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Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Chasm View


Member Since: Jun 23, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Kat A

Point Rank: # 1,248
Total Points: 597
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 0
93 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kat A been climbing?










Contributions


All 1017 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 92 | Page Improvements | Comments 127 | Posts 684 | Stars 87 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Crack Wars (5.11a/b)
By: Kat A When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: We were comfortable with the following rack: small stoppers, 1x blue & green alien, 2x yellow alien/0.4 camalot; triples in 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3, 4 camalots, 2x 3.5 camalots/4 friends, and a new #5. More than others suggested, but we placed it all (perhaps not the blue alien but it's light to carry...)

P1 - 100', Mostly thin gear up to #3 camalot. 3x #0.75 & #1 were very nice.
P2 - ca 70'. Mostly larger gear, #3-3.5 cams for belay (small, wedge-shaped s... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Kat A When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch is protected with #5 camalots (new size) after a bouldery start (aliens). Pitch 2 is 60m of excellent climbing - bring extra slings to alleviate rope drag. We did not feel the left-hand variation of P2 was 5.9R - more like 5.9 with a short section of easier run out (and I'm a weenie when it comes to runouts). Pitch 3 is an amazingly fun blue-collar-style-big-hands-crack that can be linked with pitch 4 (the tunnel).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11)
By: Kat A When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Aliens can be used for the window belay if you choose to do this route in 3 pitches, or you can do it in 2 by linking P1 and P2. Also, bring two #0.5 camalots for the 5.11 crux on the upper pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Photo
By: Kat A When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Upper section widens - #3.5 and #4 camalots are nice to have.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sunrise Book (5.12-)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Stellar climbing on clean rock. Excellent option if you want a shorter day at the Perch.

Agree with Aaron's suggestion on linking P2 & P3 - this worked well for us.

Gear - we took doubles up to #3 camalot, with triples in the blue-red alien sized cams. I'd use the same rack if climbing this again - it allowed us to link P2 & P3 comfortably.

P1 - Climbs nicer than it looks; delicate face moves with decent gear.
P2 - If you link P2 & P3, I'd suggest a couple large stoppers for ... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch of Fine Line felt much harder to me than any of the cruxes of the Direct Becky route - including the 5.11+ Original Becky dihedral pitch. Perhaps this is style and/or height-dependent (I'm 5'3") or the temps were just really cold that morning...

Once you are past the first pitch, the Fine Line is easier and less sustained than the Becky route, making for a shorter day. IMO, it's not as spectacular as the Direct Becky, but it's definitely a great line.

Gear beta - mostly thi... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11b)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Clean rock in a beautiful environment, with sustained, fun and varied movement - finger cracks, delicate face moves, stemming, chimney climbing, off-width climbing... Wow! One of my all-time favorite routes.

A technical 5.11a first pitch is followed by many solid 5.10 pitches. I highly recommend taking the 5.11+ dihedral of the Original Becky route in lieu of the loose blocky P4 of Direct Becky.

Gear beta - Most of the hard climbing is on thin gear, though if you choose to take the off-w... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Strongly recommend you stop at The Elephant's Perch gear shop in Ketchum/Sun Valley and pick up photocopies of the topos and any other supplies you may need. Great store. They also sell a nice color poster with the EP routes highlighted.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: A great multi-pitch in a nice setting, and it seems to not get as much traffic as one might expect. Pitch 1 is harder than it looks from the ground. Pitch 2 is just stellar! Pitch 3 felt reasonably protected following the bolt line.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Loch Ness Monster (5.11b)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Bingham's guide indicates this is on the "elephant's trunk" - indeed, if you look at it with the right perspective, you can see the resemblance. :)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Dimples and Tits (5.11a)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Height-dependent start - much harder if you're short. Good route.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Decadent - Asian Wall : Box Lunch (5.10d)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: There are now two bolts on this climb. I would suggest the leader be solid on 5.10 due to the potential for injury if he/she falls above the ledge, before the bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12)
By: Kat A When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Feels 5.12- if you have smaller hands and are a crack aficionado. Ladies - if you like green Camalot size crack and can manage a bit of purple Camalot size crack, get on this beautiful line! Funky start but great pro available after that.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome
By: Kat A When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Ivan's beta for the approach to the formation is spot-on.

Rambling Rose has updated bolts on the route and anchors, with the exception of the anchor atop the long 5.7 dihedral. The rap anchor at the top of Tee Pee Tower crack is updated as well.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Kat A When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Rating- SPlatte solid 5.10a/b, with a 5.8/5.9 R pitch.
Rack - set of stoppers plus doubles from blue alien to #4 Camalot worked well for us (you could leave the #4 behind but we did use it a couple of places).
Weather - climb early, climb fast. Storms move in quickly.
Bolts - most all have been replaced (thanks to those who updated the bolts!); only one anchor had older bolts.
P1 - ca 5.6; the standard start isn't much to write home about, 35m to the bolt anchor ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Lost in Time (5.10b)
By: Kat A When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: I was impressed by how well this route was bolted - I'm not quite 5'4" and could clip all the draws and felt the pro was well-placed for the crux moves. I placed a #4 Camalot partway up (new style, but old one would be even better). Felt harder than Ionic Column to me.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk
By: Kat A When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Some additional beta:

Camping: 8 permits are granted each day for departing the Robinson Creek trailhead, 4 of which can be reserved in advance. Applications must be sent via snail mail to the Bridgeport Ranger station at least 2 weeks in advance (they prefer 3 weeks or more) with a check enclosed,fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM.... Permits are picked up at the station the day before or the day of (no later than 10 am or they may give it away). As of April 201... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Beetle Bailey (5.10)
By: Kat A When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tongo (5.11a)
By: Kat A When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: Fun route but not recommended for a 5.10 leader unless you are comfy bouldering. There is a way for short people to do this. Ok, beta spew here for the vertically challenged, because of its unprotected start.... Use the amazingly good left foot, a higher right hand hold, and your inner thigh muscles to slowly elevate to good crimps (left hand) right of all that chalk on the rail. Phew, now breathe and continue to the bolt via the hand traverse, with spotter below you. :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9+)
By: Kat A When: May 27, 2011

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Comments: Thanks to the local climber(s) who placed wood chips down and cleaned up the area. We were there this evening, and it was quite clean. This is a fun route. It helps to anticipate "old school" ratings when climbing at Castle Rock - not like many of the other BoCan ratings.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Kat A When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: My partner and I did this route twice recently, and after each leading all the pitches we decided a good rack for this route is as follows (taking the 5.10 P1 variation): 1 blue Alien, 2 green Aliens, 3 yellow Aliens, 4 #0.5 Camalots, 4 #0.75 Camalots, 4 #1 Camalots, 3-4 #2 Camalots, 3-4 #3 Camalots, 2 #4 Camalots. P1 doubles up to #3 is sufficient (5.10 variation), P2 1 yellow Alien, 2-3 #0.5 Camalots plus everything up through a #4 Camalo... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Kat A When: Oct 10, 2010

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Comments: If you "French Free" the bolt ladder, it feels like solid 5.11 climbing between the bolts. Unless you've got Go-Go-Gadget arms.


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Red Rock Butt, and Butt-Hea... : Photo
By: Kat A When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: Lazy fat ass is right! (I'm kinda jealous, wouldn't mind that lifestyle)


Location: Wendy Laakmann : My photos : Photo
By: Kat A When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: Looks like a happy day in the beautiful desert!


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Good for the soul : Photo
By: Kat A When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: Oooh, a Date Farm! Better than on-line dating - walking around in person looking for some nice, good looking dates.


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