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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Left : Crimson Cringe (5.12b)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: By the way, that lower-off is 50 meters! (Yosemite Free Climbs, Don Reid, 1994).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Painted Pony (5.11)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Bjornstad, 1998
Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Gorilla (5.10)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:
Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1978
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Anasazi (5.11a)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent from Bjornstad, 1988:
Mugs Stump and Bob Sullivan, 1978.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pringles (5.11+)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent Beta from Bjornstad, 1988:
Steve Hong and Leonard Coyne, top rope, 1978
Antoine Savelli and Andy Tibbits, led, 1986
A 5.10b second pitch was added by Wiggins and Cassidy.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : West Face (5.11-)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent:
James Dunn (first solo ascent of new route on El Cap, Cosmosis),
Bill Westbay (first one day ascent of The Nose)
Stewart Green (caught the first ascent of Supercrack on film)
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Using Camalot sizing, here is how I'm planning to rack up next go: 2 #2s, 3 #3s, 2, #4s, 4 #5s, 2 #6s.
From our high point in the photo, we rapped from bolts using a single 70m rope.
After three day-trips, we've found an approach route that avoids the insane iron ladder, pain in the butt scrambling, and green delights.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Shadows Route (5.10)
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent: Ken Trout and Scott Visscher, October, 1978. First free ascent of North Sixshooter. Bill Forrest and ? tried this before us, but backed off when the overhang/block/belay-ledge settled down a few inches as Bill climbed onto it. This is the easy way to free the tower, since the original route has aid ladder.
We placed the bolt belay and about three protection bolts on the second pitch. They were all 1/4" stars, good to just over 1,000lbs, when new. Don't trust the bolts, unles... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Coffin Crack (5.10b)
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: 1964!!!! Back when...the Beatles showed us greasers how to wear our hair proper.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964.
I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tongo (5.10d)
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I know where the name, Tongo, came from.
In the sixties Hanna-Barbera had a kid's entertainment hour on TV called The Banana Splits. A regular feature was a show called Danger Island. Whenever the tree-swinging, Tarazan-like, hero came to the rescue everyone would cry out: "Uh oh, Tongo!". The hero's name was really Chongo, but google reminded me that most of us heard is as Tongo.
It would be really cool to find out from Pat Ament where the name came from. This route sorta makes me ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Photo (Copy)
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, thanks million Richard!
Here's something about CRAIG LUEBBEN. He was the first person I ever saw on-sight Squirrel, about when he first moved here. Horrible beta of course, it's so devious. But Craig just powered on through the mid-section on sheer grip, no dodge left to rest at the roof. No dodge right at the roof. That Guide Exam thing must have been about him being lots better than the proctors.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Solar Panel (5.12d)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was put up by Mark Rolofson and Dianne Dallin, about 1994.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Klimbink is Verbolten (5.11d)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guy Lords and I did this one, about 1991 or maybe early '92. People where getting hurt on it, so someone else added the second bolt much later.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Pebble Beach (5.10a X)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, Dave Dunblazer led this with Kat as a 5.10X, not TR, about 1984. Dave used the first two bolts on Scotty Beam Me Up, then went up left, past a seam that took a smaller wire and all the way up to the Scotty anchor, without using anymore bolts.
It is more common to top rope this from the Scotty anchor.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock : Slippery When Wet (5.7)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Ascent (about 1988): Noel Child, Jerry Rock, and maybe Strappo. Noel led this in "Bachar Style. Two bolts or less.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Rock Island : Chouinard Becky Route (5.10-)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a list of who I remember put up Beckey-Chounaird and other routes across the valley. The name came about as a joke... about how it was as good as the famous Bugaboo's Grade V (NOT!).
FA about 1985 by John McMullen, Kyle Copeland, Mark Hurt, Allison Sheets. Drilled on lead.
Dan McGee, Marty Alfred, and Diana Baily did routes in the area, too.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of the route really is Bone Collector! The FA found lots of bird bones in the crack while cleaning the yuck out. I could be misremembering, but it was just a little while ago that I asked.
It sure does put the crush on fingers!
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Location: WA : North Cascades : The Gunsight Range
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is time to re-think the approach to Gunsight described in "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" by Nelson and Potterfield, 1993. According to a 2008 ranger report, an additoinal nine miles of the Suiattle River Road has to be hiked to reach Downey Creek. Also, hiking Bachelor Creek was reported as getting very brushy in the same NCNP route conditions summary. Climbing Dome Peak as an approach is very committing. I was once stormed into Agnes West Fork and it really sucked. Finally, crossing ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Silver Bullet (5.11+)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently cleaned the flakey rock out of that placement. After working the route a bit, it was making me crazy that such a perfect crack had the gnar-gnar start. My partner thought my idea to clean the crack was wrong. Then I read the commnents above and thought: "It's not just me!"
Had there been anything sketchy about cleaning the rotten crack, then Will would certainly have been contacted first. Marks observation require's me to explain why a stick-clip is no longer needed.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Point Dume
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! A Point Dume fix-up is a dream come true. The only thing that could make this place better would be if Gigit came by and asked for a belay.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Malice In Bucketland (5.9-)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike Head originally led this on sketchy natural gear in 1983. Dave Head added two bolts in 1985. Mike Head did the phase II work about 1989 (Rock $ Ice #36).
I bought a 200m Bluewater and cut it in half. Using my 100m rope makes lowering off everything on the Front Side sweet!
There are no double bolt anchors at the top. This is because the supervising ranger wanted to prevent sport rappelling and associated hanger theft. Now, with day user limits and passes, summit anchors shoul... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Russ, thanks for all the great Hueco beta and photos (and the mussy hooks in the Owens too)!
I did ask a park staff member if I could help replace old bolts. The answer was that "Austin is working on it still." It being some kind of policy.
I had thoughts of the old Drilling Moon methods too, but it might get climbing banned. The scope of what really needs doing is too huge.
Sorry to all for hogging up so much page space with a lengthy condition report. Looking forward to a day in the fu... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just returned from Hueco. A sign at the ranger station warns climbers that the second bolt on Desperado broke under body weight, not a fall. The sign advises not to trust any bolts.
In the early Nineties, as part of a three phase plan to legalize bolt protection, Hueco got new bolts. Phase I was replacing 1/4" bolts with 3/8" (wedge). Phase II was making some of the classics better protected. Phase III was a permit process to do new routes.
Desperado is not listed as a having been work... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Sea of Holes (5.10 R)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you both for the summit belay back-up and big hex beta. I also added some C4 beta to the photo captioned: "Susan starting the first pitch".
Normally I'd just cut and run between the bolts on the Front Side. After hearing about the bolt on Desperado, finding back-up gear is worth the effort.
PS: I thought the theory was that the hard moves to the first bolt test the leader. If we feel good and solid after clipping the first bolt, then the rest of the route will be fun too. I wond... more >>
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