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KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd


Member Since: Mar 20, 2002
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,390
Total Points: 448
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 6
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1077 | Routes | Areas | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 123 | Posts 692 | Stars 151 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Niagaravation (M4-5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: How about first reported ascent? You snooze, you lose! :D


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Oak Creek Falls (WI5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Regarding the approach, you DEFINITELY don't leave the trail at 8,400'. That is waaay too low unless you want to climb the drainage which is not recommended. Looks like the thing to do is continue up the Old Twin Peaks trail to the junction with the Twin Peaks Trail at around 9,000' and continue left/SW until above the climb. Scope out the terrain above the climb well from town beforehand and pick out some landmarks so you know when to start contouring/dropping down to the top.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Bride's Veil aka Skyrocket (WI5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: This climb is generally known to locals and in Roberts' guidebooks as Skyrocket which makes sense since it is in the Skyrocket Creek drainage.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Battle Range
By: Kevin Craig When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Couple of notes... although the land grant for Battle Abbey was obtained by Hans Gmoser (founder of what became CMH) the Battle Abbey hut was mainly built by Bill Putnam (with significant assistance from Roger Laurilla and others) after Putnam ceded the Fairy Meadows hut to the ACC. Battle Abbey is currently managed by Roger and Hans' son Robson and is not part of the CMH network of heli-ski lodges.

The hut has occasionally been used by mountaineers though access to the larger peaks in the r... more >>


Location: CO : Jack Roberts Memorial Celeb...
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Many thanks to all who arranged and made the memorial possible. A great tribute with very moving recollections and even some light-hearted moments. Appropriate to the man he was. May we all carry him in our hearts until we join him, as we all must one day.

Please post information on how we can get copies of the "grey hair and gravity" excerpts featuring Jack that were shown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower
By: Kevin Craig When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: As the author of the FHRC application to install the "new" rap anchor, I'd like to plead with/remind people to use this anchor on the Wind Tower as a RAP ANCHOR ***NOT*** as a belay anchor (or dog forbid, TR anchor). It was installed to make descending from the top of the Bomb/Reggae/West Overhang area safer/easier and to preserve the former rap tree. Belaying from this anchor clogs up an already crowded descent even more, and there are plenty of good gear placements on the larger ledges above... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Crack N' Up (5.4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: Definitely not R though you want a #1, 2, and 3 Camalot for the top (if you like lots of gear like I do). Felt pretty similar grade-wise to New Toy (5.6) across the way, but I climbed it early season and I'm not a huge fan of off-width, thrutchy climbing. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area, plus you can TR Stegosaurus from the bolted top-anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Eye (5.4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: If you don't want to scramble down the back side and have a 70m rope, you can use the rap anchors on the SW face shown in the new Miramontes (sp?) guidebook (he says the rap is 100' but it's longer). Go through the tunnel, turn right then go west through a gully until you see the chains. A 60m will leave you about 15-20' short but on down-climbable terrain if you carefully (sic) rap off the ends of your rope(be careful to hang onto one end or you'll have a nasty solo to retrieve it for pulling... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Alcove/Pic of the Vic area ... : Abridgement (WI4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Just for consistency on the site, if Paranoia is graded WI4-5 this should be 4-5 as well. I don't recall Paranoia ever being dead vertical and this definitely is at the start. Special consideration is also due as it's in the Lead Only area and good protection near the bottom can be fiddly to secure due to chandeliering. I led this before they upgraded the water system though, so it could be easier now. Pretty sure it's 4-5 in the original Ice Park guides, too.

VERY cool position (for the ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Alcove/Pic of the Vic area ... : Whitt's World (WI4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Just for consistency on the site, if Paranoia is graded WI4-5 this and Abridgement should be 4-5 as well. I don't recall Paranoia ever being dead vertical and these definitely are at the start. Special consideration is also due as they're in the Lead Only area and good protection near the bottom can be fiddly to secure due to chandeliering. I led these before they upgraded the water system though, so they could be easier now. Pretty sure they're 4-5 in the original Ice Park guides, too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : West Mongolia : ... : Yellow Peril (5.5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Nov 17, 2010

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Comments: Climbs of this grade in Josh are often choss, unprotectable, sand-bagged or all three. This is actually a decently long, quality route with good pro on good rock. The bolted route to the right, "Asian Fever," is good too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : Little Rock Candy Crack (5.7)
By: Kevin Craig When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: A bit easier than most other 5.7's in the Park and in the general area (e.g. Lazy Day which I led the day before). Make sure to take your time and find the easiest, most positive way up the initial horizontals and place good gear once you're high enough that it'll keep you off the deck. Generally excellent pro after the first 10 feet. Most easily done as a face climb using the crack for pro. One #3 Camalot for the pod at top crux, otherwise mainly nuts and small to medium cams.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Kevin Craig When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Uh, yeah. People will be inspired to try climbing for the first time on an 11b/c route? Verdict: Ego route. Penalty: Back to the gym, boyz.

- edit to remove last comment -


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: P1 feels a bit contrived but has fun moves and nice position. P2 is fantastic, consistent climbing. I agree that it could mostly be sewn up with gear (might be a bit dicey around the dihedral), but I still enjoyed it as a sport climb (and I'm mostly a traddie). Thanks, guys, for putting this and the other routes up on Tonnere. Cool area with great rock. Hint: make sure you save some energy and hand strength for going back across the Tyrolean.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Kevin Craig When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: Ah! You're supposed to traverse in from the right! Doh! I tried the direct start, and didn't have my trad gear with me, and found it harder than anything on 5th of July so I'd say 5.9 at least (but then I'm a fat b*stard, and overhangs with slabby feet are not my specialty - even if they do have juggy holds).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Au Natural (5.8)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Another option is to climb up to the right, place the #2 Camalot on a double-length sling then down-climb a bit and do the traverse left to the anchors above Minstrel. Good edges for the feet, but a bit balance-y and difficult/impossible to protect the second on the traverse. Felt like 7+ or 8 for a move or two done this way (BoCan grades; 5.6 in Eldo ;^).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : High Hard One (5.9+)
By: Kevin Craig When: Aug 8, 2009

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Comments: This is a good route if you want to see what 9(+) slab is like. Bolts at the top are placed at a very safe (i.e. close) distance. Nice movement: arm-stemmy-down-pressury-body-tensiony-tiny-dish-smeary. Fun! (and I don't consider myself a 9 leader). "Nice job and thanks!" to whoever equipped this route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Kevin Craig When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: Was up in the Chasm Lake cirque on Sat. 6/20. The plan was to try The Window, but the 85+ degree in-town temps Fri. and lack of a hard freeze on Friday night was taking its toll on anything ice-like. Ended up doing most of Fields Chimney (mixed conditions) before rapping off as the last bit of ice was rotten, wet and poorly bonded. Bits and pieces of ice were falling on us from above all day. **IF** we were to get a couple of cold nights, the whole area would be going off, but it doesn't loo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Daedalus (5.5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: If you climb the discontinuous crack system above and slightly right of the big tree for P3, BEWARE! There is a HUGE DEATH FLAKE on the right just above the small pine tree that is growing in the crack about 20' down from the ridge crest. This appears to be a very obvious and good "hand-hold" but is VERY LOOSE. This is the crack system to the right of the line shown for Daedalus in the beta photo. If someone pulled it off or if it came off naturally, it would probably kill anyone on any of t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: Kevin Craig When: May 9, 2009

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Comments: Looking in TOPO! State Series maps for Colorado, it looks like the Wilderness boundary runs along the Treasure Mountain - Treasury Mountain ridge and the Chimneys of Treasure are north of the boundary i.e. not in the Wilderness. I could be wrong though and boundaries often change.

Appears that this whole area is part of the White River National Forest, but as we all know, there can be substantial in-holdings within NF boundaries. OTOH TOPO! does not show any large areas of mining c... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: For anyone else who isn't quite done with ice yet, Hidden Falls main is still in good shape for leading (as of 3/29) at the standard grade. Trail is well-packed - take a left just before the second auto bridge (just before the Ranger Station)


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride
By: Kevin Craig When: Feb 20, 2009

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Comments: Hiked up to the Silver Pick today. Thin (12-18" maybe) column at the bottom and about a 3" gap between the pillar and the "stalagmite" of ice at the base. No ice anywhere on any of the other "Silver" climbs in Roberts' guide. Access to lower Bear Ck Canyon appears to be problematic if we went the right way. Minimal trail w/ lots of postholing, and the creek is unfrozen so you can't walk up it. Didn't try for the upper canyon.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Kevin Craig When: Feb 18, 2009

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Comments: Ditto on Lee's comment on the Vic. We've stayed in one of the condos there for XMas - New Years for 6 or so years now plus one or two other weekends and this was the LAST YEAR. VERY POOR customer service and the new owners/managers are VERY "casual" about dealing with any complaint - even something as serious as NO working smoke alarms in the condo; I found it in a cabinet and had to buy a battery and install it myself! No drapes in one of the bedrooms ("oh well, that window doesn't... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 17, 2009

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Comments: Yesterday (1/16) P3 and part of P5 on Stairway were *pouring* water. As wet as I've ever seen it. Basically a solo. Otherwise, the climb is not nearly as fat as in past years at this time of year, but still a good romp.

P1 of Whorehouse has a big horizontal crack about 3/4 of the way up (1/17). We didn't notice it until after we rapped so obviously it's still climbable and is probably healed, but be aware. Right option for the last pitch is much thinner than a couple of weeks ago and pret... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 7, 2009

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Comments: From driving by on Sunday 1/4, Firehouse, Spiral Stairs and the Pumphouse all looked fat. The Dez is in but looks to have a Fang-like overhanging curtain at the top. The Fang is not connected but both halves were there.


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