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I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.


Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: May 5, 2013
Contact Kenny P


Point Rank: # 7,175
Total Points: 29
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 0
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Kenny P been climbing?

2 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.

Kenny P

 
Personal Page
Personal: 42 years old, Male
Favorite Climbs: none specified
Other Interests: none specified
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Photo Albums by Kenny P    
Out There
Billy's Ghost Dance 5.5
  Apr 12 - Guiding
Nose in a Day 5.6
  Apr 12 - Guiding
Credibility Gap 5.9+
  Feb 19 - With Tim H. Great line.
Current Event 5.10b
  Feb 18
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I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.  Swiss Summit of the Matterhorn  Looking down at my partner Ricky as we near the section above the Solvay Hut known as "The Gebiss"- which is a steep section with some fixed rope. The "normal" route ascends the obious jumble of fixed lines; however the "by-pass" continues further left at the first set of fixed ropes for another two or three meters, then ascends directly up. (The only problem with this variation, though faster, is that it exposes the team momentarily to potential rockfall down the East Face).  Waiting in line to ascend the first fixed rope at 4:20am; we came to Zermatt in good fitness and we were able to climb past nearly every team. Nevertheless 3,996ft of climbing thins out the herd; and as we descended through the various teams that were still climbing we noticed the spacing had grown between most of the parties.  Matterhorn from Zermatt 
Gobbler's Grunt 5.9
Zealous 5.10d
Bee's Nest Arete V2
Angel's Arete 5.10a R
The Tree Route 5.10a
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