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paralysis by analysis


Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: Feb 26, 2014
Contact Kayte Knower


Point Rank: # 1,839
Total Points: 312
Last Year: 71
Last 30 Days: 0
73 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kayte Knower been climbing?










Contributions


All 175 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments | Comments 32 | Posts 65 | Stars 34 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Thank You for Holding (V3-4)
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: This is such a fun problem! The best tactic is to rest and eat shot blocks while the guys clean the whole thing and then jump on it while they are resting.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Kayte Knower When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: I think it's probably the same spot. That's a tiny cam and I remember that it keyed in from the right. I can imagine getting a "decent" RP there, but I bet it was super tricky to place it. I definitely didn't want to test my little cam. It is neat that the technology has improved so much. It makes me really appreciate what it was like to climb before.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Kayte Knower When: Dec 12, 2009

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Comments: Actually, I think this is the purple black Diamond C3, similar to grey TCU or black alien. I found a great little spot for it to the right of the crimps just after the crux. It's a small piece but the rock is excellent and it made me feel more comfortable about the rest of the route.

I did place your blue TCU later on though...snug as a bug.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Recluse (5.10d)
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 10, 2009

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Comments: In keeping with so many NH finger cracks, this one packed a lot more punch than I expected from the ground. I'm not sure that I figured out the trick beta though. Definitely a fun line with great pro and nice movement.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R) : Photo
By: Kayte Knower When: Aug 25, 2009

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Comments: Proud lead! Did you write down the gear for me? I want an appendix B for Mouse's Misery. How did the lead feel? It looks a bit spicy. And how did you start the route? I can never tell exactly where Mouse's begins...


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags
By: Kayte Knower When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: The Kancamagus Crags are little pockets of wilderness climbing along the Swift River in the White Mountains. While Sundown Ledge sees more consistent traffic than the rest of these crags, the area as a whole offers a remote climbing experience compared to the usual NH destinations of Cathedral, White Horse, and Rumney.

The approaches to many of these crags are hard to find and strenuous. (Despite repeated attempts, no one I know has actually made it to Crag-Y.) However, this adventurous hik... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13)
By: Kayte Knower When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Interesting. I wonder which start is more standard -- the "right" start by DL standards. I know routes are often strictly defined here. I definitely enjoyed starting on Upper-D though.

The singing as a whole was pretty chaotic, but one of them at least had a real set of pipes.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13)
By: Kayte Knower When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Let the DL purists flay me alive, I led the start of Upper Diagonal into Flake Route instead of doing the real start over the dead tree (AKA the huge spike). Since Upper-D trends left and the Flake crux traverses right, I used double ropes. This perfectly eliminated the rope drag and, as a bonus, made me feel extra cool on the airy upper crux.

It was a quintessentially Devil's Lake experience. I had a half-moon at my back for most of the climb, with the lake and talus below glowing in the suns... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: Kayte Knower When: Feb 4, 2009

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Comments: My good friend got on this route as her first 5.11. I'd say it's not going to hurt anyone to let the grade stand as is. At 5'2", the crux was plenty hard for me. The climbing on this route is really pleasant, and it offers a nice break from the hot sun in the middle of the day.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Suburban (5.13a) : Photo
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Lee, this is incredible. You must be doing your yoga these days.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Smokestack (5.9+)
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: I concur. The best 5.9 at Rumney. Definitely not your average sport climb.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Vultures (5.10d)
By: Kayte Knower When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: I'm a lady with small fingers and an affection for finger cracks. I don't know if I missed something, but I barely jammed the crack at all until after the crux--which for me, was all face moves. I agree that Vultures is a well protected route, but the pro was a lot harder to place than I had expected. I wouldn't call it an easy tick, regardless of finger size. Definitely a great route, but not a good one to underestimate with the crux so near the ground.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Chris,

Thanks first of all for the tone of your post, conversational not combative. I really appreciate that.

Briefly, about the fixed nut, I think you need it in order to tram in. Since the anchors are so far to the right and so overhanging compared to the start of the route, if you lower off the anchors after leading the route, you can't swing over far enough to get your gear out of the initial crack. Believe me we tried.

I agree with all of your points about style, and will readily admi... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: Eds. This comment was originally under a different route and moved here. Thanks to all involved.

When I added this route, I realized that it would generate some controversy. I've never met Josh, so I did not mean to imply that he considered the bottom half of The Avenger to be a route in its own right. I simply read his comment and felt encouraged to give the bottom half a shot. I know I took liberty with his description. I would love to know what Josh thinks of me adding "The Adventur... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Kayte Knower When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: Eds. This was originally posted as a route. With the poster's consent, this has been converted to a comment. Thanks to all involved.

Josh Warton described the first half of The Avenger as a "worthwhile 12a." For those not up to the 5.13 finish of the Avenger, the steep offwidth and fist crack up to the fixed nut is a fantastic route in its own right, and not as contrived as it might seem. To clarify that I was gunning for the fixed nut with no plans to venture out the underclings, I ... more >>


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : Manic Depression (5.11c)
By: Kayte Knower When: Jul 22, 2007

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Comments: I think the debate over the grade of Manic Depressive could be related to beta. I'm 5'2" so slapping up either side of the bulge was really hard for me. Jay used an undercling to bypass the last two slap moves before the top of the bulge. That beta made the crux considerably easier. With that beta, I would probably would put this route at 11c, as it was quite reachy for me. I'd say it's less sustained than Pagan Rituals. I think the cruxes of the two routes are equally hard, albeit differe... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : Clean and Jerk (5.10c)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: Probably my favorite pitch of trad climbing to date. It doesn't look that tall from the ground, but it was plenty pumpy. I really had to commit to get through the bottom. Steep, clean as a whistle (or should I say jerk), and well protected. Even the little chimney is nice, like a granite recliner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Prepackaged (5.10a)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: Why must you downgrade? Can't it just be a fantastic route? I hear so many people bitch about the bad attitude of sport climbers at Rifle, yet here it is in the heart of trad climbing. Leave the grades alone. One of my favorite routes ever. I couldn't decide though...do you crawl through the hole at the top? How cool is J-tree?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Dogleg (5.8)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: Really sustained, engaging jamming. I got punished on the start. I hope I was doing it wrong.


Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Couch Potato (5.9)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 3, 2007

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Comments: Couch Potato is a tricky little endeavor. The start can twist you into pretzel shapes, and the upper bulge has nice movement through the crux, that is, if you find the right holds in the right order. In between, the comfy holds and closely spaced bolts keep you smiling.


Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Bullwinkle Craters (5.11b)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 3, 2007

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Comments: I really like this route. Some of the holds are a little sharp, but the moves are great and the top out is memorable. Shorties are nice too.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Lies and Propaganda (5.9)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 3, 2007

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Comments: This was my first ever project at Rumney. I was so proud to top out onto that slab. It's still one of my favorites.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 3, 2007

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Comments: I like this route. Nice Rumney crimping, straightfoward in places and tricky in others. It has some cool technical moves, and reminded me of Smith Rocks.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: Kayte Knower When: Mar 3, 2007

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Comments: Apocalypse is one of my favorite routes at Rumney. It's a neat little area, sort of tucked away. On chilly days the face is drenched in sunshine. The route is the best of both worlds, long moves up steep rock at the bottom, then you pull onto the face and suddenly you're scrambling for technique. Apparently there used to be a big foot before the transition so you could grab a rest before the face climbing, but no more. If you called it 11d, I wouldn't argue.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12c)
By: Kayte Knower When: Feb 19, 2007

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Comments: I know it's not the coolest route at the park, but it's one of the best routes I've ever done. That's probably because it took a behemoth effort to redpoint it, and routes that push you that hard are always memorable. But I have to think that the moves on this route would be cool even if it wasn't at your limit. It has a lot of distinct Rifle characteristics -- like wide weird pinches, a knee bar that rests your fingers but tires your core, and all kinds of chalked holds that are only useful ... more >>


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