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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 458
Total Points: 1,409
Last Year: 936
Last 30 Days: 94
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 1220 | Routes 49 | Areas 12 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 271 | Posts 592 | Stars 137 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Front Side : Darling Dainty Feet (5.11)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: The suggestion in the description above to use the arete to keep the difficulty in the 11 range is very appropriate.

The move slightly below mid-way is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach.

Some the hangers on the bolts might be old.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Brass Monkey (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Those two bolts are for a different route, called "5.10b" in the Rob Holzman guidebook.
. (My best guess would be that the strong climbers who first developed the Library just enjoyed soloing Brass Monkey -- as they did other routes of similar difficulty, e.g. Gray Face).


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Great Expectations (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: The crux is roughly straight up from the 3rd (top) bolt. Even though the two-bolt anchor is well to the right (N) of the 3rd bolt.

Crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft8inch with normal reach.

Location: Bolted line to the right of the tree stump which is about 4 feet right of a live tree. At least 10 feet left of the arete (with two bolts) and chimney.


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library : Main Block, Back Side : Warm Up Route (5.6)
By: kenr When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: A few months later today, it didn't seem so hard. Guess I'm getting better at seeing holds, positioning myself to use holds?


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Autumns Child (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Lots of thoughtful moves, sustained in difficulty, but not much variety.

Much harder than some of the 5.10a routes in the Gunks. I feel like it's at least as difficult as some 5.11b pitches I've done at some sport crags out West.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Birthday Girl (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: More sustained and interesting if in the lowest 10 feet, do not use any holds on (or right of) the Keneissiology crack.

If this is your first climb at Boxcar, the crux sequence might feel like 5.9
Only flaw is that it's much easier after the crux (but still nice moves).


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Curt's Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: maybe some contributors to MountainProject call this crack "Pebbles"?
But others reserve that word for the route on the face to its left.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) : Main Wall : Margies Curves - Left (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: No single crux, but sustained 5.6 (or 5.5?) moves. Only flaw is, not much variety.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Rachel's Crack (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: I agree with ml242 that finishing to the right on upper Johnsons adds more variety (pure face climbing) to the route. Also quicker to set up as a top-rope.

But I feel that the normal finish to Rachels is plenty interesting. And setting up the top-rope to the climber's left (west) of the torpedo for Rachels also permits (with a small adjustment in TR setup) top-roping "Tower Wall Direct", which is plenty interesting (more than Johnsons?).

Anyway I'll guess what most people do is not a link-up b... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Dead Tree Dihedral (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: This time I noted what protection I placed. Didn't place or see much use for anything larger than a #1 Camalot - (unless you've got truly big wide stuff for the lower crack). Lots of uses for stuff in the range of Mastercam 2 and 3. Small cams could be useful to place in horizontal under the roof Variation. Placed a couple of stoppers, one with an oppositional to hold it in place.

The less-difficult sections did not have as many opportunities to protect as the crux dihedral at mid-level (... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: kenr When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Crux might be fairly height+reach dependent.
We did it on top-rope. My partner was much taller, and it seemed that he could reach rock features which I could not -- not actual holds, but things he could use to pull/push himself more easily into balance over a critical dicey foothold at the upper crux. Not to mention that because he was taller his body was already more in balance over that foothold.

So he could get the move (with difficulty), while I could not even come close. But maybe I just ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Stockade Wall
By: kenr When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: As of the Adopt-a-Crag work day in May 2015, the base of the climbs was well trimmed for climbing access. And access to the big rocks on the wall above the Stockade (for possible Top-Rope anchors) was well trimmed.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Contortionist (5.9)
By: kenr When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: To me seemed like one strenuous move with some thought required for how to set up for it.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Cam's Cool Chimney (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb in an unusual rock configuration. The handholds for the two cruxy moves just before the roof, and the handholds for the traverse out from under the route were all wet -- but sufficiently positive that the climb was still do-able.

Exit from the traverse is also interesting (consider using handholds on both sides of the passage).

Doing it on Top-Rope without directional protection placements subjects to climber to a big swing if they fail on the hardest moves below the roof or at the s... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Crow's Nest Egg (5.10)
By: kenr When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: Looked like clear evidence (freshly exposed rock) that a key handhold had broken off recently, so the second crux is now way harder - (neither of us could get it).

For me the first crux is getting both hands established ont he horizontal. Likely much harder if you're much less than 5ft 9inch with normal reach. Second crux is getting into balance with feet on the next horizontal ledge above. (Maybe there's a third crux, but neither of us got that far).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Meryl's Crack (5.5 PG13)
By: kenr When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: Seems like maybe a hold or two broke off since this interesting route was first discovered.

For me the crux was a little below the little tree. Not using the little tree as a hold makes the difficulty more sustained and interesting.

I felt lots of thought needed for the crux sequence, also above it to get past the tree. Maybe the difficulty went down to 5.8 after several tries, so I found all the best holds and got the sequence wired. But on-sight it doesn't hurt to have the finger en... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Krassy (5.7 PG13)
By: kenr When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: We did it on Top-Rope, set with a static line from a tree.
Not sure what is meant by "the horizontal" -- We just climbed up the obvious small right-facing corner (with a crack I guess) about 10 feet left of My Climb is Ishmael and 10 feet right of Meryl's Crack.

Some fun moves - (would get more stars if it were longer).
Crux about three-quarters of the way up, thoughtful and a bit strenuous (because not much for the feet) - (pretty hard for a 5.7 climber).
. (next day did it again with a climbe... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Harpoon Me (5.9)
By: kenr When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Having done it twice on Top-Rope with different partners in different years, I think this is how the route should go:
Start under the right half of the Whalehunter roof. Work up the right-leaning diagonal crack to go around the right end of the roof. Traverse left like 6-10 feet, on footholds just above the roof, with hands on a wide sloping ledge. Step up onto the sloping ledge and grab a amall pillar, then roughly straight up to the top - (this finish takes a different line from the finish of... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : My Climb is Ishmael (5.8+)
By: kenr When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: The "roof" is the Whalehunter roof (perhaps not so small?). The "crack" is the off-width on the left side of the small arete which goes up to the Whalehunter crux sequence through the center of the route.
. (so the obvious way to start Whalehunter is on the right side of this small arete).

If do not use the tree, I felt the crux was getting off the ground. And then the next couple of moves not so easy. The rest is fun (if find the good holds).
. (using the tree in the starting moves is easier, ... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : Whalehunter (5.9)
By: kenr When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: We started on the right side of the small arete below the roof, then moved onto the arete just below the rood.
(unlike "My Climb is Ishmael" which starts on the left side of the arete).

I guess now that everybody practices roof moves on plastic all the time, some people feel like this one is only 5.9, but I'd say that the crux move on Whalehunter is obviously more strenuous than the hardest moves on some Gunks 9s, thinking of Ants Line and Bonnie's Roof.


Location: MD : Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
By: kenr When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: I visited and scrambled around exploring one day in May 2015. What I found was ...

In theory the wide ledge at the bottom of the Breakaway wall could be reached by scrambling up west from the route 24 road. But I found this was steep slabby dirty -- not something I'd ever do hauling gear or with ground even slightly wet. Also there's no legal parking along the road by there. Although that approach was mentioned in an old guidebook, it did not look like hardly anybody does that any more (now tha... more >>


Location: MD : Rocks State Park
By: kenr When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: I recorded some (approximate) locations with my GPS when I visited and climbed in May 2015:

parking lot low "rapids" -- (latitude longitude N39.6381 W76.4125)
. on the West side of route 24, just N of a maintenance building.
. about 1.15 mile north from the intersection with Cherry Hill Rd
. about 0.35 mile north from the intersection with Rocks Chrome Hill Rd
. about 0.25 mile south from the intersection with St Clair Bridge Rd

parking lot high "picnic" -- (N39.6351 W76.4158)
. reached by d... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall
By: kenr When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: getting there: What we did was walk about 75 meters roughly East from the parking (GPS latitude longitude approx N39.81204 W77.48292) on the wide trail msrked with blue paint. Then turned Left off that and walked 50 meters roughly North to the top of the cliff (which our GPS gave as lat long (N39.81260 W77.48194).

The pinnacle whose North face forms the left (East) side of the main wall has approx latitude longitude (N39.81255 W77.48152).

Hermitage Cabin: Our GPS places the cabin at lat long (... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Hipster (5.5)
By: kenr When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: Not sure from this description (because it's relative to the other climbs who's location I'm not sure of), but I'm assuming it means
the obvious gully (rather wide at its bottom) - which is 10-15 feet left from the Grungie gully (which is about 10 feet left of the obvious Blazing Saddles inside corner) - and to the right of Leap of Faith.

I wouldn't call it a "crack system", just a gully which is wide at the bottom and gets narrow higher up. Gets steeper higher up, but I might call it a "shall... more >>


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Blazing Saddles (5.6)
By: kenr When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: The main overhang is pretty close to the ground. Higher up the corner leans overhanging (but the climbing moves are not necessarily overhanging). Thoughtful moves the whole way, pretty sustained in difficulty.

Indirect variation (5.4): Start by climbing the first 10-15 feet of the Grungie gully (left of Blazing Saddles inside corner). Then bear right into the wide inside corner between Grungie and Blazing Saddles. Climb up this to just below a little roof, then step right into the Blazin... more >>


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