Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Dec 22, 2004
Last Visit: May 24, 2012
Contact Kellen Holt


Point Rank: # 8,187
Total Points: 29
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Kellen Holt been climbing?










Contributions


All (45) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos | Comments (19) | Posts (2) | Stars (12) | Ratings (11)
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Jihad

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a (10)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Holy Wars Cliff

Oct 22, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Pull My Finger (5.10a)
By: Kellen Holt When: Apr 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Absolutely incredible climb when done in one long 55m pitch. Belaying at every anchor would detract some value from this climb. The climbing never gets too hard, and there are plenty of ledges to rest on so the pump is never too much of a factor. The bolt count is 17 if you include clipping a draw to each of the intermediate anchors.

One note, while both of the "cruxes" are well protected, the bolt spacing does get a bit further apart higher on the route. Those just breaking into the grade ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Matrimony Wall : Kreighton's Bastard Child (5.11a)
By: Kellen Holt When: Apr 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Best line at the crag (imo). Steep, but with good holds and a few good rests.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : The Stumps : Money Cliff : E.Z. Money (5.6)
By: Kellen Holt When: Apr 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Make sure to take the direct crack right above the chimney system, not the crack out right. The right hand crack/v-flare is grainy and not very enjoyable. The correct crack is indeed excellent. This climb would get more stars if the upper crack was longer.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb, although I would not recommend rapping the route as the bolts are a few feet back from the sharp edge of the cliff and running your rope over this edge wouldn't be a great idea. Use the b... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : The Stumps : Zigzag Cliff : Orange Zig Zag (5.9)
By: Kellen Holt When: Apr 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this today. The climb stayed in the shade the entire time we were at the stumps, although later in the summer season I could see it getting some sun. Rock was cooooold (there were icicles on an adjacent route), and I lost feeling in my hands pretty quick, but the route was still excellent. The first step left into the horizontal part of the crack is a classic move, coming out from the pod and stepping out onto the vertical face with a straight drop below you. Thankfully the pocketed ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Blue Sky Wall : Buffalo Brothers (5.8)
By: Kellen Holt When: Mar 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route a few weeks back. The first two "pitches" are less then memorable and should absolutely be combined together. There are no bolts between the P1 and P2 anchors, however the terrain is 5.2 at worst and very low angle. If you were really concerned you might be able to slot an OK nut somewhere, but it's really not necessary. Better to just lead the first pitch, clip the pitch 1 anchor as an additional bolt, and then climb all the way to the 2nd anchor.

The 3rd and 4th pitches are... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain
By: Kellen Holt When: Mar 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Made it out to this crag for the first time in 6 years after climbing here a handful of times back in 2005/2006.

A few notes I wanted to add:

- This wall is almost directly south facing, and on warm days it gets flat out HOT up there. There is also little to no options for shade at the base or on the wall. Bring cool clothing (even if it's cold at the parking area, you're probably going to want to be in t-shirt and shorts), and LOTS of water. We got stuck here on an exceptionally warm day (... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Snakes In The Grass (5.10a)
By: Kellen Holt When: Mar 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route today. Maybe I missed some key holds, but I did feel parts of the slab borderlined on 5.10 (I somewhat remember the part past the second bolt to be a bit tricky). The two bulges above felt like the cruxes. Overall a good route for a 5.10 climber. Every time it felt like it was going to get tough, a key hold would appear that helps you pull through. Also, long slings are somewhat helpful at the top of the route to avoid rope drag, but not necessary.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Welcome to Bohemia (5.10a)
By: Kellen Holt When: Nov 6, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Easily Top-roped after leading Rocket in My Pocket, or vice versa.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Kellen Holt When: Nov 3, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Thought the crux of this route was between bolts 1 and 2. After that the angle eases a very tad, and then once you hit the big basketball sized knob (great rest), the features and movements are a little more defined. Putting a bolt anchor at the top will always be a heated debate, but always bring a few hand sized cams to build a natural one in the perfect crack at the top. Easiest retreat is going back towards the bong and doing the walkoff back there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Child's Play (5.10c R)
By: Kellen Holt When: Nov 1, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Found this route surprisingly good. Technical stemming and then sport climbing-esque moves to pull the roof. Could but pro would basically be placed in all of your holds. A great top-rope.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Double Dip (5.6)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: A #3 Camalot and a #10 Trango flexcam protected the flake just fine. The moves off the flake are stout, but not impossible for the grade. Definitely not sport bolted at the top, but the higher you go, the easier the grade.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: CLASSIC!!! Good jams, locks, and face holds where you need them. Excellent feet all around the crack, and this thing eats gear, especially nuts. Face section did not seem difficult, but this will depend on how early or late you leave the crack. Rap bolts are good as of 12/28. Excellent route, but extremely popular. Take a number, but wait out the line - it's worth it!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Only 5.6 if you start way left. Starting straight on, or 5 feet from either way is definitely harder and a tad spicy. I got a purple camalot in, but then ran it to the crack. Possible ground fall below the crack, but not enough to garnish an R/S rating. Once you hit the crack, the gear and jams are excellent. I got worried towards the top, as the crack widens, but the rap bolts allow you to anchor without gear. Beginning to intermediate leaders will want a 3.5 or 4 towards the top. Rap bo... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : No Calculators Allowed (5.10a)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Felt pretty good for the grade. Definitely harder than Count on your fingers, and it's steeper at the top. Place a good piece at the horizontal below the final overhang and then fire the moves to the top. Placing gear in the vertical cracks during the meat of the overhang will flame you out, plus you take away good holds by doing so. A good lead or top-rope - fire it!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Count on Your Fingers (5.9)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent Climb! Probably won't reach classic status, but a hidden gem IMHO. Good gear and climbing, and a provoking crux bulge at the end. Gear was excellent, with many excellent nuts. Get this one wired and then do No Calculators.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree ... (5.6)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: A great first lead, with almost no jamming needed and excellent gear. Pretty short though, otherwise it would get more stars.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Mike's Books (5.6)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 31, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I found the top of the first pitch akward off-width, but looking back, you could chimney or face climb. If you are not tuned to Jtree runouts, bring a #4 or so piece to protect the wider parts. I ended up thrutching and groveling 15 feet out from a #3 camalot. Don't jump on this route without atleast giving it a once over. Anchor bolts were good as of 12/28/05.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Toe Jam (5.7)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 22, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: The route has great gear up until the vertical crack section at the top. A small cam (yellow alien worked for me) can be placed midway through the crack, and its probably the best gear in this section, IMO. A few nut options exist, but I wouldn't say they're the best. However, even if you were to fall here, all the awesome gear below the vertical crack will keep you safe.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Caveman (V6)
By: Kellen Holt When: Dec 22, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: When friends and myself tried it, we started on the blocky arete on the right side, using an ok crimb/edge with the right hand and the base of the good flake for the left. A depression low on the right can be used to lock a good heel hook. From here we either threw to the good part of the left hand flake, or just bump to it. After that is long throws to over hanging jugs with smeared feet, and then the tunnel of the cave. Good luck. I believe the joshua tree bouldering guide rates this high... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Lost Shoe near buttermilk bouldersNorthern CaliforniaKellen HoltNov 6, 2006
Lost Shoe near buttermilk bouldersNorthern CaliforniaKellen HoltNov 4, 2006

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Sail Away 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hidden Tower

Double Dip 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Rock - West Face

Child's Play 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Jihad 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Holy Wars Cliff

Papa Woolsey 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - Southeast Face

The Bong 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - North Face

Leaping Leaner 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Locomotion Rock

No Calculators Allowed 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Count on Your Fingers 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Welcome to Bohemia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Holy Wars Cliff

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Mike's Books 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Intersection Rock

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Child's Play

5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Papa Woolsey

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - Southeast Face

Welcome to Bohemia

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Holy Wars Cliff

No Calculators Allowed

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Count on Your Fingers

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Sail Away

5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hidden Tower

Leaping Leaner

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Locomotion Rock

Double Dip

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Rock - West Face

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Thin Wall

Mike's Books

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Intersection Rock

The Bong

5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - North Face

Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>