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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Junco (5.8+)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roof on the fist pitch is a bit tricky until you figure it out. Not sure about 5.7, but it's only one move.
I have yet to be able to pull the roof on the last pitch. I have finished with the east slab. I about dislocted my shoulder a number of times..ha! Im sure it's all there but I just can figure it out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lost Flatiron : North Face Right (5.6)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this as two short pitches. I was swarmed by ants at the first belay on this less than interesting route. No crowds though, that's for sure.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Polyester Leisure Suit (5.11b)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing above the roof, in my opinion isn't all that great. The crux moves are fun.
It is possible to get some psychological pro in the wet crack before you clip the first bolt, but don't hope for much, and you would want to back clean it after clipping the bolt. You know how it is when your intimidated, you think weird things...ha.
For a TR, climb the first pitch of the west face and move right at the top.
It is possible to continue on to climb the Big Deal Pinnacle. I remember it being... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Bailey's Overhang (5.8)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route fun and well protected. The overhang moves at the top are easy once you see it.
I echo what is said above that the climbing after the first pitch is less than great and your options to rap are sketchy at best. Worth the hassel though, very fun movement.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Weird route. The first pitch (or two as some people do it) is not very aesthetic or fun, at all. Once you reach the bolted belay, the climbing is steep and fun for the grade, but be very mindful of rope drag, unless of course you are fond of climbing one handed with a mouthful of slack just to manage the drag....
If you can, run it out a bit, it's much more enjoyable that way.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know a lot of people would frown on this but, this climb is a great place to practice aid climbing (clean of course), along with the aid roof a little farther west on Castle Rock. If your rusty and headed for a big wall or trying to learn, taking laps on this is great fun.
Side note: Try to climb this when it is not conducive to free climbing, i.e. cold, night, early am, winter or the like. Be mindful, if aid climbing, that this is a very popular and quality free line and chocking it up for h... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette : East Face/First Flatironett... (5.2)
By: KeithRD When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. My opinion: Don't bother with a rope, it will do you more harm than good. If you are not comfortable climbing this 'sans rope', then ya might want to leave it for another day.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: KeithRD When: Apr 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a great route but not a horrible one either. I personally feel like it would be a great beginner route. On the second pitch (relative I know) head up the wider crack with the choke stone and not the thin crack that goes straight up.
Also, from the notch above what is the obvious second pitch, it is possible to head up a couple chimneys and some random face moves to make the climb end on the summit proper. This is probably off route but it puts you on the summit as opposed to the traditional... more >>
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