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Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (May 2013)


Member Since: May 10, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 18, 2014
Contact karl vochatzer


Point Rank: # 5,789
Total Points: 61
Last Year: 41
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 105 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 7 | Stars 47 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Leap of Faith (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 35'

TX : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Little Guide's Wall

Jul 4, 2013

Rattled (FA)

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 35'

TX : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Little Guide's Wall

Jul 4, 2013

The Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'

VT : Deer Leap

Jul 2, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (May 2013)

Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (May 2013)

karl vochatzer : Austin Texas Limestone

Jul 2, 2013

Chris getting started on the roof section of The Price Is Right (5.11a)

Chris getting started on the roof section of The Price Is Right (5.11a)

AL : Sand Rock : ... : Price is Right (5.11a PG13)

Nov 27, 2011

Heel hooking the start on Austin, TX limestone in the Barton Creek Greenbelt (Charlie Don't Surf 5.10d). Girlfriend (Annette) is belaying.

Heel hooking the start on Austin, TX limestone in the Barton Creek Greenbelt (Charlie Don't Surf 5.10d). Girlfriend (Annette) is belaying.

karl vochatzer : Austin Texas Limestone

Jul 6, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : The Mongrel (5.9)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: On Oct 11, 2013 I added a new bolt in the run out between bolts 2 and 3. After hearing that a climber decked on this route (that I equipped), I decided to make it a safer climb for beginners (and got Matt's CTM approval). Although it sounds like the climber decked due to falling through a back-clipped quickdraw, I decided to add the extra bolt... well, because this route IS on Seismic Wall after all. All kinds of newbie mistakes are made here and I'd rather error on the cautious side of things h... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Upper Tier - Left End : True Value (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Glad I exited to the last bolt and anchors of the route to the left. I'm allergic to hornet stings! I was just perturbed at the guidebook saying to use the arete which seemed like really bad beta as I clung there forever trying to figure out why the last bolt was so far away from the arete and so much farther away from the anchors than I wanted it to be.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Enjoyed the crimping up the wall and figuring out the sequence getting to #3. Unfortunately, the bolting scheme seems poor. #1 is too far right (about 2 feet from the neighboring route's #1) and bolt #2 is too far left. This result is a diagonally hanging rope between the two that is right in the middle of the fall zone going up onto the overlap. I got a deep rope burn on the right ankle when I popped off the wall a few feet above the rope. The pathway is clearly left of ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Only a Crow (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Seemed like a low 5.10 to me especially when compared to [sandbagged to me] Romancing The Stone (5.10c). Send both and feel the difference yourself.

The crux is not that difficult to figure out. Step back on the deck and have a look to find the two right hand clipping holds at both bolts, then sort out the left hand move(s) (sidepulls mostly) and the supporting foot work (high left foot on giant crip) to get from clipping hold to clipping hold (bolts 3 and 4 I believe it was). Enjoyed it regard... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Raven (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Crankenstein : Apprehension (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Varied climbing techniques in such a relatively short distance. Love this route.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Luminaire Noir (5.11)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Ralph and I developed this route together and are awarded the FA on it. I preferred the moniker "Whimper" for the painful crimps. Since Ralph put in the application to develop this, it was his call to name it. The FA was done off the deck on the left side of bolt #1. The right side variation is a tad bit easier but was not an option back then due to a now non-existent bush.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Torpedoes Away (5.9+)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Chance. This was the first route I ever developed. John Hogge mentored me. I got no less than a dozen people on this before sinking the bolts.


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp
By: karl vochatzer When: Dec 24, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone have GPS coordinates or more detailed directions? We are visiting family in KC and will take a side trip to Osceola the week after Christmas.


Location: AL : Sand Rock
By: karl vochatzer When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Made a slight detour from Atlanta on a cross-country express trip in the car to check out this crag. Sampled a couple of good lines with some friendly climbers. Very enjoyable rock here, and yes, there was plenty of local flare on this Saturday. Noted the elevation and coordinates on the GPS: 34 degrees 10.82' N by 85 degrees 49.03' W at 1630 feet elevation at the parking lot.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : The Hole : Price is Right (5.11a PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: I had no issues with the way the route is developed. The only possible bad (non-air) fall I saw was missing #3 and swinging back into the vertical section below #2. It would be possible to swing your legs back into the rock falling onto #3 or #4, but really only if the belayer is keeping the rope taught while you ascend past the protection causing a wrecking ball effect. Unlike most climbers when going through a crux after the last piece, ask the belayer to keep a small b... more >>


Location: TX : Medicine Wall : Old Testament Wall : Bermuda Triangles (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: 5 bolts plus two anchors with SS biners on chains. The top of the chains should be attached to the bolts with quick links not SS biners where the gates are taped shut (!).


Location: TX : Medicine Wall : New Testament Wall : Texas Caterpillar (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: 6 bolts plus glue-in bolts with chains for anchors.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : The White Wall : Sporte (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Good mid-10 climbing until one move near the last or second to last bolt (it's been a couple of weeks since climbing it) unless you are tall. Seemed a tad easier than Mordor to the left.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : The White Wall : Mordor (5.10d)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: I don't have the history to know what it used to feel like, yet I agree that the lower section was a bit of a crux. The rock still crumbles on this route. I felt it deserved it original rating from McMullen's hand-drawn topo of 5.11-. Good route. I enjoyed the onsight.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Under the Boardwalk (5.10d)
By: karl vochatzer When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: Not wanting to endanger the belayer on the slippery slop of Long Walk Off a Short Pier (5.9-), I chose to do the next easiest climb at The Pier - according to the guidebook a 5.10b - very well within my abilities. With a fun and somewhat exposed start, a potentially bad landing if you don't hit the first bolt, it was clear from the beginning that this wasn't going to be a 5.10b. The climb is sustained through a series of huecos and leans back most all of the way. Many of the holds are positive a... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Dubai-based American Sport Climber - partners wanted thru 2014/05Extended Trips and Internationalkarl vochatzerJan 26, 2014
re: new routing in UAE - Feb till MarchExtended Trips and Internationalkarl vochatzerJan 26, 2014
Seeking partners in NEW HAMPSHIRE, VT and Mass for Summer 2013 Eastern and Southern Stateskarl vochatzerJul 2, 2013
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