Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : 45 Degree Boulder : Photo
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rare sighting on the rock, spends most of his time climbing trees these days.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Grove : Drift Away (5.10c)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10c seemed accurate to me. Best 5.10 at Lime Creek passing over incredible rock. Be ready for more than one crux. Keeps you on your toes and fingertips.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Grove : Riding the Pine (5.11b)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route over clean rock. Cleaning draws on TR results in a high chance of a nasty swing into the tree at the crux.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Grove : Undercover Brother (5.11c)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moves down low but backs off once you are established on the left side of the bolt line.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : Chopping Block (5.11a)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally climbed since leaving it behind so many years ago. The climbing and rock is great up to the last bolt. Here the rock quality decreases and I found the last bolt placement to be in the middle of the redpoint crux. Best to climb past to large hold up and left to clip at your waist. Fortunately the bolt is in the better rock thus the placement should remain. Thanks Aaron for the improvements, this climb deserves more traffic.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Evil Paradise Area : Evil Paradise (5.10c)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt the rock was excellent for Diablo. Great position with many cruxes.
|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Prima Donna (5.9)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you clip all the lower bolts better use some long runners the rope drag was terrible through the upper overhangs. There was some loose rock but the bolt placements are why I give this a bomb. They were placed at bad angles, drilled too deep and shallow, loaded biners, you name it. I would avoid this climb in the future.
|
Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking to travel early November. What should we expect for crowds? Water temperature? Lodging availability?
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haven't been all of those but a good list for all climbs. We were thinking of 5.10's only as they are most prolific for the area. Though it would be interesting to expand the list to any grade, sport vs. trad. Always aspired to do ten tens in a day but at 8 or 9 of them the cold beer and forearm burn gets in the way. My 5.10 sport route list would be(in order):
Grape Ape
Two Wheel Drive
Evil Paradise
El Bolto del Diablo
Chicken Out
Waiting to Procrastinate
Chicks with Ricks
Good
Ergo
Humbolt... more >>
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Left End : Two Wheel Drive (5.10d)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The movement and stone on the lower half of this route is great. The holds on this portion are very comfortable but spaced and are generally the only feature available. Don't miss the bomber one finger pocket pulling the move between 2nd and third bolt.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rick Bradshaw and I were discussing the top ten 5.10 routes for Diablo. Seems to be grade of trend for Diablo. What is your top ten list? Based upon stars the following come to mind.
Grape Ape, Humbolt, Chicken Out, Sunday Bloody Sunday, Evil Paradise, Ergo, Solar Eclispe, The other Side, Chicks with Ricks, El Bolto del Diablo
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Post fire access has changed the approach, which I think is now more aesthetic as you leave the noise of the highway more immediately. After passing through the fence continue North on main trail until you reach a clearing and meadow on your left (west). Follow carins, logs, and bull dozer track west along the southern most drainage of the meadow. The trail will gain the ridgeline that after heading southwest will intersect the old approach trail descending into the canyon. Not sure if it is... more >>
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Cowboy Up (5.10d)
By: Ken Kisiel When: May 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic, .10d with the right beta.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Wheel of Karma : Invisible Pink Unicorn (5.10d)
By: Ken Kisiel When: May 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worthy addition to the canyon with interesting climbing all the way. Makes for a great escape from the sun.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : Waiting to Procrastinate (5.10b)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sustained climbing through the bottom to a good rest. I always seem to move up from the rest and returning back down from the crux several times, procrasitnating on making the final crux move.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Upper Tier of The Grotto : Guillotine Crack (5.10d)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Apr 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This obivious line would have atracted any climber who ventured up to Grotto over the years. I believe Denny Newell and Jacques (? a swiss co-worker) detached a large slab of rock that ressembled a guillotine that was lodge into the corner, thus the name of the route. The block was bypassed on their acsent and they returned to make the route safer by removing it. The large block finally dislodged and exploded atop the "chopping block". Upon returning to their car the film crew of Earth 2 tv ... more >>
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Juno Tower : Pork Swords (5.11b)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed Scott has the gear but we have not got around to equipping it. Did you enjoy it?
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow I must have been blown after excrementally weighted as I thought it was harder than that, will have to try it again. Very sustained 10b as I made several dynamic slaps through the second bolt then encountered difficult arete move to the forth. I am getting anxious to try again fresh. Josh this is a wortwhile addition!
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed loose as I wiggled it around but I may have been shaking at that point. It is a worthy line (two stars) but I hope harder than 10....at least 11a or I am really getting weak.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: New route left of Grendal. Any info? Took a big whipper between the third and fourth bolts as I found myself in a position without a free hand while staring at the bolt. The third bolt was lose to begin with but it held the fall. We encountered several other bolts of the same quality that seem loose beyond just a loose nut. What kind of bolts are being used on these new lines, studs or rawl?
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : Clifty : Sandbagger Boulder (5.9)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once again I wish the route continued for another 100+ feet. The exposure at Clifty makes you think you are on a big wall, but then it is over once the thought crosses your mind. A number 2 camelot will protect the traverse quite well.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : Clifty : Way Before After You Get Ho... (5.11c)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating is height dependent. If you are 5'8" or less getting off the ground is more difficult, how hard I do not know as I just reached the first bucket from the ground and did not try the shorter version. I am 5'9". Fortunately the first clip is reachable from the ground. Great continuous movement leaving you wanting more like the other routes at Clifty.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : Drunk Rednecks with Golf Cl... (5.8+)
By: Ken Kisiel When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack we dubed "Diablo Standard" in the mid 90's is well east of this route and consists of two pitches (see online guide). Although there could be another Diablo Standard named by different parties that could also be considered "crack awful" through the lower band of rock.
|
RSS Feed
