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Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, age 5


Member Since: Dec 26, 2003
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 262
Total Points: 1,758
Last Year: 671
Last 30 Days: 5
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Where has Kevin Gillest been climbing?


29 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











Kevin Gillest

 
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All (773) | Routes (14) | Areas | Photos (310) | Comments (68) | Posts (11) | Stars (211) | Ratings (159)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Leftmost Corner at Hidden F... (WI5+ M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: We topped out on both pitches using exit 2, good screws, and single swings for approx. 330ft. The ice was really wet, better bring lots of gloves, and the best Goretex you own. It actually rained on the approach, eventually turned to snow, made for a cold wet day.
Route conditions on 3/17/2013: <br /><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Black arrow, 2010 condition had a detached candle.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Red arrow, 1st belay at approx. 180 feet, chockstone slings and new single bolt.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Blue arrow, 2010 high point.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Purple arrow, old bail anchor, rivet bolt with Tri-Cam, back up with sling.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Yellow arrow, 2013 top-out at approx. 330 feet, 4 bolt anchor with old/new slings.</li></ul>
Route conditions on 3/17/2013:
  • Black arrow, 2010 condition had a detached candle.
  • Red arrow, 1st belay at approx. 180 feet, chockstone slings and new single bolt.
  • Blue arrow, 2010 high point.
  • Purple arrow, old bail anchor, rivet bolt with Tri-Cam, back up with sling.
  • Yellow arrow, 2013 top-out at approx. 330 feet, 4 bolt anchor with old/new slings.

Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Mar 19, 2013


Pitch 1, WI4+ or 5-, no mixed this season.

Pitch 1 3/17/2013 conditions.
Pitch 1 3/17/2013 conditions.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Mar 19, 2013


Pitch 2, WI5, Carl Pluim on lead.

Pitch 2 3/17/2013 conditions.
Pitch 2 3/17/2013 conditions.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Mar 19, 2013


Pitch 2, rappel anchor.

4 bolt anchor, looking at age of 3 bolts, likely 20+ years old, 1 new bolt and quick-link added.
4 bolt anchor, looking at age of 3 bolts, likely 20+ years old, 1 new bolt and quick-link added.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Mar 19, 2013


Overall route scale.

 more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Great conditions considering the lack of snow.

2/17/2013 conditions.
2/17/2013 conditions.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Feb 19, 2013



Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Small Flow (right) (WI4-5 M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Best conditions we have climbed this line in quite a few years, WI4+ M5+, a few 17cm screws (possible stubbies depending on the year), rock gear from Metolius #2 - BD #3, great conditions now.

Do not take this lightly, personally rode the hanging lower curtain 20 feet to the ground in 2006.

Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Feb 19, 2013



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Tora, Tora, Tora (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Assumption (WI5 M5)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Climbed Blind Assumption 11/24/2012.

Pitch 1: Red arrow shows first belay (2 pins). Green arrow show top of 1st pitch. 110 ft, WI3 M4.
Pitch 1: Red arrow shows first belay (2 pins). Green arrow show top of 1st pitch. 110 ft, WI3 M4.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 20, 2012

We belayed at 110 ft due to rope drag, red sling on chockstone, right after making move up and right off ice around first chockstone.


Pitch 2: M5, very little ice.
Pitch 2: M5, very little ice.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 20, 2012

Small amount of ice leaving belay, up under huge chockstone, anchor under overhanging (did not use), follow ledge out left, straight up to edge of chockstone, belay up in flat area 2 pins.


Pitch 2: 120 ft, WI5+ M5+.
Pitch 2: 120 ft, WI5+ M5+.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 20, 2012

Detached curtain WI5+, Good rock gear opposite wall of ice, 1 pin.

Pitch 3: 80 ft off 3rd belay.
Pitch 3: 80 ft off 3rd belay.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 20, 2012

Loo... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbed Fields Nov. 4, 2012:

Pitch 1, WI3 M4, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 1, WI3 M4, Fields Chimney.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 5, 2012

Pitch 1, WI3 M4 180 feet, fixed belay (left side) 2 pins and nut equalized by 5mm cord.

Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, Fields Chimney.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 5, 2012

Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, fixed belay (center) old webbing behind block.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, Fields Chimney.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 5, 2012

Pitch 3, leaving the belay stance.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 5, 2012

Pitch 3, We climbed a variation out of chimney exiting upper left side.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Nov 5, 2012

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, follow crack out of left side of chimney, thin slab for 90 feet, new belay with 2 pins/6... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip It In (5.11b)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: From 4th bolt to the anchors is exciting, thin face moves to sloper finishing holds, 15-20' ride if you blow the finish.

The anchors are looking really rough, they could really use an updated set.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Th... (5.11b)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, great moves, upper part backs off considerably.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Eat the Rich (5.10c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite Wall Street warm-up's, and this is harder than it looks, the finish is the real business


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : River Road Dihedrals : ker-THUD! (5.9)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Thought the bolts were well spaced, the gear was fine, if 5.9 happens to be your limit, this route might be a bit scary.

The lichen is still heavy, needs more traffic, but all key holds are free of lichen now.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Great early season conditions 9/23/2012:

Top out P1, Carl Pluim belaying.
Top out P1, Carl Pluim belaying.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Sep 24, 2012


Right after leaving 1st belay, P2 crux.
Right after leaving 1st belay, P2 crux.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Sep 24, 2012


P2 top out, awesome conditions!
P2 top out, awesome conditions!
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Sep 24, 2012


Also, there is a new anchor at last pitch top out. 1 more mid-level anchor and route will be fully rappel-able.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Nice work, was hoping to get back this season before the snow flies.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : The Emerald Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 1 10+:
We linked the 2 first pitches together, be sure to use all 24" and 48" runners, we had rope drag at the anchor. Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse.
Pitch 2 10a:
From the 1st bolted belay to the 2nd bolted belay at the large roof, scrambling to the corner without much gear, great splitter crack to bolted belay.
Pitch 3 10+:
2nd bolted belay till 3rd bolted belay, awesome corner likely the crux of the route, without the face holds this route w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Bell Buster (5.11a)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: We climbed this route in the rain, perfect situation until you top out on the slab finish. Overall a fairly good route, but if Hound Dog is truly 11a, this route is easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: We climbed/crossed Clear Creek on Sat Aug 4th, the river was still higher then expected.
Red arrows show our river crossing path, still 36" deep and swift.
Red arrows show our river crossing path, still 36" deep and swift.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Aug 5, 2012

Garrett and Lisa Gillest crossing back after climbing New Economy, they found the old tyrolean traverse rope, used as anchor to cross back.
Garrett and Lisa Gillest crossing back after climbing New Economy, they found the old tyrolean traverse rope, used as anchor to cross back.
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Aug 5, 2012



Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Heaven Can Wait (5.9)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: We climbed through the 5.5 section to the roof, single nut/sling/carabiner rappel back to the ground with a single 70m rope.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Phil-a-Guster (5.11a)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: We finished with this variation, I assumed it was the actual finish of the route. Seems a little harder than 10c, at least in my opinion. Great way to end a spectacular route


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab a... : N/A (5.9+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: This route is about exactly 100 foot long, 10 bolts, 1 old pin, and 2 rusty chain anchors. The grade is about 5.9 or 9+, easy climbing, but if this the upper end of your grade, the bolt spacing is longer than typical CCC. The route is similar in steepness and rock quality to CCC Red Slab, my opinion the wall should have been named Stanley Slab.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: Shoes found at the Canal Zone Tuesday June 26th, describe make, model and size, they're yours!


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Whomever has done the trail work here, awesome job! Been to a lot of remote ares that do not even compare. We made the approach in 30 minutes, first time, and with a 6 year old.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : C'est What? (5.11b)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: Found gear on the 5.8R section at 25-30ft, while in the initial corner placed #0 Metolius (purple). Gear again before the traverse to the bolts, #0.5 BD and, either #1 or 0.75 BD before clipping the first bolt. Sketchy climbing but not X, in my opinion.
Awesome, sketchy, and scary Eldo climbing!


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: We climbed this route and the one to the right, no noise from any animals.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Dihedral (5.11-)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Leo,

Please correct me if I am wrong about this route name, great 11 even if the name is incorrect.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nightworm Pinnacle : Unknown 11 (5.11a)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Metolius #0 (purple) protects the move past the 2nd pin.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Southpaw (5.9+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Not the best route we have ever climbed, but one of the better routes at Rebel Wall. After the hand jam, climb up and over minor over hang, a few harder moves, easily avoidable though. If this route is climbed up and over the minor overhang, my opinion, it's harder than 10a.

By the way, 11 total bolts, crux at 9-10.


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