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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very LVABS
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool photo. Really captures the feel of the climb.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief - Center Wall : Running Bull (5.11c R)
By: Karsten When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appears that the 2nd and maybe 3rd hangers are gone from this route. It is not too difficult in those sections and so running it out is not too bad but just thought I would note that.
I agree with the posters assessment that this route is, at a minimum, solid for the grade.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief - Center Wall : Flamethrower (5.10d)
By: Karsten When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 60 meter rope you can get off in 2 rappels. Either rappel or be lowered to a set of Mussy hooks on the next route over to the left(Sitting Bull?).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Requiem for a Tadpole (5.9+) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To to the arete variation continue straight up from where Anthony is belaying in the picture above.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Photo
By: Karsten When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice aerial photos. I have thought many times about trying to get some recon photos of several remote areas from the air. Thanks for sharing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Karsten When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was one of my first climbs at Red Rocks. Harrison the younger led it very confidently and so I thought if a teenage girl can do it. . . I guess boldness runs in genes.
Shortly after this I did black magic panties (even more sketchified) and gained a new appreciation for vegas climbers.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Karsten When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stopping at the "first pitch" is so not LVABS!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Toxic (5.11b) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool! I have always just done the dyno.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Karsten When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was nice to find this route has much superior rock to the red dihedral route. Everypitch was really pleasant.
I found the last pitch going to the ridge was not straightforward once you topout on the ridge. The supertopo was not very clear where to go after you hit the top of the ridge. I am curious as to where others go there. The way we went seemed seldom traveled. I have heard some people traverse right instead of straight up on the 8th pitch to reach the ridge before you traverse right ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: Karsten When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is an FA of a new wall. Amazing that this fine climb has been overlooked for so long right under everyone's noses.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry with leg loops? Perhaps the this route should have been rated 5.7 A1.
Looks like a nice route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Karsten When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe not as good as the Handren Guide photo but here is one I took of the area from across the Canyon.
The approach crack as mentioned in above posts tops out near the bushes in the bottom left-hand side of the pic.
| Black Orpheus and the Eagle Wall
Submitted By: Karsten on Nov 19, 2006
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Traveler Buttress (5.9)
By: Karsten When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route with some very classic climbing. Not sure if it warrants the "fifty classics" title but it is got some great rock and moves.
As caughtinside stated I felt that the upper moves on the 1st pitch were the most insecure of the route but the OW will be the crux for most people. It is just a few moves of thrutching and then turns into a spectacularly fun handcrack.
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Location: CO : Black Diamond Robbed Overni...
By: Karsten When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have a couple of the older Rage model ice tools under my bed. I dream about the day someone comes in to rob me. . . . "Robber was gutted and skull crushed in when he attempted to rob and attack the occupant. The current occupant is concerned that his renter's insurance may not cover blood splatter clean-up."
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This pic is not of me but brings back some of my own memories of the climbs, great friends, and big adventures of the desert.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Farewell to Arms (5.10b)
By: Karsten When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great description Blitzo. This climb is not to be missed!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Ariel (5.10d)
By: Karsten When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently gave this route the true onsite and don't think its anywhere close to .11b. I think it is a very technical climb but comparing it to some of the other climbs in the area I think giving it a .10d rating is generous. The crux sections are all well protected.
This goes back to the age old debate about ratings but remember that they are just a guide. I think that if you were a .10b climber that you would not get hurt on this climb in its current state. Whether you TR or lead it, this... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Next time invest in some strychnine weenies. Just leave them out by your pack.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Karsten When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't seem to see the great topo listed in above comments.
Also thought I might add that for the hardmen/women out there you can approach the climb by climbing Moratorium adding a handful of more difficult pitches.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap
By: Karsten When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The number for the wildlife biologist in the "Temporary Closure" section is no longer valid.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Canyon : Windy Pk, East Face : Diet Delight (5.8) : Photo
By: Karsten When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb photo. Beautiful looking line!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: Karsten When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think this is really sport climbing. . your not hanging enough to be sport climbing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slot Club Wall : Pinball Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Apr 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think a more appropriate title for the photo might be, "Hegyes. . . use the force."
How cool would that be to use your Jedi force to place cams above you and never have to carry a rack. You could also use the force on the gate guy, "This is not an expired visitor pass, carry on."
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