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Rock Climbing Photo: Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (...


Member Since: May 10, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 28, 2016
Contact karl vochatzer

Point Rank: # 5,953
Total Points: 89
Last Year: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has karl vochatzer been climbing?










Contributions


All 170 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 21 | Posts 9 | Stars 75 | Ratings 52
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Leap of Faith (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 35'

TX : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Little Guide's Wall

Jul 4, 2013

Rattled (FA)

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 35'

TX : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Little Guide's Wall

Jul 4, 2013

The Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'

VT : Deer Leap

Jul 2, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful winter day at Morgan's Point on Captai...

A beautiful winter day at Morgan's Point on Captain Hook.

TX : Morgan's Point : Mikey's Warm Up (5.11a)

Dec 30, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (...

Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (May 2013)

The People of Mountain Proj... : karl vochatzer : Austin Texas Limestone

Jul 2, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Chris getting started on the roof section of The P...

Chris getting started on the roof section of The Price Is Right (5.11a)

AL : Sand Rock : ... : Price is Right (5.11a PG13)

Nov 27, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Heel hooking the start on Austin, TX limestone in ...

Heel hooking the start on Austin, TX limestone in the Barton Creek Greenbelt (Charlie Don't Surf 5.10d). Girlfriend (Annette) is belaying.

The People of Mountain Proj... : karl vochatzer : Austin Texas Limestone

Jul 6, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Hollywood (5.7)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hey guys, all of the comments above, the last sentence of the route description and the photo are all about the route that I bolted called The Mongrel, not Hollywood. Hollywood is the open book dihedral to the right of the three slick face routes with the giant ledge halfway up the cliff.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Hollywood (5.7) : Photo
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Lee. The Mongrel is actually dead center between the two trees in your photo. I know since I sank all of the bolts when developing the route. Only the top of Hollywood can be seen in the upper left of the photo. Hollywood is the open book dihedral on the right side of all of the slick face climbs that have the ledge above each route's second bolts. Hope that helps to clear up some of the confusion in the comments of the two routes on MP.


Location: TX : Morgan's Point : Unknown Left (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Feb 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route is noted with the black "X" marks in the attached photo. The route moves into the large hueco and out the top left side of it. The anchors are up and left of bolt #2.

The height of this route is only about 25 feet or so, no where near the stated 50.

For some reason or another someone does not want a straight up and down direct line up the easy features to the same anchors (5.7-8). Bolts have been removed and holes plugged with glue.


Location: Asia : Oman : North-West Oman : Hatta Crag : Central Area : ... : The Troll (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jan 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The length is 40 feet not 12 as indicated.


Location: TX : Morgan's Point : Mikey's Warm Up (5.11a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Dec 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found the placement to be contrived and a bit of a PITA to clip for the grade. Two prior bolts are knocked into their bolt holes in the face below and just right of the flakey-edged pocket as reference to where the protection used to be. As of Dec 29, 2014, there were no birds, no nests, no X and I had no issues with any of the rock in the pocket or the two huecos above and below each other under the new-ish sport anchors. I did have an issue with the rope location due to the moved last bolt f... more >>


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : The Mongrel (5.9)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: On Oct 11, 2013 I added a new bolt in the run out between bolts 2 and 3. After hearing that a climber decked on this route (that I equipped), I decided to make it a safer climb for beginners (and got Matt's CTM approval). Although it sounds like the climber decked due to falling through a back-clipped quickdraw, I decided to add the extra bolt... well, because this route IS on Seismic Wall after all. All kinds of newbie mistakes are made here and I'd rather error on the cautious side of things h... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Left End : True Value (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Glad I exited to the last bolt and anchors of the route to the left. I'm allergic to hornet stings! I was just perturbed at the guidebook saying to use the arete which seemed like really bad beta as I clung there forever trying to figure out why the last bolt was so far away from the arete and so much farther away from the anchors than I wanted it to be.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Enjoyed the crimping up the wall and figuring out the sequence getting to #3. Unfortunately, the bolting scheme seems poor. #1 is too far right (about 2 feet from the neighboring route's #1) and bolt #2 is too far left. This result is a diagonally hanging rope between the two that is right in the middle of the fall zone going up onto the overlap. I got a deep rope burn on the right ankle when I popped off the wall a few feet above the rope. The pathway is clearly left of ... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Only a Crow (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed like a low 5.10 to me especially when compared to [sandbagged to me] Romancing The Stone (5.10c). Send both and feel the difference yourself.

The crux is not that difficult to figure out. Step back on the deck and have a look to find the two right hand clipping holds at both bolts, then sort out the left hand move(s) (sidepulls mostly) and the supporting foot work (high left foot on giant crip) to get from clipping hold to clipping hold (bolts 3 and 4 I believe it was). Enjoyed it regard... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Raven (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Crankenstein : Apprehension (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Varied climbing techniques in such a relatively short distance. Love this route.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Luminaire Noir (5.11)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Ralph and I developed this route together and are awarded the FA on it. I preferred the moniker "Whimper" for the painful crimps. Since Ralph put in the application to develop this, it was his call to name it. The FA was done off the deck on the left side of bolt #1. The right side variation is a tad bit easier but was not an option back then due to a now non-existent bush.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Torpedoes Away (5.9+)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks Chance. This was the first route I ever developed. John Hogge mentored me. I got no less than a dozen people on this before sinking the bolts.


Location: MO : WM: Trapper's Camp
By: karl vochatzer When: Dec 24, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Does anyone have GPS coordinates or more detailed directions? We are visiting family in KC and will take a side trip to Osceola the week after Christmas.


Location: AL : Sand Rock
By: karl vochatzer When: Nov 28, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Made a slight detour from Atlanta on a cross-country express trip in the car to check out this crag. Sampled a couple of good lines with some friendly climbers. Very enjoyable rock here, and yes, there was plenty of local flare on this Saturday. Noted the elevation and coordinates on the GPS: 34 degrees 10.82' N by 85 degrees 49.03' W at 1630 feet elevation at the parking lot.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : The Hole : Price is Right (5.11a PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Nov 27, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I had no issues with the way the route is developed. The only possible bad (non-air) fall I saw was missing #3 and swinging back into the vertical section below #2. It would be possible to swing your legs back into the rock falling onto #3 or #4, but really only if the belayer is keeping the rope taught while you ascend past the protection causing a wrecking ball effect. Unlike most climbers when going through a crux after the last piece, ask the belayer to keep a small b... more >>


Location: TX : Medicine Wall : Old Testament Wall : Bermuda Triangles (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: 5 bolts plus two anchors with SS biners on chains. The top of the chains should be attached to the bolts with quick links not SS biners where the gates are taped shut (!).


Location: TX : Medicine Wall : New Testament Wall : Texas Caterpillar (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: 6 bolts plus glue-in bolts with chains for anchors.


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