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Climbing the second pitch of Ancient Art


Member Since: Nov 18, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 29, 2014
Contact Kevin Sainio


Point Rank: # 1,214
Total Points: 518
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 236 | Routes 13 | Areas 5 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 39 | Stars 68 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: As Alex says, "the group behind us stripped the 2nd bolt". Removing a bad bolt is one thing, removing two perfectly good bolts in solid rock is another, especially when every guidebook printed says the route goes at 5.9, C0. By the way, we found one bolt at the base, it was in great shape, the only thing missing was the hanger.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Yup, some douchebag has removed two of the bolts on this route. The second bolt on the first bolt ladder is gone, which means you must make mandatory 5.10 moves in order to advance. This bolt really should be replaced because of the danger of decking on the ledge if you fall. Also, the first bolt on the second bolt ladder is missing as well making for a slightly more run out third pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Yup, some douchebag has removed two of the bolts on this route. The second bolt on the first bolt ladder is gone, which means you must make mandatory 5.10 moves in order to advance. This bolt really should be replaced because of the danger of decking on the ledge if you fall. Also, the first bolt on the second bolt ladder is missing as well making for a slightly more run out third pitch.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: Uh oh, the cat is out of the bag. Tim, are you really 44? You must have invented climbing :) (that at the end is an emoticon by the way).

Ian: If you ever feel like a repeat of the route, I will carry a crash pad up there for you.

David: I think you should bolt the sh*t out of the Black Arete. It has less gear than Contortionist and Three Open Books (or so I hear, I'm too scared to get on it).

and Tyler: Thank you for bringing the climbing community together again not seen since the days of A... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags : South Park Slabs : South Park The Movie (5.8 R)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Jaaron for the updated info. Good work on a great route.


Location: CO : Durango
By: Kevin Sainio When: Sep 17, 2008

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Comments: The new edition of Durango Sandstone has been released! It is available at Backcountry Experience in Durango. Look for the Crow on the corner of 12th and Camino del Rio.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Angel Dust (5.7)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jun 20, 2008

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Comments: Watch for the loose block about 25 feet up. It has been there for years so it is probably not going anywhere but be careful anyway, its a big one.


Location: ME : Rope Redemption Program
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jul 6, 2007

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Comments: It's great to see the climbing industry (and the outdoor industry as a whole) taking a leading role in being environmentally conscious. I can't think of any other industry taking such large steps. Props to all the companies that are making an effort. I will be sending my retired ropes in ASAP.


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Kevin Sainio When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: There sure are a lot of pictures of blown up Aliens on this thread. I think I'm starting to see a pattern, just maybe.


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Kevin Sainio When: May 5, 2007

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Comments: I'm sure most of you have seen these pictures, but for those of you who haven't, here are pictures of the cam that initiated the recall. As you can see, this is what it looks like when the braze fails. As for the pictures Andy posted, I'm no expert, but it looks to me like the cable failed, not the braze since a portion of the cable is still inside the head of the cam (or braze, or something). As opposed to mine in which the cable pulled completely out. I would say that this is not a brazing iss... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Owl Rock : West Crack (5.8+)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Apr 16, 2007

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Comments: A good climb on mostly solid rock. There are a couple of large, loose rocks on the ledge right before the anchor. Also, I found large wires to be very helpful in protecting this route i.e. the BIG wild country rocks. Good fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Apr 16, 2007

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Comments: North Chimney has been getting a lot of traffic lately. Much of the loose stuff mentioned is either easily avoidable or gone altogether. My partner and I did it in four pitches, however it can be done in 3. Also, I took a single rack with doubles of .75 to 3 and ran out of "good" gear about 20 feet before the crux on the first pitch. Next time I will take triples of 2's and 3's. No need to make an anchor at the 2nd belay as there is a hex, bong, (maybe a tri-cam) and a nut all fixed. Two seventi... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Second Gully (WI3)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 20, 2006

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Comments: First and Second Gully are in. Both have a significant amount of ice, which makes for some fun climbing. Avalanche danger is pretty low now, but not gone completely. Also, Stairway and Goldrush look climbable but are still on the thin side.


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