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Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, ag...


Member Since: Dec 26, 2003
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Kevin Gillest

Point Rank: # 296
Total Points: 2,259
Last Year: 109
Last 30 Days: 6
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kevin Gillest been climbing?










Contributions


All 1134 | Routes 15 | Areas | Photos 404 | Page Improvements | Comments 89 | Posts 20 | Stars 332 | Ratings 274
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Honey Pot (5.9)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Gillest, age 10, on Honey Pot.
Garrett Gillest, age 10, on Honey Pot.


Looks like as of 9/11/2016 somebody retro-bolted this route, about 7 or 8 new bolts. Appears to have been bolted over the weekend from the drill debris left on the route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Small Flow (right) (WI4+ M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: We added a 20 foot section of rope from the tree all the way back to the edge of the route with a steel ring. When you top out you can just clip and not make the last move if preferred. There is Zero rope drag now.

We fixed this a few years ago, but apparently it must have not been clear it was a fixed rappel station.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Glacier Gorge : ... : Black Lake - West Gully (WI3-4)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Dec 30, 2015

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Comments: We climbed West Gully at Black Lake, Dec. 27th 2015:
- Temp was -10 leaving the car at 5am.
- Car-to-car time 10 hr.
- 3hr car-to-base of route.
- Broke trail about the last 1 mile to Black Lake with 12" new snow, the snow from Black Lake to the base of the route was 24-36".

Rock Climbing Photo: Top of P1 - Byron Henze, climber.
Top of P1 - Byron Henze, climber.


Rock Climbing Photo: Near topout of P2.
Near topout of P2.


- No top out on P3 due to excessive snow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower angled P3 with excessive snow.
Lower angled P3 with excessive snow.


- Rap off of top of P2 was approximately 200 ft or 60m, used existing V-threads.
Rock Climbing Photo: Existing P2 V-threads.
Existing P2 V-threads.



Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Small Flow (right) (WI4+ M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Falls - Right.
Hidden Falls - Right.


Conditions are fat 12/13/2015, we set a high V-thread. Maybe it will last the season.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : Feel the Pressure (M8- PG13)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Rode a rock to the ground on this route at the 3rd bolt in Feb. 2006, broken helmet and lots of blood.

Rock Climbing Photo: The day after the accident.
The day after the accident.


Rock Climbing Photo: Article in Climbing magazine, August 2006.
Article in Climbing magazine, August 2006.


Enjoy!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Child Abuse (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: What is the story with this picture?


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Shark Attack! or Shark Infe... (5.10d)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: 4 bolts to solid gear:
-#3 orange Metolius cam
-med. Stopper/nut
-#2 gold BD Cam
-#1 red BD Cam
-used Feeding Frenzy anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Gillest on "Free Willie" age 8, ...
Garrett Gillest on "Free Willie" age 8, not quite to the crux.



Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Never Named, No. 39 (5.9+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Supplement gear for us was Metolius #1, #2, and small nut up high. The bail webbing on the 4th bolt was dangerous, we cut it off. Not only was there burn marks from somebody lowering, but the knots were only a series of overhands. Wet, partially run-out, but exciting.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: We went to the Black Wall today, attempted to descend the Rainbow Highway rappel. At least 20' of snow left at the first rappel, no way to find the anchor. We rapped the Good Evans rappel, thinking we could still climb Rainbow. After looking up the route and seeing that wall of snow, no way! It might be another month before that snow melts.

Tan Buttress looks dry, the descent to the base of the wall might be challenging today with all of the snow.

Climbed Good Evans, little wet topping pitch 4... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: We climbed Good Evans today, might be a few weeks too early, but everything was good. No issues and absolutely no climbers. Temps were 40 as the sun came up, 60 on the wall in the sun.
-The rappel route was dry.
-The climbing route was dry except above the 4th pitch, there is at least 20' of snow left above the route, the Phil-a-Guster finish is buried in the snow. No way to finish straight up.


Location: Colorado : The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Kevin Gillest When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: If you can look very closely at the lower ice on the "Window Pane" there is a climber just starting the route


Location: Colorado : The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: One of the best RMNP ice photos ever


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : The Good, The Bad, and the ... (5.11)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Great route, seems like it might have lost a foot for the initial traverse from the crack onto the face. The opening moves on the face seem harder than 11 b/c, considering the cross through and lack of feet.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M4+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Total Abandon Sept. 29th in good shape.

Rock Climbing Photo: P1 before top out at fixed belay.
P1 before top out at fixed belay.

We set some fair screws but not great.

Rock Climbing Photo: Current P2 condition.
Current P2 condition.

Conditions were good, maybe better than Sept. 2012 conditions.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P2.
Looking down P2.

Lots of fun.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Easy line to follow, very little route finding needed.

Rappel info using 2 70s:
  • From top out anchor to the top of the P6, 120ft.
  • From top P6 to top of P4, 220ft.
  • From top P4 to top of P2, 220ft.
  • From top P2 to route base, 170ft.
(All bolted anchors have carabiner or quick-links other than P2 & P3.)

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P3, Rainbow Highway.
Looking down P3, Rainbow Highway.


Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P5, Rainbow Highway, 10a.
Looking down P5, Rainbow Highway, 10a.


Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux section on P6, Rainbow Highway.
Just past the crux section on P6, Rainbow Highway.


Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P7, also entire route from topout.
Looking down P7, also entire route from topout.



Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Lazy Sunday Route (5.10-)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Great moderate alpine climbing.
P1, 5.8, 120 ft slightly challenging to find starting point.
P2, 10a, 100 ft hand crack to grassy ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 Lazy Sunday.
P2 Lazy Sunday.

P3, 10a, 120 ft shallow corner under roof, right traverse, up to grassy ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 Lazy Sunday.
P3 Lazy Sunday.

P4, 10b, 100 ft step left from belay, climb steep flake/finger crack, not sure if this was part of the original route? Ending on grassy ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4 Lazy Sunday.
P4 Lazy Sunday.

P5, 10b, 80 ft, left-facing dihedral, climb crack system left of corner to top out, not sure ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Goodro's Wall (5.10c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Great route, worth the drive for this route alone. Used single set of cams, Blue #1 Metolius - Red BD #1

Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "...
Garrett Gillest sending and cleaning gear on "Goodro's Wall" at age 7



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Into the Black (5.10+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: We must have climbed right after they drilled, still had drill debris, first 4 bolts were great, crux down low near the start of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Out of the Blue (5.8+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Climbed on June 16th, still real dirty, but all dangerous boulders have been removed. Trail work is needed at this point, but fun day with my family.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Green Chile (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Kirk, please let me know the FA team and we can correct. Awesome, fun route!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Leftmost Corner at Hidden F... (WI5+ M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: We topped out on both pitches using exit 2, good screws, and single swings for approx. 330ft. The ice was really wet, better bring lots of gloves, and the best Goretex you own. It actually rained on the approach, eventually turned to snow, made for a cold wet day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route conditions on 3/17/2013: Black arrow, 2010 c...
Route conditions on 3/17/2013:
  • Black arrow, 2010 condition had a detached candle.
  • Red arrow, 1st belay at approx. 180 feet, chockstone slings and new single bolt.
  • Blue arrow, 2010 high point.
  • Purple arrow, old bail anchor, rivet bolt with Tri-Cam, back up with sling.
  • Yellow arrow, 2013 top-out at approx. 330 feet, 4 bolt anchor with old/new slings.


Pitch 1, WI4+ or 5-, no mixed this season.

Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 3/17/2013 conditions.
Pitch 1 3/17/2013 conditions.


Pitch 2, WI5, Carl Pluim on lead.

Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 3/17/2013 conditions.
Pitch 2 3/17/2013 conditions.


Pitch 2, rappel anchor.

Rock Climbing Photo: 4 bolt anchor, looking at age of 3 bolts, likely 2...
4 bolt anchor, looking at age of 3 bolts, likely 20+ years old, 1 new bolt and quick-link added.


Overall route scale.

 more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4-)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Great conditions considering the lack of snow.

Rock Climbing Photo: 2/17/2013 conditions.
2/17/2013 conditions.



Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Small Flow (right) (WI4+ M5+)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Best conditions we have climbed this line in quite a few years, WI4+ M5+, a few 17cm screws (possible stubbies depending on the year), rock gear from Metolius #2 - BD #3, great conditions now.

Do not take this lightly, personally rode the hanging lower curtain 20 feet to the ground in 2006.

Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Tora, Tora, Tora (5.11b)
By: Kevin Gillest When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic.


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