Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact kenr


Point Rank: # 515
Total Points: 1,218
Last Year: 817
Last 30 Days: 24
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 975 | Routes 42 | Areas 11 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 230 | Posts 473 | Stars 101 | Ratings 35
Page 1 of 10.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : 757 2x4 (5.7)
By: kenr When: Dec 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Overall fun, with a variety of move situations. Thoughtful right off the ground. Thoughtful at the crux mid-way.

An advantage of the higher positiong of top anchor is can use that to protect horizontal traverse Left to the top anchor of "Oils Well That Ends Well".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Bananarama (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed not quite as difficult, not quite as thoughtful, as Rotten Bananas to its left.
Lots of fun moves on positive holds, well worth doing.

Leading this Sport route is also useful to afterward get down and right to reach the top anchor for Banana Split to set a Top-Rope on that route (which otherwise would require leading on big-size Trad gear).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Spur (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route. Some people get confused about what to do high on the arete, so for them it's less fun.
Perhaps easier (and more fun?) if do not always climb close to the bolt line.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Rotten Bananas (5.7)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A little harder, and a little more interesting than Bananarama


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Banana Split (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun Top-Rope from its anchor (which we reached from above left, from Bananarama anchor). Top half is a fun dihedral (we stayed away from the wide crack in the back). Bottom has variety of moves using crack in different ways.

top-rope Variation lower half: The face between the Bananarama bolts and the lower cracks. Interesting moves, felt like 10c or so.
. . (some questionable small flakes -- bottom belay should stand off to the side)

top-rope Variation upper half: The arete whic... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Grenoble : Vercors : ... : Tour des Gémeaux (5.9 PG13)
By: kenr When: Nov 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first moves of P1 are very height dependent (FR "morpho").

The bolts at the crux of the route are very closely spaced. And the feet there are polished. So lots of people aid those couple of moves by using the bolts.

We simul-climbed some of the upper pitches.

The rappel descent route is not trivial to figure out.

My feeling is there's other routes in France with more fun climbing moves, better protection.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Ziggy's Overhang (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Walking access as of November 2014:
We saw a new sign beside the railroad track at the bottom of Station Rd, identified by "CSX corp" (? the railroad company ?) and saying "No Trespassing", with a standard pictorial symbol of a person walking with a circle around it and a diagonal slash over the person.

I don't know the legal issues or the history.

The PI Wall rock itself is at least 20 feet away from the railroad track. It's on the west side, so there is no need to cross the track in order t... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Triple Banger Overhanger (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: At my height the obvious line through the first overhang seemed very reachy (I didn't get it, on top-rope). I saw another bolt near the right side of the first overhang, so I tried that, which was not easy, with wicked slippery sloper hands to ledge above.

I sort of remember other reachy slopy stuff in other sections ... so if you're tall and like to make friends with slopy holds, you might enjoy this route.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Left (5.10d)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Seen from the ground, the crux overhang section looks blank for both hands and feet. Reaching it climbing from below left still feels blank and at first impossible.

Interesting (short) crux sequence -- made easier for me having earlier worked it its finish moves approaching from S&S Right.

Above that I trended right doing the same upper half as "S&S Right" . . . next several interesting 5.8-5.9 moves, finally lots of fun 5.6-5.7 to the top.

I don't remember seeing another line of bolts to the... more >>


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Cadet Buster (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: To me the crux moves seemed harder than anything on Nosedive in the Gunks. And I felt it was trickier to see even a workable strategy for the crux. Since Nosedive is rated 10b, perhaps Cadet Buster could be rated 10c (but it's less sustained than Nosedive).
(so then Karl said, "Nosedive used to be rated 5.9")


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : S&S Right (5.10a/b)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thoughtful moves up to the obvious overhang, then tricky to figure out how to get through it. Followed by lots of interesting 5.8-5.9 moves above. Followed by fun 5.6-5.7 moves to the top.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Nose (5.8)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Steel carabiners on the anchor bolts now, for convenient top-roping.

Sustained interesting climbing.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Side Pull Plus (5.9-)
By: kenr When: Nov 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sustained interesting moves -- with lots of side-pulls.

Can be top-roped with a short rappel from above the top of the cliff down to the anchor bolts.


Location: NY : West Point : Poison Ivy Wall : Message to Garcia (5.10+)
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting varied crux sequence, sustained at the difficulty grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Oct 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: North end of South mini-tower:
Charles and I spent some time working on this section while climbing the N ridge last summer. Here's what I took away from it:
The N arete and the E side of the arete looked way more difficult than anything else on the Matthes Crest N ridge or S ridge.
Which left the NorthWest side ...
We found it was easier to first traverse around to its W side, perhaps after dropping down 10 feet below notch, then rising traverse on narrow ledge. Charles got some protection wit... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Static (5.8-)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good slab-climbing practice.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Elmer Fudd (5.3)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Lots of thoughtful moves at the difficulty grade.

The name given for this route in one of the earlier guidebooks was rather negative and based on a situation which is no longer factual. So in keeping with its neighbor, here we have proposed the name of another Looney Tunes cartoon human character.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : Yosemite Sam (5.5)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thoughtful interesting moves the whole way. Completely different from indoor climbing. If only this route were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun moves on positive holds. If only this were longer.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Blank This (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I have not had time to do this one yet, so the description above is based on the guidebook.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Wicked Whoa (5.9)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good moves suatained for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable.
Very much in need of cleaning moss as of 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Fo Shoa! (5.6)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good moves for practicing slab climbing, but unremarkable. Could use some cleaning of moss off holds.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Moat 'Fo (5.5)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Perhaps this route had a more interesting and difficult finish before the big tree fell down over it.
Sharon and I did not find it very worthwhile in 2014.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Swamp King : Crimp Crack (5.7)
By: kenr When: Sep 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sustianed interesing thoughtful moves. If only this route were longer.


Page 1 of 10.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>