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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact kenr

Point Rank: # 152
Total Points: 3,530
Last Year: 2,266
Last 30 Days: 413
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 1956 | Routes 171 | Areas 45 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements 27 | Comments 364 | Posts 787 | Stars 314 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Starburst (5.10a)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Sustained interesting thoughtful moves, but none individually is real hard.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : My Sweet Tooth (5.10b)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Twix is the (wider) crack to the left of the My Sweet Tooth bolt line. The climber in photo 111076635 has his left hand up on the right edge of that crack.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Sunday Matinee Wall
By: kenr When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I did five routes.
All very interesting worthwhile climbing.
Wall close to vertical.
All had more abrasive rock than the (fun) (less-than-vertical) slab areas at Alabama Hills I've climbed.

All five way seemed to me harder than the difficulty ratings in the guidebook 3rd edition.

? Mayble some holds have broken off ? or some of more positive edges are missing ?
since the grades were assigned years previously?
A little thing broke off while I was climbing (and it had not rained recently).

M... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Dem Bones Wall
By: kenr When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: I created this sector page just to help people understand the layout of the areas when they're walking around looking for things. And so someone who wants to provide information or comments about a specific route will have an area to attach it to.

I hope someone with better local knowledge than me will take over this page -- and I will gladly hand off my "ownership" of this page any time a M.P. administrator wants to make that happen.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : Philosophy Wall
By: kenr When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: I created this sector page just to help people understand the layout of the areas when they're walking around looking for things. And so someone who wants to provide information or comments about a specific route will have an area to attach it to.

I got the name of this sector from another website. If it's not right, let's get it fixed here.

I hope someone with better local knowledge than me will take over this page -- and I will gladly hand off my "ownership" of this page any time a M.P. admi... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : Busload of Faith (5.6)
By: kenr When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: Worthwhile climbing sustained at that difficulty grade.
If interesting easy face/slab climbing is what you're looking, Busload of Faith delivers. Not as hard as the crux sections of Catwalk, makes a good warmup for a new leader who wants to try Catwalk.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : Catwalk (5.7)
By: kenr When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: Busload of Faith and Catwalk start in almost the same place, just right from a foot-wide gully. But while Busload goes virtually straight up, Catwalk immediately aims a bit right, then strongly right toward the arete on the right side of the face.

The obvious esthetic line is to do the whole upper half directly on the arete. There's also an interesting way to step left higher up.

Top-Roping offers another different (half) line for the upper section. When reach the bolt in the middle of the tra... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo : The Picnic Wall : Gape Index (5.10c)
By: kenr When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: Now there is a diagonal bolt line (two or three bolts) starting 10-15 feet to the left and joining this route about 20-25 feet up.

The first 15 feet of this route is much harder than most of the upper two-thirds. The easy sections of the upper section are fun, then there's a more strenuous couple of moves just before the top.

Top-Rope: We did this route (and the left start variation) on top-rope from the Catwalk anchor. One of our climbers was not strong enough for the starting sequences, so a... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : The Wave (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Lots of interesting moves, many side-pulls.
Perhaps more fun on Top-Rope (easy to set up), because some of the side-pulls around the right-side arete felt like blind reaches.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Parking Slot (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I climbed up this slot, and at the top there was my car parked.

Took me a while to find the unusual hold for the first move off the ground. When I see holds like that at an indoor gym, I tell myself it's interesting and fun to use it, but they're not a realistic representation of outdoor rock. Except here.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Butterflies Arete (5.9+)
By: kenr When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Our local indoor gym sets some very fun moderate-difficulty Arete routes. I always tell people to be sure to climb and enjoy those moderate indoor arete routes, because they'll never find an interesting outdoor arete at a difficulty less than 5.11.
But now I've found this arete of the butterflies.

. (Not at all like l'ArĂȘte des Papillons).


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Presidential Warfare (5.7+)
By: kenr When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Fun "three-dimensional" climbing. We did it on Top-Rope from the two-bolt anchor at the top of The Wave route, supplemented with a trad directional placement.

Variation: An easier but less interesting start (which keeps the line more distinct from the bolted route to the right), is to start in the wide crack on the left (west) side of the detached block/pillar just left of the bolted route The Wave.

As of February 2016, found that rock on or near this route was loose or breaking. Therefore the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : East Face Hueco (5.8)
By: kenr When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps this line should be seen as a Variation rather than a separate Route.
Either way ... I see it as a way to get some additional fun climbing out of the same Top-Rope anchor and directional.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Escuche Vaca Heard (5.9 X)
By: kenr When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: See routes photo.

That initial sequence on the left-trending flake is not only strenuous but a bit awkward. Much harder than the rest of the (more fun) climbing above.

We set up a Top-Rope on this route by using the two-bolt anchor for Leonosphere with a directional sling around a small horn along the ridge crest about twelve feet east from that anchor - (and also used that anchor with directional setup to Top-Rope three other routes to the left of... more >>


Location: PA : Northeast Ridges and Valley... : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : The Library
By: kenr When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Getting There ...
Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradi... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Perched Ramparts : Enclosure : Valhalla (5.11)
By: kenr When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: As of November 2015, the bottom of this route is blocked by an impenetrable mass of nasty thorns / prickers.
So I haven't tried it yet.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Perched Ramparts : Enclosure : Feels Like Climbing to Me (5.5)
By: kenr When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: As of 2015, the base of this route is covered with a deep layer of impenetrable nasty prickers + thorns.
So I haven't tried it yet.

. . (Since this route is between two with names from Norse mythology -- a valkyrie and the resting place of fallen heroes -- perhaps it deserves a Norse name, perhaps including another valkyrie Brynhildr who gave the decision for the result of a battle).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Estimating the Approach:
Getting up to Basilisk from parking on Torne Valley Rd is about
+220 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.65 mile (+67m vert over 1.05km). Typical approach times 13-30 minutes.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Estimating the Approach:
The usual way most people get up to Good Book Wall nowadays is about
+330 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.65 mile (+100m vert over 1.05km) from parking on Torne Valley Rd. Typical approach times 18-35 minutes.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Tower Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Estimating the Approach:
The usual way most people get up to Tower Wall nowadays is about
+210 vertical feet of uphill over distance about 0.45 mile (+65m vert over 0.72km) from parking on Torne Valley Rd. Typical approach times 10-23 minutes.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Puzzle Palace Wall
By: kenr When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Getting There:
Puzzle Palace crag is at (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1455 W74.1645)

From parking on Torne Valley Rd, go first to the Tower Wall (GPS lat long ~ N41.1450 W74.1652), then walk ENE roughly flat 360 feet (110 meters). Then at (N41.1454 W74.1641) just before the trail curves right down steep, turn off Left onto a steep loose trail. Scramble up this 130 feet (40 meters) NorthWest then West to the base of [[Puzzl... more >>


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Sunny Picnics : Rodeo Clown (V2) : Photo
By: kenr When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I'm not much into boulder problems (yet). I'm happy to take the time to set up top-ropes to save me from sprained ankles and back. After rehearsing on top-rope, Brian sent it as a boulder problem, then scrambled down to the Right (past the much easier boulder problem, easy enough so I did feel confident to send it without rope myself).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Hung Like Benedict (5.10)
By: kenr When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: for link to route Topo photo
and different description ...
See on This Page


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Major John Andre (5.8+ R)
By: kenr When: Nov 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: for link to route Topo photo
and different description ...
See on This Page


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Devonshire Pillar : Devonshire Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: kenr When: Nov 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: for link to route Topo photo
and different description ...
See on This Page


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