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Location: GA : Lost Wall : Franklin Boys (5.7)
By: Justin Dansby When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Noticed in DCA that the 5.7 part ends at a small tree lower than we climbed at 40'. It is 5.9 from that ledge to the belay ledge I'm at in the picture.
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Location: GA : Lost Wall : Franklin Boys (5.7)
By: Justin Dansby When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Webbing at top is close to rotten use tree or backup.
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Location: AL : Jamestown : Harvest Wall : Yum Yum Tree (5.7+)
By: Justin Dansby When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Fun gear, good moves, really long, and good view from the top. I started about 5-7 ft left of R Squared in his pics and went straight up to where he is. Is that the same route?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Cool Hand Luke (5.6 PG13)
By: Justin Dansby When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say the pro isn't tricky to place if have small tri-cams and C3's or equivalent.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Arrow (5.8)
By: Justin Dansby When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian is right. The key foothold definetly makes the difference. You can't totally see it once you commit to the crimp but if you miss it this climb will feel grades harder.
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Location: TN : Stone Door/Savage Gulf : Campsite Dihedral (5.10)
By: Justin Dansby When: Jun 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone actually goes here and climbs this I will gladly remove my route description and info. PM me if you want this done.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Cave Direct (V6) : Photo
By: Justin Dansby When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bet Henry Barber could do it....
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Location: TN : Stone Door/Savage Gulf : Photo
By: Justin Dansby When: Jun 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It rained rocks when I was there. Really scary.
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Location: TN : Stone Door/Savage Gulf
By: Justin Dansby When: Jun 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a chance to visit Stone Door/Savage Gulf this past weekend. The camping is great at Savage Gulf, not for the faint of heart in the summer. We got covered in ticks. Also a highly populated copperhead and rattler area. Many great waterfalls to see at Savage and some decent looking boulders, although not sure if climbing is allowed there. Stone Door is right up the road from the Gulf if you don't hike it through the woods. We found Stone Door to be packed with hikers. Once we started cli... more >>
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Location: AL : Griffin Falls
By: Justin Dansby When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great place. Saw no one else on a weekend, unbelievable! Grades are more true to grade than Sand Rock but none are extremely sandbagged(that I saw). There are many climbs not in DCA or MP.com that are to the left of Knife Crack, some are nice moderates.
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Climber Access Threatened a...
By: Justin Dansby When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://www.timesfreepress.com/news/2008/apr/19/climber-injur>>>>>
Looks like this confirms it was at Sunset.
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Location: GA : Boat Rock
By: Justin Dansby When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boat Rock Fire report. I visited Boat Rock yesterday(4/15) to find it has been partially burned by a fire this past weekend(?). It is still smoldering in areas and within the fire control barriers. There is a note at the kiosk stating unless you see fire outside of the barriers or flames spreading do not alert the authorities. If you do see any other fire activity please call 911. FYI.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : Ghost Ranch
By: Justin Dansby When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been biking/bouldering here a few years ago, remember some of the area but looking for an electronic map. Anyone have one?
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Slip Stream (5.7+)
By: Justin Dansby When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instead of stopping and using the Bubble Bath anchors, continue up the easy face and to the anchors at the very top. You can also get to these anchors from the top of Jams and Shams and setup TR.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : Edgehog (5.10d)
By: Justin Dansby When: Mar 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone got pics of this route?
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Reckless Criminal (5.11)
By: Justin Dansby When: Mar 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys have any more pics of this one? Looks great. Is it sustained 11? The start doesn't look as bad as half way up.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Short Man's Sorrow (5.6)
By: Justin Dansby When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy climbing. Leads up to the ledge where you can continue on other routes.
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Location: AL : Palisades Park : Christmas Crack (5.10b/c)
By: Justin Dansby When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like staying only in the crack at the bottom and avoiding the jugs on the outside. If you do it this way it seems truer to grade. The bad thing is both of the jam spots are also good trad placements. I've only TR'ed it.
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Location: GA : Rocktown : The Orb : Kurk the Roach (V1)
By: Justin Dansby When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard this was Kauk the roach. As in Ron Kauk. Anyone else hear that?
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Location: GA : Boat Rock
By: Justin Dansby When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Woods Hill - I hear the SCC now is leasing this land. But, are we still crossing private property to get to it? I would like to add it, but don't want to if there are access issues.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Irene's Arete (5.8) : Photo
By: Justin Dansby When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is one of the most impressive feats I've seen in awhile. That is super exposed up there.
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : Tourist Route (V2)
By: Justin Dansby When: Jan 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob Cormany showed me a traverse on this boulder that starts on this route, crosses all the other slabs down low. It then tops out on the good slopers far right on this boulder. Anyone know if it has a name? Also, I heard Ron Kauk put up a line on the left side of this boulder in the Boat Rock Comp one year. I haven't seen it on any topos.
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : Fanny Seat (V0)
By: Justin Dansby When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also another problem that traverses farther left and tops out on a sloper and bad foot hold. Anyone know the name?
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : Gaping Crack - 5.9 Hand Cra... (5.9 V1)
By: Justin Dansby When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, anyone know the name of the new problem to the left. Seems to be in the V6-7 range. And is the one to the right between this one and Mantle called "Tits"?
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Location: GA : Boat Rock : DeWeese Slab (V4)
By: Justin Dansby When: Dec 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there also a route on this boulder called Tourist Route?
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