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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 494
Total Points: 1,317
Last Year: 916
Last 30 Days: 65
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1135 | Routes 44 | Areas 12 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 245 | Posts 579 | Stars 117 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MD : Rocks State Park : Biceps Wall : The Crux (5.5)
By: kenr When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: Lots of fun moves on great holds. One or two long strenuous reaches that make it way harder than 5.5 even though the holds are positive.

If this were the second pitch of some route in the Gunks, it would be famous.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Fang This! (5.10-)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Interesting outdoor moves in the lower half, then a nice finish.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Hogwarts (5.9+)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Sustained fun thoughtful moves. If only this were longer. Might seem like 5.10 the first time.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Diagon Alley (5.8)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Interesting outdoor moves.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : Buckbeek (5.9+)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Interesting thoughtful moves.
Seemed fun to start to the right of below the pillar, then to its left, then onto the pillar.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall : The Handle (5.9)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Perhaps more interesting to start low right, close to protruding flake on the left side of Buckbeek.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Paper Mache (5.10)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Fun climbing on TR. I'll do it again.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Chopper Noise (5.9)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Fun climbing on TR. I'll do it again.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Chossy? (5.10)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Seemed much harder than 10. Lots of lichen covering.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Earth Dragon (5.9 PG13)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Fun up through the crux by the sapling. After that lots of dirty slopers. So if you like slopers, you might like this climb more -- but perhaps you'll want to clean them first.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall : Billy Get Your Guns (5.8 PG13)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Lower half was interesting, upper half less fun.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Dave's Wall : Fifty foot of love (5.10+ PG13)
By: kenr When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: The grammar of the title is copied from the 2011 print guidebook.

Nice variety of interesting moves. Too bad it's not longer. There are regions of USA where this route would be 5.11


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Dave's Wall : Thread the Gap (5.9 R)
By: kenr When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: I suspect the difficulty move to get up to the roof is height-related -- as in much harder if you're much less tall than 5ft 7inch (170cm) with normal reach.

My feeling is that the moves from the ground up to roof were interesting and thoughtful and fun. The moves through the rough were thoughtful and strenuous but did not feel so fun.

An older print guidebook offered this name for this route: Roofy Indirect Project. (I like the title above on this page better).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Johnson Route (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The obvious Top-Rope set from the rappel tree at the top of cliff goes down over the upper part of Johnson, on the climber's right side of the vertical "torpedo". So an obvious TR line is to start on Rachels Crack then traverse Right under the torpedo to finish on Johnson. Though doing all of Johnson from the bottom as a TR works fine also. Likely most climbers begin with some combination of Rachels and Johnson.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: I had the good luck a couple of weeks ago to run into a climber who knew lots more about the history and legalities than me -- said it’s too bad about the complexity of access to the PI Wall now with the change in policy of the railroad. Likely that influenced the USMA climbing team to decide not to hold their PI Wall festival/competition in Fall 2014.

Said that walking in alongside the train tracks is trespassing on railroad company right-of-way. But hiking in from the south across the hillsid... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Upper Level : 757 2x4 (5.7)
By: kenr When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Overall fun, with a variety of move situations. Thoughtful right off the ground. Thoughtful at the crux mid-way.

An advantage of the higher positiong of top anchor is can use that to protect horizontal traverse Left to the top anchor of "Oils Well That Ends Well".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Bananarama (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Seemed not quite as difficult, not quite as thoughtful, as Rotten Bananas to its left.
Lots of fun moves on positive holds, well worth doing.

Leading this Sport route is also useful to afterward get down and right to reach the top anchor for Banana Split to set a Top-Rope on that route (which otherwise would require leading on big-size Trad gear).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Spur (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun route. Some people get confused about what to do high on the arete, so for them it's less fun.
Perhaps easier (and more fun?) if do not always climb close to the bolt line.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Rotten Bananas (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: A little harder, and a little more interesting than Bananarama


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Banana Split (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun Top-Rope from its anchor (which we reached from above left, from Bananarama anchor). Top half is a fun dihedral (we stayed away from the wide crack in the back). Bottom has variety of moves using crack in different ways.

top-rope Variation lower half: The face between the Bananarama bolts and the lower cracks. Interesting moves, felt like 10c or so.
. . (some questionable small flakes -- bottom belay should stand off to the side)

top-rope Variation upper half: The arete whic... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Grenoble : Vercors : ... : Tour des Gémeaux (5.9 PG13)
By: kenr When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: The first moves of P1 are very height dependent (FR "morpho").

The bolts at the crux of the route are very closely spaced. And the feet there are polished. So lots of people aid those couple of moves by using the bolts.

We simul-climbed some of the upper pitches.

The rappel descent route is not trivial to figure out.

My feeling is there's other routes in France with more fun climbing moves, better protection.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Ziggy's Overhang (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Walking access as of November 2014:
We saw a new sign beside the railroad track at the bottom of Station Rd, identified by "CSX corp" (? the railroad company ?) and saying "No Trespassing", with a standard pictorial symbol of a person walking with a circle around it and a diagonal slash over the person.

I don't know the legal issues or the history.

The PI Wall rock itself is at least 20 feet away from the railroad track. It's on the west side, so there is no need to cross the track in order t... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Triple Banger Overhanger (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: At my height the obvious line through the first overhang seemed very reachy (I didn't get it, on top-rope). I saw another bolt near the right side of the first overhang, so I tried that, which was not easy, with wicked slippery sloper hands to ledge above.

I sort of remember other reachy slopy stuff in other sections ... so if you're tall and like to make friends with slopy holds, you might enjoy this route.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Left (5.10d)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Seen from the ground, the crux overhang section looks blank for both hands and feet. Reaching it climbing from below left still feels blank and at first impossible.

Interesting (short) crux sequence -- made easier for me having earlier worked it its finish moves approaching from S&S Right.

Above that I trended right doing the same upper half as "S&S Right" . . . next several interesting 5.8-5.9 moves, finally lots of fun 5.6-5.7 to the top.

I don't remember seeing another line of bolts to the... more >>


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