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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Beethoven's Wall
By: Ken Isaacson When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: My sons and I climbed the 10.a and 10.c on 11/27/09. I'm 63 and my sons are 32 and 28. Seems to me that 5.9 and 5.8 are more accurate ratings.
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Location: AZ
By: Ken Isaacson When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing at Seneca Falls on the San Carlos Apache is usually an unknown. I called San Carlos about camping reservations on 8/27/2009 and asked about a climbing permit. The reply was a short and rude "No." So if anyone else who has climbed there in the past is curious about Seneca Falls, don't get your hopes up.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Ken Isaacson When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guilty! I just don't seem to be getting it right.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed with John a few times when I lived in Flagstaff. I think I saw John Gault was a guide in a Google search or in Mountain Gazette.
I'm editing my comment. I just did a google search and found a few John Gault references, but none about a guide in Colorado. It was in Mountain Gazette or I am mistaken.
I noticed a comment from JBaker in Tucson. Mr. Baker might remember my son Nathaniel when he was a student at U of A about five years ago. He climbed at Lemmon and attended a few of your s... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Gault lived in Flagstaff in the late seventies and early eighties with his two dogs. He had a very high ape index,large biceps,and was prematurely bald.
If the climb is rated as a 5.12 in the early eighties, figure it is a 5.13 today. During this period climbers in Flagstaff and probably throughout Arizona, thought all the hard climbing was in Yosemite and gave climbs lower ratings than they deserved.
I think Gault is a climbing guide in Colorado now.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am deeply sorry for my over estimation of the hole in the ground. Perhaps it will be as attractive as the ASARCO photo above, a sort of eco-friendly hole.
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Location: AZ : Tam O'Shanter
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently Resolution Copper is involved in the development of this climbing area, as they plan to turn Oak Flats into a crater. I have not seen Tamo, but as I understand it, I can drive further from Phoenix to get there after I have purchased a gas guzzling four wheel drive to get me across private land. This must be Resolution's effort to go green. It is very considerate of them to make this financial sacrifice as they plan to mine billions of dollars of copper out of the Queen Creek Canyon ar... more >>
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is another of Arizona's great climbing areas. It was once home to the Phoenix Bouldering Competition, attended by thousands of climbers. However, in a questionable land swap, it was taken over by Resolution Copper. As soon as possible Resolution will turn this ecologically protected area into a hole in the ground about a mile across and perhaps a half a mile deep.
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pinnacle Peak is a fantastic climbing area for visitors. It overlooks some of the most luxurious homes in Arizona(bring your binoculars) and there are views of Troon and the Lower East Wall which were once open to climbers.
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Location: AZ : Lookout Mountain
By: Ken Isaacson When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone has added two bolts about three feet off the ground immediately to the right of Devil in Disguise. The bolts have no hangers and look like they are designed for removable holds. Why put in the bolts? Why not carry a step ladder and leave the rock alone. If these bolts are for holds, the holds eliminate the 5.10 start. What is this climber(?) thinking about?
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Location: AZ
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Arizona is a nice place to climb, but a serious climber really needs to go to Hueco, Yosemite, or J-Tree.
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Location: AZ : Lookout Mountain
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do not see Devil In Disguise listed here. My son and I climbed it on 3-10-09. It is immediately left of Totally Trad and is a 5.10. The crux is the first few moves depending on climber height (I'm 5'5"). It requires a pull up, raising feet under the roof to take weight off hands and arms, repositioning hands up, and repositioning feet to a stable stance. Use a spotter because the first bolt is useless. It is the devil in disguise.
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Corona Club (5.8+)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please see my Turtle Piss comments. The same applies; however, this route has fewer hand and foot holds. Often all you can find for hand or foot is a ripple in the rock and you sort of balance up the climb as something yellow trickles down your leg. It is the hardest 5.8 I have ever climbed.
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Turtle Piss (5.6)
By: Ken Isaacson When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My son and I led Turtle yesterday. There are few hand and foot holds making this the hardest 5.6 we have ever climbed. The rock is very granular and it bites into climbing rubber but that means climbing on friction and slicing up finger tips, a psychological strain.
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