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Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up pitch 2 of Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghol...


Member Since: Sep 27, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,684
Total Points: 251
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 1
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has K-Tanz been climbing?










Contributions


All 278 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 39 | Page Improvements | Comments 46 | Posts 85 | Stars 58 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag
By: K-Tanz When: May 17, 2016

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Comments: Hey those are my shoes! I PM'd you. Thanks!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Finland Terrace : Crystal Gazer (5.11d)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: Look for the obvious headwall with a bolted arete moving up through a roof section at about 60 feet. Easy 5.11 climbing leads into ample rest opportunity on big holds prior to a crux section at the roof. Move past the roof into 5.10 climbing on big holds for the rest of the climb. Definitely worth it to hop on, though it earns the grade from only a few moves.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Morning Mate (5.11b)
By: K-Tanz When: Dec 24, 2015

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Comments: Eric, I initially started up the right side which was a mistake. Pretty featureless stone on the right of the arete. The left side was batter but still much more insecure than I would expect at the grade. I recall working my way right up the middle and climber's left of the arete. Once through the initial bit the rock was much more featured, though I did encounter some polished footwork.

Again the line was simply fantastic, I just had some issues early off the deck.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Morning Mate (5.11b)
By: K-Tanz When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic and varied route that will challenge you. Lots of wide stemming with delicate footwork. The first few bolts are likely the technical crux, with very delicate pulling on polished stone with insecure footwork. I thought this was more difficult than .11b. To give some reference, I felt this was at least as difficult as The Rough Rider for which the consensus seems to be 11c/d.

Definitely recommended, just don't expect for it to go down as easy as the suggested grade may make it seem!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead
By: K-Tanz When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: As of 11-3-2015 the road is passable to high clearance 4wd vehicles with a rear locker. The bottom section is likely the current crux of the road. The top section, previously the crux, has been smoothed out (by hand) and if you pick your line carefully it should be fairly easily navigated.

This is still a very serious road. I slipped a bead which required airing back up and I high centered the truck on the diff at one point. The moral of the story is that the road is still not a joke and will ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag : ... : Be the Burn (5.11+)
By: K-Tanz When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic climbing ranging from gymnastic to technical. Climb ascends a gorgeous sweeping wave to a mantle followed by fun jug pulling. This climb alone and it's more difficult twin are worth making the trip. Four stars!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.6)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: About 90 feet up there is a tree with a bunch of slings around it where one can still rap to the ground. Is this the first belay station or is it best to make way up and right for the first belay?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis
By: K-Tanz When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: As of 8/24/14 a lot of the routes are underwater. You can work around almost all of the water with the exception of the easy routes on the extreme northwest side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Atlantis H2O
Atlantis H2O


Rock Climbing Photo: Water
Water



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Skeleton Key (5.10d)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Fun and thin. I think it has cleaned up a lot from what others have said. A good intro to the slab here and maybe a good warmup for "Bad to the Bone".


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Layed to Rest (5.10)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: From the anchors go up the right facing dihedral for strong lie backing and precarious balancey movement. Be mindful of parties on the ground as there is quite a bit of loose rock in the corner. Fun and tense moves to a two bolt anchor with open shuts as I recall. If you read this in time bring a wrench for a spinning nut on one of the anchors. A very fun pitch in spite of the loose rock. A 70 will make it to the top from the ground. Two 70 meter raps to the ground.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Bad To The Bone (5.12-)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: EFR speaks the truth! .11c is a hellacious sand-bag. To me this felt at least .12a Good rock quality on small holds with very delicate movement. Good route that I would go back for!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Master Blaster (5.10c)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Helmets mandatory! Pulled off multiple fist sized holds in the bolt line. Foot holds were crumbling as I went up and a great deal of the rock was visibly loose or suspiciously hollow. Rock quality detracted from the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : It's A Wanderful Life (5.11+)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: I think. 11+ is appropriate here. The crux is in your face and difficult and exiting the roof is no cake walk. The rest of the climb is straightforward and fun. First pitch could make a good warmup. Quality route!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Flying Monkeys (5.10b/c)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorites in the area. There is a shortage of tall routes in Munchkinland and this one does not disappoint. Highly featured climbing on big holds.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Everything's Gone Green (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: The new leader should not take the 5.9 rating for granted. The first roof is not a joke and there are some distinct cruxy sections. The runout at the top is nothing of note. A fun route worth doing!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Kestrel's Last Stand (5.10b)
By: K-Tanz When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Nice long moderate. Definite fun! A very good option if you are looking to climb some 10's here.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Great Race (5.10c/d)
By: K-Tanz When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: One of the better sport climbs I have been on out here! Bringing a cam for the moves from the arete to the upper face is really not necessary. I found it completely safe and well protected. A classic for the area!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Finktion Wall : Sampsonite (5.10b/c)
By: K-Tanz When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I thought the start was actually the first crux. Good and varied movement from jugs to thin crimps and back again. I thought clipping the last bolt before the finish was the crux for sure. Movement out right on good holds does indeed involve "a bunch of scary looking blocks" which creak and sound hollow but everything worked out fine. Left at this spot puts you on a ledge and intersects "Finktion Arete" and involves some steep pulling. Overall a good route. I was distracted by the sketchy soundi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: I was expecting anchors at the top of pitch one but the anchors which are there appear to be a bit out of the way. Belayed off of a couple giant slung blocks at the base of the arete utilizing the tag line.

The arete variation was safe and quite fun I thought! The dihedral is extremely intimidating but protects very well and really is 5.9. There are face holds which you can utilize and I even got a few no hands rests. You only need to lieback a few moves if you're not comfortable with it. A @P... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! I would venture to say a new classic. I misread the beta and stoppped at the first set of anchors on my first go. Don't be me! If you have a 70m cord push it all the way to the top! 70 is just barely long enough for both ends to reach. I placed three pieces between bolts 2 and 3 (two would be safe) and one between the last bolt and anchors. Go climb this!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was pretty stiff for a 5.6 but I have a feeling that's just the standard of the area. I found the first pitch to be the definite crux. The move from the starting ramp to gain the big holds on the face is tough to protect but a #3 Mastercam in a big pin scar seated pretty comfortably. Bring lots of long slings for the P1 face, I used all 10 I brought. Moving to the anchors don't be tempted to move left with the anchors at eye level, but instead move up with the anchors about ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Steel Crazy (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun route! The hangers are extremely well camouflaged though so be careful. I climbed right past the belay station at the top of pitch two and ended up tying off a ton of chicken heads before downclimbing and finding the anchors. If you find yourself tying off chickenheads or wishing repeatedly for bolts you are now off route. In doing this, though, I realized that it may be possible to link pitches two and three with a 70 meter rope....maybe. Keep your eyes open and follow the steel!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Technowitch (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: I liked this the best out of all the lines I got on while at The Tower. Golden Stairs was a close second. It cruises up to a crux section which involves a large throw or thin crimps depending on your style. Really fun safe whippers high off the ground! I thought this route was actually easier than Once Upon a Time which called for much more endurance.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Just Can't Get Any (5.12b PG13)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: I would disagree with the upgrade due to holds breaking. I missed the send on the move to the final hold and am definitely not climbing 12c/d. Just my 2 cents, though. Whatever the case she is a crimpy momma!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Treiber's Deception (5.7)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: The second "bolt" on this protecting the crux is able to be bent with your bare hands. Probably not the best first trad lead. Face moves on the offwidths are super helpful. The pro was solid where it was. A #4 is nice, but you can leave it on the ground if you have the number five for the top. Not the best time I have had out at the McDowell's. Rap off the Northwest side with a 60. Once was enough for me on this


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