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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 515
Total Points: 1,206
Last Year: 805
Last 30 Days: 52
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 925 | Routes 42 | Areas 11 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 224 | Posts 446 | Stars 96 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Ziggy's Overhang (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Walking access as of November 2014:
We saw a new sign beside the railroad track at the bottom of Station Rd, identified by "CSX corp" (? the railroad company ?) and saying "No Trespassing", with a standard pictorial symbol of a person walking with a circle around it and a diagonal slash over the person.

I don't know the legal issues or the history.

The PI Wall rock itself is at least 20 feet away from the railroad track. It's on the west side, so there is no need to cross the track in order t... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Triple Banger Overhanger (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: At my height the obvious line through the first overhang seemed very reachy (I didn't get it, on top-rope). I saw another bolt near the right side of the first overhang, so I tried that, which was not easy, with wicked slippery sloper hands to ledge above.

I sort of remember other reachy slopy stuff in other sections ... so if you're tall and like to make friends with slopy holds, you might enjoy this route.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Left (5.10d)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Seen from the ground, the crux overhang section looks blank for both hands and feet. Reaching it climbing from below left still feels blank and at first impossible.

Interesting (short) crux sequence -- made easier for me having earlier worked it its finish moves approaching from S&S Right.

Above that I trended right doing the same upper half as "S&S Right" . . . next several interesting 5.8-5.9 moves, finally lots of fun 5.6-5.7 to the top.

I don't remember seeing another line of bolts to the... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Cadet Buster (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: To me the crux moves seemed harder than anything on Nosedive in the Gunks. And I felt it was trickier to see even a workable strategy for the crux. Since Nosedive is rated 10b, perhaps Cadet Buster could be rated 10c (but it's less sustained than Nosedive).
(so then Karl said, "Nosedive used to be rated 5.9")


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Right (5.10a/b)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Thoughtful moves up to the obvious overhang, then tricky to figure out how to get through it. Followed by lots of interesting 5.8-5.9 moves above. Followed by fun 5.6-5.7 moves to the top.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Nose (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Steel carabiners on the anchor bolts now, for convenient top-roping.

Sustained interesting climbing.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Side Pull Plus (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Sustained interesting moves -- with lots of side-pulls.

Can be top-roped with a short rappel from above the top of the cliff down to the anchor bolts.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Message to Garcia (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Interesting varied crux sequence, sustained at the difficulty grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: North end of South mini-tower:
Charles and I spent some time working on this section while climbing the N ridge last summer. Here's what I took away from it:
The N arete and the E side of the arete looked way more difficult than anything else on the Matthes Crest N ridge or S ridge.
Which left the NorthWest side ...
We found it was easier to first traverse around to its W side, perhaps after dropping down 10 feet below notch, then rising traverse on narrow ledge. Charles got some protection wit... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Static (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Good slab-climbing practice.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Elmer Fudd (5.3)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Lots of thoughtful moves at the difficulty grade.

The name given for this route in one of the earlier guidebooks was rather negative and based on a situation which is no longer factual. So in keeping with its neighbor, here we have proposed the name of another Looney Tunes cartoon human character.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Yosemite Sam (5.5)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Thoughtful interesting moves the whole way. Completely different from indoor climbing. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun moves on positive holds. If only this were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Blank This (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I have not had time to do this one yet, so the description above is based on the guidebook.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Wicked Whoa (5.9)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Good moves suatained for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable.
Very much in need of cleaning moss as of 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Fo Shoa! (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Good moves for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable. Could use some cleaning of moss off holds.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Moat 'Fo (5.5)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps this route had a more interesting and difficult finish before the big tree fell down over it.
Sharon and I did not find it very worthwhile in 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Crimp Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Sustianed interesing thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Frog Spit (5.7)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: One tough move in the middle, and the rest is interesting enough.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : White Lightning (5.9)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Interesting thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Father (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: I will guess that the first crux (which I did not get on Top-Rope) is into the 11 range.

Not sure what the upper half is supposed to be ("challenging finish"?).
Continuing the obvious way up the R-facing corner is interesting climbing, but nowhere near the given 10+ difficulty. I'm guessing perhaps the idea is to finish on the face to the left of the corner?


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Son (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Lots of the key holds are positive horizontals -- so it's reachy. There are some long-ish deadpoints at 5ft7inch height. I'd guess for anyone much less than 5ft7inch tall (170cm) with normal reach, it really is like 10+


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Guido (5.8+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I think the ceiling to the left of this route's start -- about 10 feet up with a bolt just above it -- is called "Meatball", around 5.10a. Interesting moves over the roof (I did it on top-rope).
Then it's not clear to me how to distinguish upper section of Meatball from upper section of Guido - (I assume the bolts farther left are for the Stardust route). Anyway interesting enough on top-rope.

We also used the first ten feet of Guido as an alternate (more fun?) start for Beginners Crack. And i... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Beginner's Crack (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Lots of interesting thoughtful moves.

Many beginners will find the low-mid crux (about 25 feet up) perplexing.

But almost all beginners will find the upper traverse leftward not only perplexing but strenuous for finger-grip. And with any fall subject to substantial side-swing if done as top-rope from either of the cliff-top bolt-pair anchors.

Better for real beginners is to try the "Beginners Top-Rope Face" route first, which offers less-complicated lessons in beginner techniques.
Then plan ... more >>


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