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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : Crest Jewel (and Crest Jewe... (5.10d R)
By: Karsten When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the first .10a section (pitch 2) to be harder than the upper .10a pitch. Maybe because your getting used to smearing on the orange polish but the lower pitch seemed like it had harder moves. The upper .10a pitch is more sustained with delicate moves through about 3 bolts.
I don't know whether I would call this route R or not. There are large runnouts but as stated on easier ground. The 9th pitch has one bolt and so technically you could take close to a >100ft cheesegr... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Aeolian Wall (Original Rout... (5.9 A3)
By: Karsten When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of years ago when we did it Paul Van Betten said he thought we were maybe the 6th ascent (I think he had been on 3 prior ascents himself).
You might be able to get the A2 pitch clean but the A3 would be very difficult. I don't know of any cams that fit knifeblade cracks. You clip several old 1/4 inch bolts and then place quite a few knifeblades in the roof. I remember several being a little loose and one shifted on me while I was on it. Yikes! The next ascent party may have to sta... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Nadia's Nine (5.9)
By: Karsten When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was under the impression this was a clever play on words and sports about Nadia Comaneci, the famous Romanian gymnast known for scoring the first perfect 10 at the 1976 Olympics. The route FA was in 1977.
You could be the stingy judge that gave her a 9 but everyone else would know her performance was really a 10. Hence this routes provenance. You can call it a 5.9 but when you climb it you will know it is really a 5.10.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Karsten When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few years ago Josh Thompson and Joanne Urioste put up the first line to my knowledge on the right side of this wall. I did the second ascent and found it to be an adventurous route. On my ascent we evidentally took a variation that bypassed the best climbing on the route. Oh well.
The easiest way to approach this wall is from the top, taking the old 4x4 road that goes out willow springs. If taking the loop road expect around a 4 hour approach to get to the base. Even from the backside app... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Deception (5.6)
By: Karsten When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Before the crux section I was able to place a large #5 camalot C4.
I did an alternative to the crux traverse. Where you would traverse right I continued up the corner. A few feet up you can exit the corner on left on a series of dikes. This is runnout but maybe only slightly more so than the traverse and once you step out onto the dikes the climbing is fairly easy. Continue up the dikes and make an easy traverse back right onto the usual line.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Mass Production Wall : Battery Powered (5.9) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like the aviator shades, nice touch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Gateway Crag : Harsh Width (5.9) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta love people that seek out pain.
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Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Juneau : Mendenhall Towers : Iron Curtian (5.12a)
By: Karsten When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route description and topo indicate 5.12. Is the 7th pitch the 5.12?
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Photo
By: Karsten When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You captured this beast in great light. A++++
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Eagles Nest : Out For Blood (5.10a)
By: Karsten When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice looking route. Cool to see some people getting after it down there sans bolts.
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Location: Darren in Vegas : Ruth Gorge, Alaska 2012 pho... : Photo
By: Karsten When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, and they say Yosemite didn't get much snow last year.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool photo. Looks like a fun pitch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Meyer's Cracks : Meyers' Crack (Scarred But ... (5.10c)
By: Karsten When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also wanted to add: start at the bottom and move in a generally upward direction. To descend go back down. I second the emphasis on shoes and carabiners.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Blood Wall : OW Negative (5.9 C2+) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah. . . forgot about this one. Someone should go free this.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : North America Wall (5.8 C3)
By: Karsten When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9/2012 there was not the loads of fixed gear I was expecting. The route was much more involved than what it looks like on paper. We hand placed a few sawed-offs, one tomahawk, and hammered back in one "fixed" lost arrow on the last pitch. The aid is never too difficult but there are some do-not-fall places that have less than inspiring gear. There is loose rock but it is pretty easy to avoid most of the time.
To the above rack would agree on having a #5 camalot or equivalent,... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very Rockstaresque John.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Karsten When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps you need to take it easy with the psilocybin. Cool photo.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I ♥ run-outs 2
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Location: Karsten : Notable Partners : Photo
By: Karsten When: Aug 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric Zschiesche climbs "Tricks are for Kids" as Chick Holtcamp belays.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Cinnamon Hedgehog (5.10a) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhh, the memories.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Gnat Man Crag : P-Coat Sleeve (5.10a) : Photo
By: Karsten When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hear all the crushers are moving to Sacramento.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Finger Lickin' Area
By: Karsten When: May 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to the right of where Snatch Power tops out there is a new bolted anchor set up for rapping. We rapped off a bush for Jaw Bone but used the anchor for Snatch Power.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Finger Lickin' Area : Petty Larceny (5.11b)
By: Karsten When: May 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say this is NOT a great climb if your breaking into the grade. Deck potential on the hardest moves down low is not a good combination for a budding .11 leader.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Finger Lickin' Area : Finger Lickin' (5.10d)
By: Karsten When: May 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the Valley suber classics but gets less traffic due to being sandwiched by areas nearby packed with good climbing. This climb is a great one to push your grades as it takes good gear the entire length and takes you through a variety of sizes without having to take a massive rack.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Blood on the Tracks (5.9)
By: Karsten When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been looking at this line for years. Glad you guys had fun. Looks like a peach of a route.
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