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Location: MichaelClimbs : Crazy Bear in AZ : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is crazy. I had no idea a bear could traverse a line like this. Makes you wonder if they sometimes use our fixed tyrolean lines to avoid getting wet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : NED (Nothing Except Dynamic... (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was trying to figure out who that was in the background. Man, those were the days, Bob soloing NED on one side of the canyon, Charlie bouldering over on the Bastille, probably numerous other honemasters clinging to the canyon walls at that moment. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing all these classic photos.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : NED (Nothing Except Dynamic... (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw Kurt Albert solo this once, so it has seen a second solo ascent. It was the late '80s or early '90s. Wolfgang was there taking photos, but he did not solo it, or at least, not while I was watching. Probably the sickest solo I've ever witnessed, although Kurt made it look casual.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks all. Jeff, I feel the same about your photos. Great stuff!
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Location: Pete Hickman : pics : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh man, don't be giving the bioengineers any ideas. This could get ugly real quack.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Jeff. It was a bit chilly but made for good sticking weather. There is a new pin. It's a Lost Arrow that sticks out a bit, but it seemed pretty good for now.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gillett's topo seemed to be spot on, except I do agree the crux comes lower in the 5th pitch and not near the top where both topos suggest. Besides that, it seemed very accurate. Thanks for replacing the bolts, Eli! Great route!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks guys. Yeah, stupid Boulder watershed. I mean, don't they know all of us Boulderites drink deionized, reverse osmosis, vitamin enriched water with a double twist of lemon and a little spritzer anyway? I mean, doesn't everybody? Who cares if there is a little piss in the tap water. C'mon! Look at the north ridge of that thing!
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Location: Mark Cushman : Bolters Gone Wild : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That one might actually come in handy. I wouldn't chop that one.
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Location: Jesse Ramos : First Album on MtnProject : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is just awesome...
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is one sweet crack and photo.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : Lakeview (5.6) : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really? They knew the old man was going to fall off some day and they tried to save it with this? That thing, the old man's face that is, was huge. This looks rather meager. I don't know what else they could have done though. Maybe a few hundred gallons of epoxy or something. Actually, now that I look at it closer, it does look like they used some kind of glue. Crazy.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeremy,
That sounds like a classic Valley of the Gods ascent. It must have been a bit dicey soloing all those summits. It doesn't get much wilder than soloing around in the Valley... takes a certain kind person to enjoy that stuff. Rock on brother!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Saved by the Bell (5.11a)
By: Keen Butterworth When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly good and easily overlooked. I never even really noticed it before. D'Antonio's new guidebook doesn't have this route listed and shows it on the topo as Epiphany Variation, but after reading the route description for that on MP (called Epiphany Direct) that route is obviously over to the right, and strays off of Epiphany, as you would expect.
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Location: Pernell : etc... : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hah! Is this what they do to people who reveal the approach? Seriously dude, that looks dicier than the Bachar-Yerian.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Bullwinkle Tower : East Chimney (5.9)
By: Keen Butterworth When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA was done by Randall Weekley and Jonathan Auerbach thinking they were doing the second ascent of the West Chimney.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Petard Tower
By: Keen Butterworth When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: AKA Prairie Dog on a Mound. When Frosty and I climbed this thing in the late 80s, we were the first to sign in the register since George and Bill's first ascent. The register was in an old pill bottle that was for George's wife's birth control prescription. Classic! I know Todd Gordon had climbed it in between the FA and our ascent from Todd's Loose Rock article. They must have missed the small register though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure where the original route went, but I do know that one of the sailors fell over drunk some time ago. Judging from this picture, possibly two of them went overboard. Maybe part of the original route went with them.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Eagle Canyon : Eagle Canyon, Head Of Sinba... : Mother Goose- Nursery Rhyme... (5.6)
By: Keen Butterworth When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, I just saw this. That's classic. Those guys were nuts! Where did you see that? Did they have a name for the formation? They probably went up one of the chimney/gully systems. I doubt they did Nursery Rhymes in their cowboy boots, but who knows. Anyone who has seen Swasey's Leap knows those two were pretty wild and crazy.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Three : International Chimney (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry to hear that George. Sounds like the man lead a remarkable life, and not just climbing. Thanks for sharing.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Three : International Chimney (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey George. That's funny. Frosty's real name is Forrest, a cool name too, but everyone has called him Frosty as long as I've known him, which is a long time. Not sure how that started. Keen is my middle name, but it is the one my Dad goes by also. My first name is Abner. You can see why we go by our middle names. I was reading about a first ascent awhile back and saw George Bell, not Jr, and it was before your climbing time I believe. I wish I could remember the route now, in the Tetons maybe?.... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Bartizan Wall : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Jan 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the proudest lines in the Needles. Too sketchy for most though. Has anyone ever tried to TR this thing with a long rope? You would probably want to belay from the top, and it looks like it may be hard to get to, but might be worth the effort.
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Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Keen Butterworth When: Dec 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another grim byproduct of these oil and gas wells, that is often overlooked, is the lights that accompany them, and they are usually very bright lights. One of the things I've always loved most about the desert is being out in the middle of nowhere at night and not seeing a light for miles in any direction. The places on earth where you can experience this are rapidly dwindling, especially here in the states. Because you can often see great distances in the desert, just one rig can ruin that exp... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : The Wishbone : North Face (The Wishbone) (5.8 A2+)
By: Keen Butterworth When: Dec 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darren, Thanks for the kind words and replacing the slings. Nice photos too. That is cool that you did Squaw clean. I would def be interested in seeing the gear list for that one as it is one I wouldn't mind repeating someday. Not sure about the other part of the Bone. It hadn't been climbed when I did WB and I haven't walked over there since. Rage on...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10) : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dicey nuts placement!
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