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Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux.  Photo by Drake Martin.


Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 892
Total Points: 859
Last Year: 163
Last 30 Days: 1
66 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2214 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 100 | Page Improvements | Comments 279 | Posts 1469 | Stars 203 | Ratings 155
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Question Authority (5.12a)
By: KCP When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Short but no giveaway. Super fun boulder problem on a rope.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Zone of Silence : Effigy for Silent King (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: I think this is the pitch I watched Lynn onsight, last time I was down there. Nice looking line.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Estrie - Eastern Townships ... : Mount Orford (Pic aux Corbe... : ... : Varech (5.11a)
By: KCP When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Sparse gear, but fun OS lead. The first route I did at Orford. Looking forward to sampling the harder lines on the far right sector.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: Those monos are all over the place. Mark has earned more respect than to be accused of manufacturing holds by people who probably don't even know him. I've known him for decades, and if he says he did not drill that pocket, I have no doubt in that he didn't. Accusing someone like Mark, without sufficient evidence and whose route-development résumé speaks for itself, is bad form.

If this bolted route isn't your style, there's always RP or Not to Be, in Eldo. It's barely 12a, and you should ha... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Color of Pomegranates (5.12c R)
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: How hard is the R-section, and are the bolts any good?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: KCP When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Bob is correct in that retrobolting established, serious routes is an affront to many who have successfully accepted the challenge. I am one of those folks. Retrobolting routes like Perilous Journey and Clear The Deck would be offensive to me.

That said, I have a question and a comment about the bolts on Aerospace. Was the route TR-rehearsed and then bolted and led? If so, then anyone leading the route onsight has done it in purer style than the first ascensionist, negating the relevancy of di... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Tales of Power (5.12b) : Photo
By: KCP When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: No more rope.
No more rope.



Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a) : Photo
By: KCP When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the killer photo, Drake!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Steel Pulse (5.11c)
By: KCP When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: Better warm up for Frisky than the 10c, and just as fun. I'd give it 3 stars if it weren't for all the friable holds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a) : Photo
By: KCP When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Team effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13a) : Photo
By: KCP When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Is it harder, easier, or about the same?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: KCP When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Odd that The Nose is a free climb with several free ascents and is listed here as an aid route. Out of respect for Lynn's enormous effort to free the route, and also for those who have freed it since, The Nose should be recorded here as what it is (5.14a). It is no longer an aid route, regardless of how many people pull on the gear to get up it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice upgrade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Is this near the side rail on the first pitch?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: Twitch: consensus 12d. Sinopia is harder.
Anarchitect: consensus 12d. Sinopia is harder.
The Beast: consensus 13a. Sinopia is harder.

If you're very tall with a healthy ape index and requisite skill, this route might feel easier for you.


Location: KCP : Home Board 2015 : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments:



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: KCP When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I don't doubt you, Greg, although I flash consensus V5-6 pretty consistently, and this felt nowhere near that easy. I must have missed some key beta. It is pretty easy all the way to what felt like two burly moves on a micro-crimp, a nothing-sloper, and crap for feet, and then it eases way up on the top-out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: KCP When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Classic problem. Maybe something broke, because this is not V6. More like solid V7. The crux feels harder than Valhalla and Girlfriend's Backside, unless I'm missing something.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Milton (V4)
By: KCP When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still felt stout for V4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wingless Victory (5.13a/b R)
By: KCP When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know what shape the bolts are in?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015.

Rock Climbing Photo: Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.
Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.



Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: An easy fix is to use long draws, which would hang below the actual Mussy Hooks, et al.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: The other two pics have the Mussys, This one is meant to show the simplicity of going from tr to rap. I'll take redundancy any day. Stuff fails. It's the nature of the beast.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: The anchors need an upgrade. I'd do it, but I don't own a drill.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: If you all are referring to the clip in the middle of the headwall, it's dead easy from the good crimp out left near the arete. No reason to clip it from the bad slot in the crack. 11c/d hanging the draws. 11b/c with them already hung. Interesting movement the entire way. Bullet the Brown Cloud is less sustained, although the crux move is much harder at about 11+. 11a/b for BTBC is way off the mark.


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