to the left above that bent up manky pin. Didn't work out so well for me! Scariest thing I've ever fallen onto.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Oct 1, 2011

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Comments: Whether or not you like this climb all depends on if you like (or know how) to climb chimneys, I dig it. Iíve done this route twice now and it amazes me how many people hate on pitch one, and claim it is not 5.7. It isnít, itís 5.6. If you know how to chimney, a lot of the moves on the first pitch have no-hands rests. I have taken a couple of gym climbers up this and they found the first pitch strenuous and exhausting. This is purely due to lack of technique.
I have tried both variations on pit... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Pseudo- Wiessner (5.8)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: It's not unreasonable to bring a number 5 camalot for the second pitch. I brought double 4's and one 5. I walked the 5 up the wide section towards the top, placing it three or four times before leaving it. A number four will fit really deep in the offwidth/squeeze section in a couple of spots, but you might have a twenty foot or more runout if you do not have anything bigger, especially if you try to climb the face outside the crack as my second did. All in all it is a good route and very enjoya... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : The Arch of Titus (5.7+)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: Rope soloed this today using a small tree at the base and a clove hitch on the draw on the first bolt for the bottom anchor. I would say the suggestion for a standard rack is off. Gillett suggest up to a #2 Camalot, I have no idea where you would place this. I had one bomber #0.75 in a pod, otherwise it was all RPs and small C3s (sizes 00, 0, and 1). Bring only small gear and maybe double up on 00s and 0s if you want to sew it up. Overall it was fun but a little mossy in spots.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Handcrack-a-rete (5.7+)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: This is a super fun, moderate climb. The pro is good the whole way. I took the right flake on the second pitch, instead of the arÍte, which looked slightly more run out. The first two pitches can probably be linked. I did it in three short pitches instead. I was learning to use a solo belay device and stuck to the easiest and best protected options in case I had any shenanigans happen. The last pitch chimney has some serious vegetation at the start but looked better protected than the arÍte. On... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: Despite the rather large number of comments, Iíll add another. I did this climb for the second time yesterday. The first time I swapped leads with my partner. He agreed to lead the chimney (he seems to enjoy groveling). We had only up to Number 4 C4s. It is runout without big gear, and I probably would have felt a lot better in the chimney than climbing the face. However, I was wearing the pack and could not fit into it.
This time I led all the pitches and borrowed a number 5 and 6 C4. With the... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: As of Nov 7th 2009 the fixed gear could use a little maintenance. Four bolts had loose hangers (spinners). The bolt on the crux of pitch one, the first bolt above the anchors for pitch one, and the two bolts exiting the dihedral. I didnít have a wrench (maybe I should start bringing one), so I left them how I found them.