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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact kenr

Point Rank: # 155
Total Points: 3,372
Last Year: 2,140
Last 30 Days: 47
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 1843 | Routes 175 | Areas 43 | Photos 110 | Page Improvements 25 | Comments 352 | Posts 741 | Stars 303 | Ratings 94
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : East Face Hueco (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps this line should be seen as a Variation rather than a separate Route.
Either way ... I see it as a way to get some additional fun climbing out of the same Top-Rope anchor and directional.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Escuche Vaca Heard (5.9 X)
By: kenr When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: See routes photo.

That initial sequence on the left-trending flake is not only strenuous but a bit awkward. Much harder than the rest of the (more fun) climbing above.

We set up a Top-Rope on this route by using the two-bolt anchor for Leonosphere with a directional sling around a small horn along the ridge crest about twelve feet east from that anchor - (and also used that anchor with directional setup to Top-Rope three other routes to the left of... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library
By: kenr When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Getting There ...
Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradi... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Perched Ramparts: Enclosure... : Enclosure : Valhalla (5.11)
By: kenr When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: As of November 2015, the bottom of this route is blocked by an impenetrable mass of nasty thorns / prickers.
So I haven't tried it yet.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Perched Ramparts: Enclosure... : Enclosure : Feels Like Climbing to Me (5.5)
By: kenr When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: As of 2015, the base of this route is covered with a deep layer of impenetrable nasty prickers + thorns.
So I haven't tried it yet.

. . (Since this route is between two with names from Norse mythology -- a valkyrie and the resting place of fallen heroes -- perhaps it deserves a Norse name, perhaps including another valkyrie Brynhildr who gave the decision for the result of a battle).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Estimating the Approach:
Getting up to Basilisk from parking on Torne Valley Rd is about
+220 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.65 mile (+67m vert over 1.05km). Typical approach times 13-30 minutes.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Estimating the Approach:
The usual way most people get up to Good Book Wall nowadays is about
+330 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.65 mile (+100m vert over 1.05km) from parking on Torne Valley Rd. Typical approach times 18-35 minutes.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Estimating the Approach:
The usual way most people get up to Tower Wall nowadays is about
+210 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.45 mile (+65m vert over 0.72km) from parking on Torne Valley Rd. Typical approach times 10-23 minutes.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Getting There:
Puzzle Palace crag is at (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1455 W74.1645)

From parking on Torne Valley Rd, go first to the Tower Wall (GPS lat long ~ N41.1450 W74.1652), then walk ENE roughly flat 360 feet (110 meters). Then at (N41.1454 W74.1641) just before the trail curves right down steep, turn off Left onto a steep loose trail. Scramble up this 130 feet (40 meters) NorthWest then West to the base of [[Puzzl... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Sunny Picnics : Rodeo Clown (V2) : Photo
By: kenr When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I'm not much into boulder problems (yet). I'm happy to take the time to set up top-ropes to save me from sprained ankles and back. After rehearsing on top-rope, Brian sent it as a boulder problem, then scrambled down to the Right (past the much easier boulder problem, easy enough so I did feel confident to send it without rope myself).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Hung Like Benedict (5.10)
By: kenr When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: for link to route Topo photo
and different description ...
See on This Page


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Major John Andre (5.8+ R)
By: kenr When: Nov 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: for link to route Topo photo
and different description ...
See on This Page


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Devonshire Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Nov 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: for link to route Topo photo
and different description ...
See on This Page


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati...
By: kenr When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: The turnoff from route 498 onto the gravel road for Flat Holler and Sore Heel and Bald Rock psrking is at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.6363 W83.7160).

The new Flat Holler parking in on the left side (just past the turn-off right going up steep-ish hill to the Sore Heel parking) at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.6466 W83.7200). From there can walk about 500 feet back East on the road to the new trailhead for Sore Heel, turn Left and hike North uphill about 0.25 mile to the Sore Heel pa... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Dynabolt Gold (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Stick-clipping the first bolt seemed pretty difficult, because the shape of the rock below it makes it hard to get a suitable angle with the stick, and for the similar cause it's hard to see the bolt when you get close enough to the rock.

So today instead Karl stick-clipped the first bolt on Bitter Ray of Sunshine route to the left of Dynabolt Gold, yarded up (since he had climbed the tricky mantle earlier in the day). Then scrambled up diagonal right to the first bolt on Diagonal Gold, put a d... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : A Brief History of Climb (5.10c)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: The bolts are kind of far apart in the upper section with the (admittedly juggy) fun big plates. I wouldn't want to fail making a clip there.
. (but the tricky crux lower down is well protected).


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Another way to get to the Gallery ...
especially useful for those with vehicles which lack High Clearance ...
is to
Park at the bottom on the left side (just past the turn-off right going up steep-ish hill to the Sore Heel parking) in the Flat Holler parking (GPS latitude longitude approx N37.6466 W83.7200). Then walk about 500 feet back East on the road to the new trailhead for Sore Heels, turn Left and hike North uphill about 0.25 mile to the Sore Heel parking. Then perhaps turn shar... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Happy Trails (5.10d)
By: kenr When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Karl and I climbed this on Top-Rope yesterday and both thought it was very interesting and had good variety. It's true that the upper section has lots of small slopers, but we found it fun to figure out how to grasp them in just the right way. Made it different from other routes. On lead I imagine this would just be scary, not fun.

I think this route would get more quality stars from more climbers if the upper section had bolts more closely spaced.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Enclosure
By: kenr When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: As of November 2015, most of the base of the Enclosure is covered with a deep layer of impenetrable nasty prickers + thorns. The only route known to be accessible without prickers is Sigrun's Choice.

? Alternate Access ? Perhaps it might be possible scramble up to the base of the Enclosure area from around the far right end of the Sunny Picnics area. But this is blocked by prickers and fallen logs (as of November 2015).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Corner of Terror (5.6)
By: kenr When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: For a different way to climb near and on this gully,
See on This Page


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar
By: kenr When: Nov 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Topo photo with Route lines
and more detailed descriptions of some newer routes
are linked from
This Page


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cold Turkeys (5.9+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: P1 is great -- surprised it's not better known and more popular. Arguably better than the arete pitch on Diretissima.
I guess the overall grade including much harder P2 deters lots of people from trying P1.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Amore Eel (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Top-Rope dangerous because if fall off crux will likely swing back and hit tree.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : The Red Knob (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Can Top-Rope the "Madara variation" from the Manticore Face tree anchor: twenty to thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete (requires a low class 5 move to get from the top of the cliff down to this tree, so recommend using a rope to reach it).
. . (Likely want at least one directional placement for TR).

The rock is high-friction, so think about how to minimize rope drag for Top-Roping. If belaying from the bottom, standing anywhere near Dead T... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall : Manticore Upper Arete (5.3)
By: kenr When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Largest pieces I used for leading it were a BD Camalot C4 0.75 and BD Stopper #8.

. (We saw evidence that someone else in years previously had done some trimming of vegetation along the line of the route, so seems likely they also climbed up it, perhaps on Top-Rope which would be the obvious way to do trimming - or perhaps on Lead. Therefore the FA entry above is only for the first Recorded ascent).


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