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Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney


Member Since: Jul 10, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Kevin Heckeler

Kevin Heckeler
is a member of
Point Rank: # 443
Total Points: 1,604
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 27
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kevin Heckeler been climbing?










Contributions


All 2169 | Routes 85 | Areas 7 | Photos 78 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 253 | Posts 1109 | Stars 428 | Ratings 207
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Chimney Mountain
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Chimney Mountain has 4 distinct climbing areas. The one here is described in ADK Rock as the "Summit", where there are two documented climbs [5.6 Southwest Ridge, 5.1 Standard]

There is also the "True Summit", about 5 minutes from the summit using the left trail in the camping area. "Lookout" which is 10 minutes below the summit and can be accessed from the main hiking trail. "Caveman&qu... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Climber's right walkoff/rappel from the top of Little Gem Diner is the slightly faster descent option.

Any wasp/hornet nests on the climb?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Space Cowboy (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Underrated climb. I've climbed this several times and always go to the left anchor, just seems like the more obvious finish unless you want to setup a TR on the 5.9 to the right.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: We lowered off far left from each anchor, which required cutting your feet for the final 25 feet. Trying to come straight down the wall was not the line gravity was taking. Novice climbers might be a bit uneasy being lowered this way if they have no experience being lowered past a roof.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Riders of the Purple Sage (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: There's a lot of hollow sounding plates on this route. Climb gently. ;)

Our 60M did NOT reach the ground, wasn't even close. Only route we had this issue among the many we climbed in our 5 day stay. I was able to get lowered to just below the first bolt in the left crack, then it wasn't too bad (5.3?) down climbing the 15-20 feet. [it appears to be added to the description now, thanks!]

Still a very fun climb, ranks as one of the better routes I did during my stay (it's probably... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Werner's Werthers. (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: The second move's primary hold (plate/flake) is flexing and won't be there for much longer. The climb is really good, it's only fault is not being 30 feet longer.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : The Leaning Tower of Pizza
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: These are great moderates and should not be overlooked if you're spending some days at Alabama Hills. The 5.7 "Panzarotti" is probably the best of the three climbs, but they're all worth doing. If you're new to leading/climbing I would avoid the start on "It's a Pisa Pie" if you can't clip the bolt first. Back East we call this a 'bouldery' start, which is to say NOT 5.6


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Clip Jr. (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Mussy hooks/anchors are getting really tired. We used our own biners and rappelled off the hooks.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Ranger of the North (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Top to anchors a bit harder than 5.6 . Nice, short, wandery route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: The rope on the first anchor is getting weathered and the backside of the knot is worn through the sheath. IMO the climb is better combining both pitches to the top anyway (just watch the rap from the top, requires a 70m - or just walkoff right).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: The chains above P1 are looking tired. Been there a long time (one of the first high traffic bolted anchors in the gunks?).


Location: Eastern States : Gunks Rock Fall : Post : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 23, 2015

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Comments: Slap a #5 behind that shit and send it, son!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Tanager Face : Lifelong Affliction (5.8+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: -- Beta alert -- if you try climbing this as a fingers/hands crack, jamming, it will feel impossible. The trick is to use the crack for your feet, under-clinging and side-pulling it with your hands. You basically walk the crack. It's still tough, but closer to the 5.8 grade than say 5.10


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Crack of Dawn (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I'm preferring going around right on P1 (5.4), then traversing back left on the ledge to avoid that 6 foot section of painful crystal jamming. The rest of the climb is fun adventure climbing. It may *seem* dirty, but every hold needed is clean.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: You can go straight up from the large tree belay, or head up the flaring crack on the left.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Mixed is commonly used to describe both things, it's all about context. ;-)

This climb (on this day) was both - bolts/pro, AND ice/snow/rock. lol


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Jump Bat Crack (5.8-)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I found the crux to be the last couple moves to the final tree branch at the top. The tree is "in", right? :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Arachnid Traction (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Stellar single pitch moderate. Top 25 feet sustained. Many small 5.6-5.7 crux moves before getting into the main business. Not a lot of single pitch crag climbing in the ADKs like the Creature Walls, where the routes are long and sustained with interesting movement for the duration.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress (5.5 X)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: If you want to take the north descent, climb ALL THE WAY to the top, PAST the small island of trees as Kenr describes as P6, to a very large boulder perched at the top [and rap station at a tree to its right]. You can barely see the top of the boulder from the tree island. You can traverse across the ledges from the tree island at P6, but at the end of the ledge was 20 feet of exposed, wet, and dirty slab. Wouldn't want to slip there.

P7 is easy 5.0 friction. At the top put the rop... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shantytown (5.9+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The top, and IMO most important bolt, is a spinner (was very loose when I tried unsuccessfully to tighten it).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Oracle (5.10c)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Nick, feel free to add some stars :).

I used a rough formula to translate the published ADK Rock quality grades into MP's star system. ADK rock uses 5 stars, MP only 4. This was 3/5 stars in the ADK Rock guide.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Touran (5.7 PG13)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: I'm rarely one to downgrade a climb, but I'm not sure where the +plus was. So I graded it 5.7

As for PG protection, there is some runout between bolts so that's perhaps warranted.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Toucan (5.9-)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: There's potential ledge fall above the third bolt. I thought the crux was getting a stance after the jug. Fun section of steeper climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Touche (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Of the moderates here, I thought this was the most varied and sustained (5.5 with a couple 5.7 moves). Classic Gunks roof move at the top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Sleeping Beauty Mountain
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Currently the road into Dacy Clearing is closed (as of June 20, 2015). I heard it was in need of repairs. It adds 1.5 miles/3 miles round trip of easy road walking to get to the cliffs.


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