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Member Since: Jan 12, 2004
Last Visit: Jun 9, 2016
Contact Ken Klis

Point Rank: # 3,002
Total Points: 225
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
77 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ken Klis been climbing?










Contributions


All 89 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 6 | Stars 10 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock : The Michael Banks Proposal ... (5.3 X)
By: Ken Klis When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Just got off the old Skool phone with Banksey and he says fuck Eldo and Moab, tell that Cali Rules for climbing, truth.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Free For All (5.11a)
By: Ken Klis When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: FA unknown 1970's?

FFA 1986


Location:
By: Ken Klis When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: What about the line to the right?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Namasté (5.12a)
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Where's the little whipper I took? That's what we want to see haha


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: 41 has 3 sites I know about between Mbay and Atascadero.

1) limestone area just west off the summit with small pullout to park, routes on north bank of creek, very good but limited qty

2) some little bs boulders are at the bottom of the east slope of the hills as you leave town, you can see them from your car and you may even want to stop and climb there once

3) fairly good sized cliff north and above road that I walked to once and thought kind of loose but I've been wrong 51% of the time my... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : Dig It (5.11d)
By: Ken Klis When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: you can stay out of the chimney for the high test (bolt 3)


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : La Leche (5.11a)
By: Ken Klis When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: second bolt clip, undercling right to stance, mono move up from stance is the 5.11

the move up and left at the second bolt escapes the crux


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Fields of Fire (5.8)
By: Ken Klis When: May 24, 2013

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: fields of fire near top
fields of fire near top



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Spearmint Rhino (5.11d)
By: Ken Klis When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: teens and young adults bear disproportionate share of std's


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Only Way To Fly (5.10c)
By: Ken Klis When: Jan 26, 2013

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Comments: I'll try to be brief:

Only Way to Fly was a one bolt climb that, after grabbing the jug-crack, veered up and right on a ramp toward the Civilized Evil belay station. The bolt was in the black streak and made for an exciting move to the jug-crack.

A variation finish and bolt was added in the '80's, going up from the ramp at 5.10+ and runout somewhat.

A second variation, some call a new route with a shared start, was added in 2002. It climbs almost straight up, finishing at a bolted station. Th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully : Tri-Burro Bridge (5.10 PG13)
By: Ken Klis When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: lost a gray Alien here on 1-4-13


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Rat Race (5.11+ R)
By: Ken Klis When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: 11.d is fair if you lead the roof without beta, but it is one of those routes that gets easier with beta or rehearsal.

The lower move has a key right foot that has become slick like a boulderer's lexicon.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : True Summit Block : Vertigo (C2-)
By: Ken Klis When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: FA was Ed Keefe back around 1990.

He borrowed my bolt kit for this and I should not of lent it out. Bolt ladders are not very useful 40 feet off the ground -- these are more appropriate for connecting major features on say a 2000' wall or such.

Weird when you see an FA claimed 20+ years after the FA.

The bolt ladders at Cerro Cabrillo (#3) detract much without any worthy benefit too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Epidural (5.10a)
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: Regarding the name, every pregnant woman who plans a vaginal birth has to contend with the fact that she will have to squeeze a head the size of a grapefruit out ...

This fa must have been March 2004 as my wife was having our daughter at the time.



Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Lycra (5.10a)
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 8, 2012

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Comments: fa Ken Klis, Nate Sears

hand drilled on-sight old school by me, forgot my hammer used a rock

named in regards to the Lycra pants fashion of the day

this route joined I Love A Mystery (Mike Cirone 1977) for the top half, a route that used Shadow bolts but went right after a runout start


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Bishop Quarry : Photo
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: Is that steep or low angle?

How long is it?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Sl... (5.10b)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 17, 2012

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Comments: fa (toprope) I did it around 1986, named it slimy not Slippery, the hole was damp -- but that don't mean taint.

I never bolted it as I thought bolt #2 would be too close to Camel, and No Permits right there also, but you kids go get what you need ehh?






Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : 60 Seconds Over Soledad (5.7)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: Hollywood


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Superstem (5.11a)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: I originally cleaned and led this without bolts, around 1988 or so.

"ski" placed the bolts shortly after.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Hollister Peak : Photo
By: Ken Klis When: Dec 31, 2011

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Comments: If we could get legal access I'd like to try to climb there some day!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Middle Man (5.10a PG13)
By: Ken Klis When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: I climbed MAN IN THE MIDDLE yesterday and expected it to be much more refined.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Burn Permit (5.10c/d)
By: Ken Klis When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: Regarding User Name Priapism, this is a persistent, usually painful, erection that lasts for more than four hours and occurs without sexual stimulation.

Isn't this normal?

What is your favorite route ever?


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Dragtooth : North Buttress (aka the Dra... (5.10)
By: Ken Klis When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Craig Tatum and Claude Fiddler told me about this route in the mid-80's, and called it Dragrace.

Down with Dragway.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 11, 2011

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Comments: Those are mine.

Need them back asap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Dirty Rat's Crack (5.4)
By: Ken Klis When: Feb 16, 2009

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Comments: Original Name: Dead Rat's Crack (funny how names morph over time...)

fa circa 1971 led by Richard Pfost, followed by 2 others

He remembers pulling a dead rat out of the crack and throwing it down to the base, hence the name.

This route goes above the Civilized Evil anchors, over some bulges with hand jams, and to the top of the cliff where you can set up anchors, but use caution on some loose junk around (not often done but a very goood route, 5.7).


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