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Member Since: Oct 20, 2012
Last Visit: Dec 29, 2012
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Point Rank: # 13,548
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 11 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Chromium Shore (5.9+ R)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: I read about this route in the old Ament guide and thought it sounded like a good adventure off the beaten path. So I asked my old friend Mike Brooks about it, and he just laughed. I never did do the route, because I wasn't quite sure were it went. Ament's guidebook descriptions could be kind of ambiguous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: Now that's a diagram! How pumped did you get placing all that? Personally I always go to the pin, but then again I have flawless beta that is mercilessly wired. I can say that it is possible to take a really bad fall from this roof. People barn door off and cartwheel downhill. So by all means do what you got to do. It's your neck!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: Tubesocks! I remember E.B.s and Hummingbirds. So little sensitivity you might as well be wearing socks anyway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: The climbs on this wall were all pretty horror show for gear back in the day. Yeah, I know, we all manned up and did it anyway. I am glad that this old crap is getting fixed. Every time I read in MP about someone replacing some old fixed gear I think "great, that thing was garbage thirty years ago". As for the anchor under the roof, I agree with Mark R. I used to come up here and just do the first bit as a warm up for brevities' sake as I moved along the wall and did as many of these routes as t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Back in Black (5.11c/d)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: The .11a I believe they are referring to is at the first bolt were you begin your commitment to this climb. Some people have quite a bit of trouble here if they are not strong climbers or lack a bouldering style. The intimidation factor (spacing between bolts - scary, black rock) seem to keep some people from boldly going for it at this bolt. Near the end of this pitch, even though the bolt is at your feet on the crux, 20+ footers are common due to slack/rope stretch but should be perfectly safe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : No Lo Contendere (5.10c)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: My friend Mike Brooks stuck me on this a long time ago. Not sure how long ago this was, but as I recall "someone" had just led it and there were no bolts until clipping the last bolt on the Contest. What I remember about doing this was for one it was pretty good and the other that it was pretty spicy. Another aspect of this route is that I don't think I would have noticed it or climbed it for that matter if it hadn't been for Mike who had a penchant for the obscure (he probably just wanted a rid... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: It is interesting to note that back in the day 5.9 was the hardest free rating given, and there was a huge range of difficulty at that grade. I believe that the first 5.10 grade given in the Boulder area was Athlete's Feat on Castle Rock which is a pretty burly 5.10. This gives you an idea of how hard things had to get before people were willing to acknowledge that people were climbing harder than before. Several things to consider: our forefathers were burly, they were just starting to figure t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.13b)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: I enjoyed this route very much. It has been quite a while, but if I remember correctly, you can go up with your left at the crux and do a core strength/ body tension thing if the right arm gaston move troubles you. I think it is height-dependent though. I'm 5.11&1/2, my friend is a little shorter and couldn't do it that way but got a shoulder injury on the right arm gaston.


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: WTF is the real scoop on E.C. buildering? Is there any real, codified, regulations, restrictions, laws against it? Our freeclimbing forefathers cut their teeth here back in the sixties. My friends and I have had run-ins with overzealous, wanna be cops back in the day, but in the current climate of the jackbooted, thug cracking your skull to protect your freedom; what is the situation? My bros have had run ins with Boulder Po Po all too eager to kill the terrorists with chalk on their h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: My friends and I all climbed here in in our teens in the early eighties. We developed our forearm and crimp strength to give us the confidence to send the Eldo testpieces. We got hassled infrequently by the campus police. but now the Boulder po po seems to be in on the crackdown. They claim that it is against written campus law. Does anyone have any information pertaining to the legality of campus bouldering? Or any suggestions as to finding out the legal position on this subject? Our badass for... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not aka The B... (5.11c)
By: Kevin Meyers When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: Paul Glover, myself, and another friend climbed the bouldering start back in 1983. There was no chalk, no bolts, and no indication that anyone had climbed here. Paul got it first. I think that I was handicapped by my full size hiking boots as I had not yet acquired a pair of climbing shoes. We were 16 at the time and thought that we had done a cool first ascent. Doing a little research in Erickson's "Rocky Heights" guidebook, we discovered that it had been done already and was called "The Brown ... more >>