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Member Since: Jul 10, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 6, 2014
Contact Kevin Frederick


Point Rank: # 9,132
Total Points: 27
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kevin Frederick been climbing?










Contributions


All 37 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts | Stars 12 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Re: S. Price --

Again, curious -- how many unpainted hangers are there? 5? 50? 100?

Anyway, you sound quite determined to strip the hangers, and reading between the lines it sounds like there's already a "rift" in the local climbing community. Too bad. I would have liked to help contribute in a positive manner; since I don't have the time resources to do so I would have been happy to contribute monetarily. It's a shame to see the same old tired battles among climbers, rather than wor... more >>


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: S.Price, re: removing hangers.

I would be sad to see you strip hangers not only for my own selfish interests (though I'm only here once a year, in summer, so thank you for not stripping them yet!) but also because such actions just create antagonism and division within the climbing community.

Questions: have there been complaints from land managers, hikers, etc? IMHO I think the chalk is a bigger eyesore. How many hangers are you targeting?

Just an idea: since you obviously feel very strongly... more >>


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Nice rock here. Most of the routes are not bolted for leading at your limit, IMHO.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: FYI, I spotted several more anchors that are not described here: two on the left side (one up high between Acute Dihedral and Unknown, plus a newly bolted arete -- the arete forming the right side of Acute Diheral) and two anchors on the right side of V Rock. Looking forward to going back!


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: At the offwidth part, there are 3-4 helmet-sized, loose rocks sitting on the outside right edge of the crack. They are very tempting footholds for getting into the crack... wigged me out since your belayer is directly under them!


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Re: the approach, in our experience, do NOT turn off the trail at approximately 9800'... it is way too early. We did this and ended up way too low with lots of bushwhacking. On the way back, we found the cairns from the bottom right toe of V-rock but lost them after a while. We reunited with the V-rock trail at about 10,400'. It would be nice to update the description with some of the info from the comments above.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Lemon Peel (5.10)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Nice route, bolted thoughtfully. Could be led by climbers aspiring to this grade.


Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags : High Times Wall
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: In my opinion, finding the rap anchors for The Green Mile or Da Kine Line with the beta from this webpage is very unlikely... we failed, anyway. We followed intermittent cairns to to climber's right and found some rap anchors that took us to the base in 3 or 4 single-rope raps. It deposited us to the right of DKL. I don't know what we rapped.

Even after climbing DKL, I don't think I could find the top anchors again if I tried. Down-climbing to them is blind and relatively long.


Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags : High Times Wall : Da Kine Line (5.10a)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 2 has a pretty serious runout, at least the way we went. Not great for the second either. I didn't see a "Thank God chickenhead", but there were good holds after a slabby bit... maybe the description is referring to a very positive horn that I saw? But that comes after some good gear opportunities.


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Tradistan Tower : Nuggernaut (5.8)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Nice climb. You can climb many different minor variations, and if you're confident on 5.8. The faces next to the dihedral are lovely and offer just enough protection. A standard trad rack was fine. Tri-cams were most useful.

Approach: about 1.5 hours total. After leaving the valley trail at Indian Creek, follow cairns as much as possible; they mark about about two-thirds of the ascent. From the valley to the base of the climb is almost exactly 1000 feet and took us about an hour at a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 21, 2002

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Comments: I did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. Great fun. I had done the first pitch a few years ago, possibly with the the original poster Mr. Wehner hisself. I also made it up the second pitch this time, which I don't think I've been on before. I pulled through the roof okay but was bewildered by the slab beyond, despite thinking that I was good on slabs. I made it through after grabbing a draw and choosing a new line. I was delighted to see my second make the same route-finding error... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Scratchy Face (5.10d)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: The ledge that you stand on underneath the roof mentioned above is really a giant flake. The left 3-4 feet has broken off and is just teetering (literally) on the remaining flake below. It might be worth cleaning this extremely loose block although it is left of where anyone would really want to go on this climb, but I stepped on it nevertheless.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Io (5.11b)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: This line has good rock and fun moves. It has quite a bit of lichen. I didn't think it detracted that much, but my second found it extremely unpleasant. You can go to the second anchor in one push with a 60m; you don't even need to have your belayer walk up the ramp to the start of the bolts.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Orbital Ridge (5.10b)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 5, 2002

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Comments: Whoops, I meant to write "step right" at the top off the OW flake.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 17, 2002

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Comments: The pin looked excellent (I thought it might even be recent?) as of 7/5/2002. (I'd suppose I'd agree with A.C. that one could take a few RPs "just in case" -- they're so damn light! I guess I take a few on most granite for that reason.)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 15, 2002

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Comments: I think is a GREAT route! Referring to the last climber's comments: yes, this could be called tedious in the same way that, say, Indian Creek is tedious: there certainly is a repetition of the same style of climbing, but it's super classic nevertheless!

I found the climb itself went slowly since I'm pretty conservative/timid and thus I took time to study the wall above as I moved up -- there seemed to be plenty of routefinding to do.

Some beta: From the base of the dihedral you can climb the a... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 10, 2002

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Comments: I did this a few (4?) years ago. Indeed, it went clean even for an unimaginative aid climber as myself. We bivied on the top of the Green Pillar -- I think there was enough room to bivy comfortably. I can't say for sure because we set up the ledge+fly anyway due to the intermittent hosing from snowmelt above. We also added two 3/8" SS bolts (total) at the fixed belays: one at a belay 1-2 pitches below Table Ledge (table roof) and another at the belay at Table Ledge. (Some have criticized these t... more >>