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 ADVANCED
I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.


Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: Aug 24, 2014
Contact Kenny P


Point Rank: # 4,010
Total Points: 105
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kenny P been climbing?










Kenny P is in the Partner Finder and is open to climbing with new people.
Personal: Lives in Woodland Park, 43 years old, Male
Favorite Climbs: none specified
Other Interests: none specified
Personal/Favorite web site: none specified
Likes to climb: Trad climbs
Trad:  Leads 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Follows 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport:  Leads 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Follows 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ice:  Leads WI5  Follows WI6
Mixed:  Leads M6  Follows M8
More information:

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Photo Albums by Kenny P    
Out There
Alcove 5.9 Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
  Aug 1 - W/ John L
Laura's Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
  Jul 9 - W/ John
Adult Supervision 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
  Jul 9 - With John L
Left Handed Jew 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
  Jul 7 - As always a nice easy warm up and good intro to Turkey for Adam who came along today with me, Dbug, John & the boys
TO-DO LIST<< VIEW ALL 17
Lost in Space 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alexander's Chimney WI4 M4
Blitzen Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wunsch's Dihedral 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Culp-Bossier 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Road WI3 M4
Recent Site Contributions View all 392 Contributions
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This is a picture of the turn off for the climber's trail. The trail becomes very easy to follow and is marked further up with cairns- this well established climber's trail will deliver you to the left side base of Wigwam in the "Teepee Tower Crack" vicinity.  The top of the second pitch (very photogenic!!!); however, I debated on trying to move left into the crack in the center of the photo (this would have required a tiny bit of slab on the traverse into it), and since I was "on-sighting", I wasn't sure how difficult the crack would be since you cannot really see into it from your position. <br />Never fear as you hit the "roof", smaller-medium gear works really well (there was a bomber fixed stopper leading up to the roof as of 4 July 2014). After negotiating the "roof", I place a red Camalot and made the easier than expected traverse across to the new anchors. This was an excellent route.  The luxurious anchor atop the second pitch. (Thanks to those who put in the hard work & effort to install this.) The end of the second pitch is thrilling all the way to the anchors. We used a single 60m & a pull cord to rap with; it seemed you could go with a 50m and a pull cord and have no problem rapping to the ground. Although from the comments, folks have made it down with a single 60m without too much problem....  The top of P1: rock horn has been used as a rap in the past (old tat and leaver-biners). I slung this and back it up with a 0.75 and stopper in the crack to the RIGHT of the next pitch (I also used this as my first piece of pro and led high up into the second pitch before placing an absolute nuclear bomb proof #2 Camalot. The initial 30 or so feet of P2 is good hands. <br />Another option if weather is threatening OR if the first pitch gave you ANY trouble is to bail from here.  Ascending the Hourglass in late October; fixed ropes were buried, but I managed to uncover most of them just in case.... Probably better to climb this particular route when there is adequate snow to reduce the rockfall hazard. We had the mountain to ourselves. 
Vanishing Gully WI4
Stiff Little Fingers 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gobbler's Grunt 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stage 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Woman 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
True Religon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Suggests: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ben Dover 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Suggests: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teepee Tower Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Suggests: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Junior Jules Doinks a Digit 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Suggests: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rainy Day Woman 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  Suggests: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
COMMENTS<< VIEW ALL 15