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Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks


Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact kennoyce

Point Rank: # 341
Total Points: 2,019
Last Year: 516
Last 30 Days: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kennoyce been climbing?










Contributions


All 2416 | Routes 106 | Areas 24 | Photos 92 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 113 | Posts 876 | Stars 703 | Ratings 493
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: kennoyce When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: Yep, just like that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: kennoyce When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Ramshorn, very common in Europe. For backing it up it's best to place a bolt above this bolt and run a chain connecting the hangers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Mandela (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I guess you're supposed to traverse left at the top to the chains? I didn't see anything to the left, so I traversed right to the anchors atop Riptide. I guess I'll have to figure out where the actual anchors are for this route next time I give it a go.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Okay route, biggest issue was the poor rock quality, there were quite a few loose flakes on the route. As far as the reach, my wife is like 5.6 and when she got to the top of the second pitch and asked her how "the reach" went she didn't even remember there being any reachy moves.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Hair Dogs (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: The book has this route listed as 5.12a which is why I put it as that, but either holds have broken or I just did it the wrong way, but it felt much harder than that to me. Up to the third bolt I'd have probably given it a 5.12b, but the section from the third bolt to the fourth bolt would put it probably at 5.12d IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Arana (5.12b)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: I put this route in as 5.12b since that's what the guidebook gives it, but IMO it's a soft .12b, maybe more of .12a or .11d.


Location:
By: kennoyce When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: Supermoc


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Unknown (5.11b)
By: kennoyce When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: I was told by some people climbing this route today that they had heard it is rated 5.11c/d. Maybe I was having a low gravity day, but it felt more 5.11b-ish to me.

I have replaced the original crappy hardware on this route with good 1/2" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the steep section and 3/8" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the slabby section. I didn't have time to replace the last bolt or one of the two anchor bolts, so ma... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Josie Wales (5.10c)
By: kennoyce When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This route is terribly manufactured. The majority of the holds are drilled pockets. To make matters worse, the pockets seem to be drilled at random making for awkward movement throughout.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Millennium (5.13d)
By: kennoyce When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: "long moves between positive albeit slopey holds..." I don't quite get this, I thought that positive was the opposite of slopey, therefor, if a hold is positive it can't be slopey, did you mean to say big albeit slopey holds? Just curious about what is meant by this statement.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.10d)
By: kennoyce When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: I agree that this route isn't 5.11b, but I think the comment above by Super Fluke is kind of funny since a V2 equates to about 5.11a, so it's a V2 boulder problem, but no way it's harder than 5.10b, that makes a lot of sense!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : Unknown 5.11a?? (5.11a)
By: kennoyce When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: Not sure if this is correct or not, but I think this is the route that starts just left of the river. On the far right side of the china wall is a prow that sits in front of the main wall and has several routes on it, the first is facing the main china wall and I believe it is called viable options, the second is around the arĂȘte and has a homemade hanger for like the third bolt. This route is the third route on this prow and begins between the route with the homemade hanger and the river, an... more >>


Location: kennoyce : Profile : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Why thank you. They are quite comfortable and I'm sad that they are just about completely worn out now:(


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Murphy's Dome South Face : Pork Meadows (5.10b) : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't look at all like galvanic corrosion, looks like uniform corrosion of a non-stainless bolt.


Location: Joe Kinder : Stoke : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I need to know where this cave is, every time I see photos of it I'm just blown away, it looks so sick!


Location: AR : Prohibition : Prohibition Wall
By: kennoyce When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Wow, is this the worst area description on MP.

"Getting there: See area overview", umm, this is the area overview.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Cleft Lip (5.11b)
By: kennoyce When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: The only way this one is .11b is if you use a sidepull crimp way left of the bolt line. If you go straight up the bolt line it's at least .11c or d.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Hankerin (5.12b/c)
By: kennoyce When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I put in the finish up Crank Addiction Dirrect as a separate route under the name "Hankerin for a Crank Addiction".


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : THC (5.12c/d)
By: kennoyce When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I put the left route in the database as THCrystal Corner in case anyone is interested.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Hankerin for a Crank Addict... (5.12b/c)
By: kennoyce When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: If anyone knows of a different name or the first ascent of this link-up, let me know and I'll change it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Like Pull'n a Tooth (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Not sure if anyone has named this route before, so if someone has, let me know and I'll change it. I just figured that since this shares the start with Like Pull'n Teeth, but only shares the first half of the difficulty and is easier than Like Pull'n Teeth, it is more like Pull'n a tooth;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : THCrystal Corner (5.12c)
By: kennoyce When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Not sure if this has been named before as I'm sure someone has climbed it before me. If you know of the actual route name or the first ascent let me know so I can update the info.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Lleida : Oliana : ... : Canto Hondo (5.10c)
By: kennoyce When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Not exactly sure as 5.10b and 5.10c feel about the same to me, but FWIW, the book lists this one as 5.10c.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Lleida : Oliana : ... : Minim Esforç (5.10c)
By: kennoyce When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Not exactly sure as 5.10b and 5.10c feel about the same to me, but FWIW, the book lists this one as 5.10c.


Location:
By: kennoyce When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Not sure as I'm not there, but they certainly look natural in the photo. If you haven't noticed, the manufactured holds at the quarry are all filled with glue to smooth them out. It's quite hard to manufacture a smooth hold without using that technique, so check it out and see if they are filled with glue or not. If you're not sure what I mean head back to the quarry and take a closer look at the manufactured holds.


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