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Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, age 5


Member Since: Dec 26, 2003
Last Visit: Apr 7, 2014
Contact Kevin Gillest


Point Rank: # 263
Total Points: 1,968
Last Year: 215
Last 30 Days: 0
22 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



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All (935) | Routes (15) | Areas | Photos (348) | Comments (78) | Posts (13) | Stars (269) | Ratings (212)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Kevin Gillest When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: If you can look very closely at the lower ice on the "Window Pane" there is a climber just starting the route


Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: One of the best RMNP ice photos ever


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : The Good, The Bad, and the ... (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Great route, seems like it might have lost a foot for the initial traverse from the crack onto the face. The opening moves on the face seem harder than 11 b/c, considering the cross through and lack of feet.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Total Abandon Sept. 29th in good shape.

P1 before top out at fixed belay.
P1 before top out at fixed belay.

We set some fair screws but not great.

Current P2 condition.
Current P2 condition.

Conditions were good, maybe better than Sept. 2012 conditions.

Looking down P2.
Looking down P2.

Lots of fun.

Had planned to set anchors down the route for easy access from the top, somebody decided they needed the P3 top out anchors (fixed pin, nut, and equalized with quick-link)Now gone? So anchors still only exist at the top of pitch 1. New fixed pin 40 feet from P2 crux top-out right side... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Easy line to follow, very little route finding needed.

Rappel info using 2 70s:
  • From top out anchor to the top of the P6, 120ft.
  • From top P6 to top of P4, 220ft.
  • From top P4 to top of P2, 220ft.
  • From top P2 to route base, 170ft.
(All bolted anchors have carabiner or quick-links other than P2 & P3.)

Looking down P3, Rainbow Highway.
Looking down P3, Rainbow Highway.


Looking down P5, Rainbow Highway, 10a.
Looking down P5, Rainbow Highway, 10a.


Just past the crux section on P6, Rainbow Highway.
Just past the crux section on P6, Rainbow Highway.


Looking down P7, also entire route from topout.
Looking down P7, also entire route from topout.



Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Great moderate alpine climbing.
P1, 5.8, 120 ft slightly challenging to find starting point.
P2, 10a, 100 ft hand crack to grassy ledge.
P2 Lazy Sunday.
P2 Lazy Sunday.

P3, 10a, 120 ft shallow corner under roof, right traverse, up to grassy ledge.
P3 Lazy Sunday.
P3 Lazy Sunday.

P4, 10b, 100 ft step left from belay, climb steep flake/finger crack, not sure if this was part of the original route? Ending on grassy ledge.
P4 Lazy Sunday.
P4 Lazy Sunday.

P5, 10b, 80 ft, left-facing dihedral, climb crack system left of corner to top out, not sure ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Goodro's Wall (5.10c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Great route, worth the drive for this route alone. Used single set of cams, Blue #1 Metolius - Red BD #1

Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "Goodro's Wall" at age 7
Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "Goodro's Wall" at age 7



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Into the Black (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: We must have climbed right after they drilled, still had drill debris, first 4 bolts were great, crux down low near the start of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Out of the Blue (5.9)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Climbed on June 16th, still real dirty, but all dangerous boulders have been removed. Trail work is needed at this point, but fun day with my family.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Green Chile (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Kirk, please let me know the FA team and we can correct. Awesome, fun route!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Leftmost Corner at Hidden F... (WI5+ M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: We topped out on both pitches using exit 2, good screws, and single swings for approx. 330ft. The ice was really wet, better bring lots of gloves, and the best Goretex you own. It actually rained on the approach, eventually turned to snow, made for a cold wet day.
Route conditions on 3/17/2013: <br /><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Black arrow, 2010 condition had a detached candle.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Red arrow, 1st belay at approx. 180 feet, chockstone slings and new single bolt.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Blue arrow, 2010 high point.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Purple arrow, old bail anchor, rivet bolt with Tri-Cam, back up with sling.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Yellow arrow, 2013 top-out at approx. 330 feet, 4 bolt anchor with old/new slings.</li></ul>
Route conditions on 3/17/2013:
  • Black arrow, 2010 condition had a detached candle.
  • Red arrow, 1st belay at approx. 180 feet, chockstone slings and new single bolt.
  • Blue arrow, 2010 high point.
  • Purple arrow, old bail anchor, rivet bolt with Tri-Cam, back up with sling.
  • Yellow arrow, 2013 top-out at approx. 330 feet, 4 bolt anchor with old/new slings.


Pitch 1, WI4+ or 5-, no mixed this season.

Pitch 1 3/17/2013 conditions.
Pitch 1 3/17/2013 conditions.


Pitch 2, WI5, Carl Pluim on lead.

Pitch 2 3/17/2013 conditions.
Pitch 2 3/17/2013 conditions.


Pitch 2, rappel anchor.

4 bolt anchor, looking at age of 3 bolts, likely 20+ years old, 1 new bolt and quick-link added.
4 bolt anchor, looking at age of 3 bolts, likely 20+ years old, 1 new bolt and quick-link added.


Overall route scale.

 more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Great conditions considering the lack of snow.

2/17/2013 conditions.
2/17/2013 conditions.



Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Small Flow (right) (WI4-5 M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Best conditions we have climbed this line in quite a few years, WI4+ M5+, a few 17cm screws (possible stubbies depending on the year), rock gear from Metolius #2 - BD #3, great conditions now.

Do not take this lightly, personally rode the hanging lower curtain 20 feet to the ground in 2006.

Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Tora, Tora, Tora (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Assumption (WI5 M5)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Climbed Blind Assumption 11/24/2012.

Pitch 1: Red arrow shows first belay (2 pins). Green arrow show top of 1st pitch. 110 ft, WI3 M4.
Pitch 1: Red arrow shows first belay (2 pins). Green arrow show top of 1st pitch. 110 ft, WI3 M4.

We belayed at 110 ft due to rope drag, red sling on chockstone, right after making move up and right off ice around first chockstone.


Pitch 2: M5, very little ice.
Pitch 2: M5, very little ice.

Small amount of ice leaving belay, up under huge chockstone, anchor under overhanging (did not use), follow ledge out left, straight up to edge of chockstone, belay up in flat area 2 pins.


Pitch 2: 120 ft, WI5+ M5+.
Pitch 2: 120 ft, WI5+ M5+.

Detached curtain WI5+, Good rock gear opposite wall of ice, 1 pin.

Pitch 3: 80 ft off 3rd belay.
Pitch 3: 80 ft off 3rd belay.

Loo... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbed Fields Nov. 4, 2012:

Pitch 1, WI3 M4, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 1, WI3 M4, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 1, WI3 M4 180 feet, fixed belay (left side) 2 pins and nut equalized by 5mm cord.

Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, fixed belay (center) old webbing behind block.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 3, leaving the belay stance.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 3, We climbed a variation out of chimney exiting upper left side.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, follow crack out of left side of chimney, thin slab for 90 feet, new belay with 2 pins/6... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip It In (5.11b)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: From 4th bolt to the anchors is exciting, thin face moves to sloper finishing holds, 15-20' ride if you blow the finish.

The anchors are looking really rough, they could really use an updated set.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Th... (5.11b)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, great moves, upper part backs off considerably.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Eat the Rich (5.10c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite Wall Street warm-up's, and this is harder than it looks, the finish is the real business


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : ker-THUD! (5.9)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Thought the bolts were well spaced, the gear was fine, if 5.9 happens to be your limit, this route might be a bit scary.

The lichen is still heavy, needs more traffic, but all key holds are free of lichen now.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Great early season conditions 9/23/2012:

Top out P1, Carl Pluim belaying.
Top out P1, Carl Pluim belaying.


Right after leaving 1st belay, P2 crux.
Right after leaving 1st belay, P2 crux.


P2 top out, awesome conditions!
P2 top out, awesome conditions!


Also, there is a new anchor at last pitch top out. 1 more mid-level anchor and route will be fully rappel-able.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Nice work, was hoping to get back this season before the snow flies.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 1 10+:
We linked the 2 first pitches together, be sure to use all 24" and 48" runners, we had rope drag at the anchor. Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse.
Pitch 2 10a:
From the 1st bolted belay to the 2nd bolted belay at the large roof, scrambling to the corner without much gear, great splitter crack to bolted belay.
Pitch 3 10+:
2nd bolted belay till 3rd bolted belay, awesome corner likely the crux of the route, without the face holds this route w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Bell Buster (5.11a)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: We climbed this route in the rain, perfect situation until you top out on the slab finish. Overall a fairly good route, but if Hound Dog is truly 11a, this route is easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: We climbed/crossed Clear Creek on Sat Aug 4th, the river was still higher then expected.
Red arrows show our river crossing path, still 36" deep and swift.
Red arrows show our river crossing path, still 36" deep and swift.

Garrett and Lisa Gillest crossing back after climbing New Economy, they found the old tyrolean traverse rope, used as anchor to cross back.
Garrett and Lisa Gillest crossing back after climbing New Economy, they found the old tyrolean traverse rope, used as anchor to cross back.



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