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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a new rappel route put in May, 2013. 12 bolted stations, set up for a single 60m rope, located climbers left of the East Buttress. Scroll down a bit to find Clint Cummins' excellent photo.
www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php?r=yomceast
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Pigeon Cliff
By: Ken Trout When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the road from Susanville to Mt Shasta, just above town.
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Location: OR : Greensprings
By: Ken Trout When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't mean to be rude or unkind, but the rock at Greensprings is neither granite nor glacially polished. Orton's guide describes it as columnar basalt. I would agree that it is extrusive, but not basalt. The rock is very light colored for basalt, closer to rhyolite.
And, I agree with Joshua's main point; that there are a few cracks at Greensprings that provide some of Ashland's best training for slippery Yosemite cracks.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall : Tale of the Scorpion (5.10a A3+)
By: Ken Trout When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ed Fogels and I made the first attempt on this route, October 1980. We had Forrest hammocks, 10 rurps, 40 bolts from the hardware store in St. George, and two bat hooks (made for us by a very old and generous man in town).
The rangers told us a rescue would be impossible and watched us with telescopes every day as we hauled water up to Rubicon ledge. The first bolt on the Streaked Wall broke easily as I wrenched it down. Unable to trust our anchors we ended our attempt after one pitch off Rub... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Valhalla Range
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: British Columbia's Mt Asgard has always been called that by climbers. It used to be Heli-accessed most often. Now with the new logging road and trailhead it's a lot easier to get to than say...Pingora in the winds.
| MULVEY CIRQUE
violet - Nisleheim
red - Asgard
yellow - Gladsheim
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Mar 23, 2013
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Fountain Buttress : North Face : Sucking Wind (5.10c)
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the first ascent of this route solo, with some aid, a month before it was freed. Had to clean off a lot of fresh snow, but at least the river was frozen and easy to cross.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Lincoln Lake Slabs
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: They are the same. I've had trouble convincing people that Jabba/Under Colorado's Cloudy Skies is worthy. So I was super psyched to see Jason Kaplan's post, even though we had previously named and free-climbed the crack. I know he's a believer! But, I couldn't bring myself to abandon my old and previously published nomenclature. I like having both versions.
(Aiding on Jabba is certainly recommendable wall training!)
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Location: International : Africa : Kenya : Sangalo Rocks
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went to Kisumu to visit our daughter, Samantha; not to climb. Without Ian McHenry's posting of Kidogo-Kidogo on Mountain Project I would not have brought a full rack and bolt kit to the Lake Victoria region.
Ian, thank you for the excellent beta!
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Location: CO : Bill Forrest Passes Away
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, I miss my Forrest wall gear too!
I was raised on Bill Forrest's rock climbing equipment. Later, I got to know Bill Forrest because he hired me to work in his shop. The lasting innovations that sprang from the humble workrooms of Forrest Mountaineering will always be a part our sport.
It was Bob Culp who introduced me to the beautifully simple Forrest Leg Loops; made to go with our Yosemite style swamis. An inexpensive item that solved the problem of asphyxiation;... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Energy Crisis (5.11)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An elite first ascent team put this route up in 1979.
Hugh Herr was young and very good at freeing aid routes, before cams were available. Just after he did Energy Crisis, we attempted the Southeast Rib of Pigeon. Hugh freed the roof on the first hard pitch, and then weather drove us down. Not long after, Hugh lost both feet to frostbite and then was famous for inventing prosthetic limbs that allowed him to climb extreme routes.
Don Peterson was Royal Robbins partner on the ep... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Questar (5.11 PG13)
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: "Joe from western Colorado"
Actually it was me, Ken from Durango, with Peter Prandoni from Taos, back in 1979.
Thanks to Josh and any others for the help with upgrading the hardware or posting beta!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
By: Ken Trout When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two reports from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides:
JULY 20, 2012
In the area today and Lodge staff told us the normal route received its first ascent of the season yesterday. Sorry no more details other than from a distance it looks like the route is getting into "reasonable" early season condition. The Gmoser Highway approach will require negotiating snow.
Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
220 Hawk Avenue
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L ... more >>
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Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Lauterbrunnen
By: Ken Trout When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Harlins Die Alpen/Eiger 1/5 YouTube shows one wild route next to Staubbach Falls. Slide to the end of the clip to see the hanging belay perched at the lip of a 200 ft summit roof that caps a 1,000 ft wall. The Imax movie shows enough to entice one to rap in from the top and just do the last pitch.
www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=fvwp&v=RyOjAgZoXYo
Shouldn't a route that cool have a topo proudly posted?
Nicht! Nein web beta. Bitte helfen sie!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Rainy Day Rock : 7 Up (5.8)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That new book will be good!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : North Ridge (5.5 Mod. Snow PG13)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't thank George and Flex enough for the excellent beta & photos!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally! I was hoping others could teach me something by posting Assiniboine. Thank you!
Looks like the campground view. The hut is for clients! If you want to party like it's 1899, then do it from here.
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Location: OR : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and twenty miles from Diamond Lake on Hwy 138, going to Portland.
Also, there is a partly covered wilderness hot spring, 108F, a few miles up the Umpqua River, above Toketee Resevoir. Two USFS campgrounds in the area too.
All stuff I looked up. Thanks for the beta. I zoom past Diamond Lake on my way to Smith all the time and missed this worthy detour.
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Location: OR
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Welcome to Oregon Alpine Glower. The secret area thing cracks me up too, even though the Trout's have been here for a century. I posted a swimming hole for ya. The Elk River is a few miles north of Port Orford. Drive at least 6 miles up the river before the good holes begin appearing. There's climbing along the coast too, but the rock and anchors are usually horrible. Shoot me an email about anywhere and I'll help you spill the beans on the Proj.
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Location: NV : Lamoille Canyon
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Ruby Mountains are one of the few east-west aligned mountain ranges in the West. Geologically, the rocks are part of the Ruby Mountain's metamorphic core complex and the walls are mostly gneiss. Other climbing areas with the same geologic setting are City of Rocks (ID) and Mount Lemmon (AZ).
I agree that Lamoille Canyon is the Yosemite of Nevada and in 1979 counted at least six almost-Yosemite sized walls.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: MOUNTAIN RANGES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
Mountains stretch all the way across British Columbia and into Alberta. Students are usually taught to call these the Rocky Mountains. Climbers have a much better understanding. For nearly a century, the Canadian Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, and geographic scientists have divided British Columbia's complicated mountains into three big ranges; the Canadian Rockies, the Columbia Mountains ,and the Coast Range (not plural).... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : The Bugaboos
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: | Snowpatch Spire, September 19
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Sep 20, 2011
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Apprentice mountain guides Ken Belanger and Dave Healy posted this image and others @ ACMG
Also, an earlier report witnessed the release of fridge sized blocks from the lower left end of the namesake snowpatch. No one was on the route below.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Selkirk Mountains
By: Ken Trout When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mountains of British Columbia are very difficult to outline. A "Roadtrip" issue of Rock & Ice once stated that the Bugaboos are part of the Canadian Rockies, so even the experts have trouble with the complicated geography of British Columbia.
It should be pointed out that Dave Jones really knows his topic. The Bugaboos are indeed a part of the Purcell Mountains, not Selkirks.
I put a small geographic explanation of British Columbia's Mountains... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: | Black Wall, June 3rd, 2011.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jun 5, 2011
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Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Little Half Dome : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The oval was still there Feb. 16!
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys are kidding about the Colorado plates and how dangerous the Sweetwater River area is. I've done my time in Wyoming's oil fields too. Armed guards aplenty in the convenience stores of Casper during the seventies. Be glad when those green license plate show up! The local serial killer is still on the loose, suspected of murdering a climber traveling alone.
The "Sticky Situation" text states: "The people are ornery and the land is mean." History agrees! One these rocks where we cli... more >>
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