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Rock Climbing Photo: Chilliwack Range II  Photo by Robert Gunning on pa...


Member Since: Dec 21, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 21, 2016
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Ken Trout
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2043 | Routes 127 | Areas 88 | Photos 797 | Page Improvements | Comments 222 | Posts 26 | Stars 608 | Ratings 175
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : M aka The Divine Ms. M (5.10)
By: Ken Trout When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: I'm pretty sure the full name for this route was "The Divine Ms M". It got shortened to "M" in Rossiter, 2000, and I always assumed it was named after a spectacular Mines student Mike and I both new back in the mid eighties. She would ride her mountain bike from Golden to Eldo (and climbed hard!!).

Also, the nice glue in bolts at the top where placed by Ric Leitner in the late nineties.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Poncho (5.8)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: This anchor is a lot better than most but looks a little suspect, because the hangers are unique. I'm glad for both the photo and Eric's comment and will inspect.

Back when these 1/2" welded cold-shuts where made, Bob Robertson showed many of us his bolting workshop. Bob Robertson is the only metal artist I'm aware of who ever made such perfect anchor hangers. Fat radius! Very soft on ropes - much longer wearing and stronger than the usual 3/8" welded cold shuts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Unusual Weather (5.11c)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Ric Geiman - Unusual Weather.  Photo by Dan Heiden...
Ric Geiman - Unusual Weather.

Photo by Dan Heidenreich, 1988,
from Mark Van Horn & Sally Moser's
Rock & Ice Guide, issue #26
(the first Shelf Road topos).

An amazing photo lost to history. Ric could do this route blind-folded!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Dave Dangle (5.11b/c)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: LOCAL PIONEER
Rock Climbing Photo: Darryl Roth on Dave's Dangle.  Photo by Dan Heiden...
Darryl Roth on Dave's Dangle.

Photo by Dan Heidenreich, 1988,
from Mark Van Horn and Sally Moser's
Rock & Ice Guide, issue #26,
The first Shelf Road topos.


Put up by Darryl about 1987. Gear note - tights will add at least a letter grade to anyone's send-ability.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : The Gunsight Range
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Being from Colorado, when a ranger told the two juniors that Agnes was a "brush fight" they thought that sounded cool. He tried to warn them!
Rock Climbing Photo: Above Downey Creek
Above Downey Creek

Rock Climbing Photo: Gunsight from White Rock Lakes
Gunsight from White Rock Lakes

Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Purcell @ the West Fork Bridge  by K Trout 19...
Andy Purcell @ the West Fork Bridge

by K Trout 1973



Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Teewinot : East Face (4th)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Teewinot Mountain, East Face
Teewinot Mountain, East Face



Location: Africa : Kenya : Sangalo Rocks
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't forget a wrench for the 3/8" Fixe' bolt...
Don't forget a wrench for the 3/8" Fixe' bolts on top (like i did).



Location: Africa : Kenya
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Kenyan Climbing by Kenyon Trout 2015
Kenyan Climbing by
Kenyon Trout 2015

The map was not extended north because Poi and other areas up north are just too dangerous.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Toulumne Meadows Climber's Map
Toulumne Meadows Climber's Map



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Spire Direct (5.8 C2)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: LOST ARROW DIRECT 1975
In the fishbowl of Camp IV, it was not cool to be climbing with direct aid, or even worse, a bathook route! Young sinners were shunned by the older brothers of the rescue camp. But Warren Harding did not! He partied with the upstarts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Arrow Direct and the Mad Bolter's Wall
Lost Arrow Direct and the Mad Bolter's Wall

Rock Climbing Photo: Second Terror!
Second Terror!

Davey Hammock, El Cap soloist and guardian of the Sandia Crest. He scored the bathooks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Davy Hammock, 1975
Davy Hammock, 1975

That someone else would want to do this route too was incredible. Davy and I arrived at the bas... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Velcro Wall : Acid Crack (5.5)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: I fixed the grade to 5.5. Also, several photos have been embedded in the text so that they are more prominent for phone use in remote places. Thank you all for the comments and photos posted!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Velcro Wall : Tour de Platte (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: Darren, I apologize for being so late to have seen your question! No per S&S, but it sounds great. All that hard work you've done on the north face is great too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Velcro Wall : ... : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: Took me awhile to get back home here. Sorry! The yellow is very approximate for the Acid Crack. I like the 5.5 rating too better than my original 5.1 too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Hodge Podge (5.9)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: First Ascent Team (2/15/1975):
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Hodge @ Osiris, 1973. The route was his idea...
Chris Hodge @ Osiris, 1973.
The route was his idea but not the name.

Rock Climbing Photo: Robby Baker on Sugar Magnolia, 1975. Rob was not s...
Robby Baker on Sugar Magnolia, 1975.
Rob was not so impressed with the low angle climbing and the bushes and came up with the name to tease our high school buddy.

Rock Climbing Photo: Beth Bennett on the Bulge, 1975 (FFFA of the Naked...
Beth Bennett on the Bulge, 1975
(FFFA of the Naked Edge a few years later).

Rock Climbing Photo: Protege member atop Spearhead NW Ridge.  Photo by ...
Protege member atop Spearhead NW Ridge.

Photo by Mark Frevert, 1973.




Location: Africa : Kenya : Mt Kenya : Southeast Face of Nelion (5.8) : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: The anchor was nice. Just a single glue-in placed by the Austrians, but very well located (Danke!). I was leaning out on it to take the picture.

I was tired of dealing with the rope and took a chance and went for it! The hard spot was down low (almost 5.0). Also, I knew I was going to blow off traversing to Batian. My faithful young porter was waiting at the base and I didn't want to leave him in the dark.

Sorry to be so tardy answering!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Sunshine Wall (5.11- R)
By: Ken Trout When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Wow, this route really is like the regular route on Half Dome! Sorry to have missed your revelation Hanshan. Thank you!

Maybe instead of 5.12, just a new bolt ladder like Half Dome - it is a lot easier than the other east face routes, almost certainly no one has ever taken it to the true summit. Valley Giants might make the chimney fun too.

This photo with beta for Superdirect on the west side shows how hard it might be to climb to the highest summit.
mountainproject.com/images/2... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Streaked Wall
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: FIRST ATTEMPT
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Ed Fogels, October, 1980 Climber in cente...
Photo by Ed Fogels, October, 1980
Climber in center (wearing rock colored clothes)

Ed Fogels and I made the first attempt on the central leaning "crack" that ends in a blank headwall.

We were returning to Colorado after spending a month in Yosemite. We bought a box of Red Head bolts in St George. I only had a handful of drill bits left over from the previous spring's bolting on the Halucinogen Wall and Popes Nose. Winter was coming and we only had hammocks. But we had one ace.

An ancient man in Springdale helped us out. He ignored ou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Psycho (5.11a/b)
By: Ken Trout When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: PSYCHO IS A LOT MORE THAN ONE PITCH!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kor-Ingalls, 1962.
Kor-Ingalls, 1962.
To those who have not climbed all four pitches: you missed the good stuff! Instead of stopping at the bolts under the roof, just aid the roof and keep going. In 1962, the movie Psycho was the scariest ever. Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls borrowed Hitchcock's title for a route as steep and scary as any climb the world had yet seen.

PSYCHO SLAB
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Baker, 1973.
Photo by Baker, 1973.
It is easy to lose your head here!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Concentric (5.10)
By: Ken Trout When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Concentric @ Rincon @ Eldo
Rock Climbing Photo: Concentric, 5.10c PG-13.  Image by Mountain Projec...
Concentric, 5.10c PG-13.

Image by Mountain Project contributor
Jake Wyatt.

Using the bolt anchor for Camouflage is a great way to set up a top rope for Rincon's finger crack. Although, continuing to the top via Center Route or On the Crest is why I think this is a four star route. Concentric climbs Rincon's central wall without having to do 5.11.

PG-13 because the red Alien will not save the leader from hitting the Camouflage slab if the anchor is not successfully clipped.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Sep 25, 2014

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Comments: Is this Bony Fingers?
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dome that overlooks the Tarryall Tower approac...
The Dome that overlooks the Tarryall Tower approach's hillside.

How about this monster dome above the last good campsite? Anyone?
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin cracks on face, right of the arete?
Thin cracks on face, right of the arete?



Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Contraceptive Cracks (5.10 A3-)
By: Ken Trout When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Only Mark and I went to the top? Uh-oh! We should go back, trade leads, all top out, and then bag another new route. July, 2014, is good for me.

Thanks for helping with my sketchy memory, Paul (or Glen?).


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Moffatt Tunnel : North-facing Wall : Unknown Moffat Ice (WI3)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Moffat Tunnel Pillar, 12/27/2013.
Moffat Tunnel Pillar,
12/27/2013.

The approach has changed. First hike up the main trail until past the fence. Then take the obvious left.


Location: Africa : Kenya : Sangalo Rocks : Kidogo Kidogo (5.10a PG13)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice Shade!
Nice Shade!

Rock Climbing Photo: The crux was slightly wide hands.
The crux was slightly wide hands.

Inside the hand-jamming section was biggest bat I've ever seen on a climb. After I asked nicely, the bat shuffled back a bit to make room for my hands (no hanging!).
Rock Climbing Photo: Lowering back into shade after drilling in the Equ...
Lowering back into shade after drilling in the Equatorial sun.

Be warned; I forgot a wrench and lowered off loose bolts.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccola : ... : Photo
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: This single bolt-in-a-block belay is at the top of Spigalo Giallo, not quite at the rappels. In the comments, farkas.time give a good descrition of the Piccolissimo to Cima Piccola traverse.

That bolt she's tied into is the first useable bolt on the route. I counted four chopped bolts on Spigalo Giallo. One was an attempt to back up the funky belay pins for the wildly exposed ledge below the crux. We just pretended it was 1933 and climbed like Comici; no lead falls or slack "gym... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccola : Cima Piccola – South Arete... (5.9+)
By: Ken Trout When: Dec 19, 2013

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Caravans from the upper entrance to Rifugio Auronz...
Caravans from the upper entrance to Rifugio Auronzo.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Rifugio Auronzo starts @ 22 Euros per person (2013/dorm/no pension). Showers are 5 Euros. Check at the toll booth for the cost of caravan camping. Cost-cutting rental car/tent bivouacs may be possible too. The parking lot had restrooms, but they are closed at night. The hut has a bar.

APPROACH TO SPIGALO GIALLO (Yellow Edge)
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Ron Olson mountainproject contributor
Photo by Ron Olson
mountainproject contributor

DESCENT NOTES
We made about ten rappels to the Cima Piccola-Cima Grande col using a single 70 meter... more >>


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