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Climbing the second pitch of Ancient Art


Member Since: Nov 18, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 29, 2014
Contact Kevin Sainio


Point Rank: # 1,214
Total Points: 518
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kevin Sainio been climbing?










Contributions


All 236 | Routes 13 | Areas 5 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 39 | Stars 68 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Babcock Peak : The Knife (4th)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: Some more photos and a different way of accessing this route.

salsacycles.com/culture/a_fat_...


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: I wish there was a thumbs up option for the previous post.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: Sweet tower. I would have to say that 5.9+ seems a bit steep. If you are a confident 5.9 climber, you shouldn't have a problem. The only problem is you will wish it were longer.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley
By: Kevin Sainio When: May 26, 2011

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Comments: The whole area is junk. Everyone should definitely stay away.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Watch Crystal Crack (5.10d) : Photo
By: Kevin Sainio When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Sweet photo. I love where the belay is located.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Byrd's Classic (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: I totally agree with a bolted anchor. Most other climbs at EA have a bolted anchor. I don't see how this goes against any kind of "ethic". Save the tree!


Location: CO : Durango : Falls Creek Cliff : Out On The Tiles (5.8 A2+ X)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: According to Kozak's Southwest Rock, this climb is named "Out On The Tiles" and is rated 5.8, A2+ (C3).


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseud... (5.7+)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: According to Kozak's Southwest Rock, this route used to be called Pseudo-Cenotaph.


Location: CO : Durango : Junction Creek : Chipmunk Rock : Photo
By: Kevin Sainio When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: Really good discussion, guys. Thanks!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's
By: Kevin Sainio When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: Good call, Dean. The status quo always takes precedence over replacing crappy, 30 year old Star drives at East A. Unless it is "your" route, then you can do whatever the hell you want.


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose
By: Kevin Sainio When: Feb 10, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, Ken, for offering info on this mythical formation. I have hiked by it several times, and every time I swear to come back and climb it. Thanks especially for sharing the photos. It is always great to see a glimpse of climbing history.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Dec 17, 2010

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Comments: Tim, you are starting to freak me out. What keywords did you use to find that video?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: Thanks Sam for placing solid bolts on this route the first time and again this time. Maybe the key missing bolt should be replaced with a glue in, those are almost impossible to remove. Of course, this might start a precedent and that is a slippery slope.

Aimee - Nice socks! What the heck are you carrying on your back?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 16, 2010

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Comments: Wow, I never thought bolting wars in little ole' Durango would ever catch worldwide attention.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: Bob, I just wanted to apologize for my previous post. I have been informed by IanA that you were being sarcastic and that you are a Durango climbing legend as well. My bad!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: At least we can all agree that East A is a pretty sweet place, and let's face it, the only reason we all got on here was because we all give a shit about the place. If we didn't care, then none of us would have spent the past three days wearing out our keyboards. You would be amazed at the amount of trash and beer cans I have picked up from the parking lot, and I'll bet you a six pack that none of it came from the local climbers. Good stories, too. Broken quickdraw, that's pretty sweet.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: F**k you, Thad, it's my sandbox. Oh wait, that's what this discussion is all about.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: It's my sister, and what do I have to hide? I have been very forthcoming with my opinion, and that is all it is, an opinion. You have yours, I have mine. Thanks for sharing. I do agree with my sister though, when it comes to threats and name calling, that is pretty childish (sophomoric), especially if that is all you are going to "bring to the table". I especially like your post about feces, Bob, is that considered sophomoric??


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Per Kozak: "As I did the first ascent of this route in the early '80s, I fully support Tyler in retrofitting the Black Arete. My reason for not bolting it back then was that I was too poor to buy bolts. I like the idea of opening up or democratizing access to this fun route. A three pitch 5.8 on the Watch Crystal is cool. PLEASE do not chop the bolts, and please put the hangers on the route."

Seems to me the discussion is over.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: I personally think a couple of bolts on this line is fine. Just because the first ascent party "solo'ed" the thing over 20 years ago doesn't mean it should stay that way. I'm all about proving how big my nuts are, but when Kozak says bolt it, who am I to argue.

Edit: Found this quote from Kozak on the Contortionist discussion, "By the way, and this may not be a good time to bring this up, but I have also been thinking of retrofitting the Black Arete with two or three well-placed bolts." Nobody ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: First ascent: David Kozak.


Location: CO : Durango : X Rock : Ken's Face
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: Chains have been added to the Ken's Face anchor to make pulling your rope easier. All other anchors on this formation have heinous rope drag.


Location: CO : Durango : X Rock
By: Kevin Sainio When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: A huge thank you goes out to everyone who on October 30th, participated in the first Rock the X day. Rock the X was a day of trail maintenance, garbage clean up, and anchor replacement at Durango's most popular climbing area. Due to everyone involved, there is now a sweet new trail leading from the dirt parking lot to the base of Gold wall all the way out to Ken's Face. Many of the routes that previously had no permanent anchors now do and the place is now trash free. Sponsors of the event inclu... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 31, 2010

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Comments: Hey, Bob, you should really do some research on the history of Durango climbing. John Duran knows more than just about anybody about Southwest trad climbing. Oh and it is East A.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Kevin Sainio When: Oct 23, 2010

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Comments: This really is a great line. Probably one of my favorites. Just because it has the pins doesn't mean you have to clip them. I suggest you don't for full value. Even though the protection up to the first book isn't great, a couple of nuts can still be placed. Have fun!


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