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Member Since: Jul 10, 2002
Last Visit: Feb 10, 2014
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All (13) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos | Comments (7) | Posts | Stars (5) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 21, 2002

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Comments: I did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. Great fun. I had done the first pitch a few years ago, possibly with the the original poster Mr. Wehner hisself. I also made it up the second pitch this time, which I don't think I've been on before. I pulled through the roof okay but was bewildered by the slab beyond, despite thinking that I was good on slabs. I made it through after grabbing a draw and choosing a new line. I was delighted to see my second make the same route-finding error... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Scratchy Face (5.10d)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: The ledge that you stand on underneath the roof mentioned above is really a giant flake. The left 3-4 feet has broken off and is just teetering (literally) on the remaining flake below. It might be worth cleaning this extremely loose block although it is left of where anyone would really want to go on this climb, but I stepped on it nevertheless.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Io (5.11b)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: This line has good rock and fun moves. It has quite a bit of lichen. I didn't think it detracted that much, but my second found it extremely unpleasant. You can go to the second anchor in one push with a 60m; you don't even need to have your belayer walk up the ramp to the start of the bolts.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Orbital Ridge (5.10b)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Aug 5, 2002

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Comments: Whoops, I meant to write "step right" at the top off the OW flake.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 17, 2002

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Comments: The pin looked excellent (I thought it might even be recent?) as of 7/5/2002. (I'd suppose I'd agree with A.C. that one could take a few RPs "just in case" -- they're so damn light! I guess I take a few on most granite for that reason.)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 15, 2002

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Comments: I think is a GREAT route! Referring to the last climber's comments: yes, this could be called tedious in the same way that, say, Indian Creek is tedious: there certainly is a repetition of the same style of climbing, but it's super classic nevertheless!

I found the climb itself went slowly since I'm pretty conservative/timid and thus I took time to study the wall above as I moved up -- there seemed to be plenty of routefinding to do.

Some beta: From the base of the dihedral you can climb the a... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)
By: Kevin Frederick When: Jul 10, 2002

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Comments: I did this a few (4?) years ago. Indeed, it went clean even for an unimaginative aid climber as myself. We bivied on the top of the Green Pillar -- I think there was enough room to bivy comfortably. I can't say for sure because we set up the ledge+fly anyway due to the intermittent hosing from snowmelt above. We also added two 3/8" SS bolts (total) at the fixed belays: one at a belay 1-2 pitches below Table Ledge (table roof) and another at the belay at Table Ledge. (Some have criticized these t... more >>