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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact kenr

Point Rank: # 82
Total Points: 5,396
Last Year: 3,844
Last 30 Days: 842
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 2375 | Routes 288 | Areas 66 | Photos 210 | Page Improvements 32 | Comments 380 | Posts 847 | Stars 439 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : East End : Monkey Bar : Monkey Zig (5.11c)
By: kenr When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: I still haven't gotten the redpoint (even on Top-Rope).

The holds are there, but I have not yet found the strength/endurance to make the traverse sequence go.

So the First Ascent awaits a better / stronger climber.
. . ? (or me on a better / stronger day) ?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : Grépon (above)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: My first multi-pitch climb at Rush was in August 2016 with Neil from Mammoth Lakes. Since he's way more experienced than me at this sort of thing, he led all the pitches.

We started by scoping out the overall crag from the road by the Grant Lake Overlook. Decided that in the upper sector Grepon, a good bet for sound rock would be right center -- a bit right of an irregular large tree (bunch of less-large trees?) at the center of the upper wall. Then we hiked to the south end... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Notch between S summit and N summit -- escape without a rope?

I checked this out from the bottom a couple of weeks ago. Climbed up the rather wide notch to about three-quarters from the top, tried several alternative to go higher but didn't like them. Then climbed back down to the bottom.

I'd say the lower two-thirds is easiest along the south side of the gully (descender's left). A few moves of 4th class, mostly 3rd class.

But aroun... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: I think Tomko's report shows that rappelling down the West side from the South summit or south before it is difficult.
. (Just looking at the whole west side from the approach, I saw big tall expanses of rock south from the south summit).

I think what works much better is to keep going on a bit further north past the South summit, down into the notch between the South summit and North summit -- usually said to be a 5.2 down-climb (see comments above by donaldm and o... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North Ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Rappeling off the North summit:
Here's some careful instructions which Steven Cooney sent me - (after getting down the West face of the North summit by rappels with a single 60-meter rope in early June 2016) . . .

Need to be sure your rope is a full 60 meters -- no cutting off some from an end.

First rappel is 15 feet from the summit register. There is a large flake that you step down to. Very sturdy slings and r... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : 7-Midi : Odysseus (5.11b)
By: kenr When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: If bolts are ever introduced to this route (and I'm not suggesting that they should) ... might be nice to install an intermediate anchor just before the first crux, so that less-strong climbers could enjoy the lower 70% of the route -- perhaps with belay from the bottom).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab
By: kenr When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Getting there ...
Parking: GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.3752 W118.6767), at a pull-out on right (NW) side of the main Pine Creek road, which is about 0.35 mile SSW up-canyon from the turn-off for the parking for Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's Crack Gully. If you drive up to where the road crosses the creek over a bridge with guardrails, you've gone too far: so turn ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Locals Only (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Very fun route on Top-Rope.

Sharon and I got access to the 2-bolt top anchor by first climbing up the much easier North Ridge route. Neither of us felt any need for directional protection.

70 meter rope was just long enough so we could belay our Top-Roping from the bottom.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Locals Only (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Variation: The topo diagram in the print guidebook 4th edition by Marty Lewis about 25 feet up follows the left-side flake (which sort of faces right). But we found it more interesting (and strenuous) to climb the right-side flake (which faces left) - difficulty around 5.8


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Get Lost (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Very fun route on Top-Rope.

Sharon and I got access to the top by first climbing up the much easier North Ridge route. For our top anchor, we used the 2-bolt anchor of the Locals Only route, with trad directional protection both near the top, and midway over the Get Lost route.

70 meter rope was just long enough so we could belay our Top-Roping from the bottom.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock
By: kenr When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: The down-climb to the North from the top is tricky to figure out from above. And the upper crux is arguably harder than 4th class -- a balancy sequence likely scary and difficult while hauling the weight of a full rack of Trad protection and/or climbing rope.
. (So could be smart to first try climbing it upward ahead of time).

Also note this ...

The latest print guidebook (4th edition) by Marty Lewis suggests starting the North-side descent with a short rappel.

Anchor: As of August 2... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin
By: kenr When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: The final uphill has a short section that's getting rather rutted. So if you don't have a serious high-clearance 4WD vehicle, good to have a plan for how to turn around and park a bit lower.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin : ... : Unknown (5.10c)
By: kenr When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: I think in the Marty Lewis 4th edition guidebook, this route is named "Rose Marie" (a character on the Dick Van Dyke Show - ancient TV).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Marzipan (5.10a)
By: kenr When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, I changed the FA entry in response to that.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : East End : The Nose : Right Sinus (5.8)
By: kenr When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: Pernaps the real crux is down low, getting established in the corner.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Flame Thrower (5.11c)
By: kenr When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: Now a mussy hooks anchor below the roof for those who want to stop there.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Starburst (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Sustained interesting thoughtful moves, but none individually is real hard.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : My Sweet Tooth (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Twix is the (wider) crack to the left of the My Sweet Tooth bolt line. The climber in photo 111076635 has his left hand up on the right edge of that crack.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Sunday Matinee Wall
By: kenr When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I did five routes.
All very interesting worthwhile climbing.
Wall close to vertical.
All had more abrasive rock than the (fun) (less-than-vertical) slab areas at Alabama Hills I've climbed.

All five way seemed to me harder than the difficulty ratings in the guidebook 3rd edition.

? Mayble some holds have broken off ? or some of more positive edges are missing ?
since the grades were assigned years previously?
A little thing broke off while I was climbing (and it had not rained recently).

M... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Dem Bones Wall
By: kenr When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: I created this sector page just to help people understand the layout of the areas when they're walking around looking for things. And so someone who wants to provide information or comments about a specific route will have an area to attach it to.

I hope someone with better local knowledge than me will take over this page -- and I will gladly hand off my "ownership" of this page any time a M.P. administrator wants to make that happen.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Philosophy Wall
By: kenr When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: I created this sector page just to help people understand the layout of the areas when they're walking around looking for things. And so someone who wants to provide information or comments about a specific route will have an area to attach it to.

I got the name of this sector from another website. If it's not right, let's get it fixed here.

I hope someone with better local knowledge than me will take over this page -- and I will gladly hand off my "ownership" of this page any time a M.P. admi... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : Busload of Faith (5.6)
By: kenr When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: Worthwhile climbing sustained at that difficulty grade.
If interesting easy face/slab climbing is what you're looking, Busload of Faith delivers. Not as hard as the crux sections of Catwalk, makes a good warmup for a new leader who wants to try Catwalk.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : Catwalk (5.7)
By: kenr When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: Busload of Faith and Catwalk start in almost the same place, just right from a foot-wide gully. But while Busload goes virtually straight up, Catwalk immediately aims a bit right, then strongly right toward the arete on the right side of the face.

The obvious esthetic line is to do the whole upper half directly on the arete. There's also an interesting way to step left higher up.

Top-Roping offers another different (half) line for the upper section. When reach the bolt in the middle of the tra... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : Gape Index (5.10c)
By: kenr When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: Now there is a diagonal bolt line (two or three bolts) starting 10-15 feet to the left and joining this route about 20-25 feet up.

The first 15 feet of this route is much harder than most of the upper two-thirds. The easy sections of the upper section are fun, then there's a more strenuous couple of moves just before the top.

Top-Rope: We did this route (and the left start variation) on top-rope from the Catwalk anchor. One of our climbers was not strong enough for the starting sequences, so a... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : The Wave (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves, many side-pulls.
Perhaps more fun on Top-Rope (easy to set up), because some of the side-pulls around the right-side arete felt like blind reaches.


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