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Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : Ort Wall : Cowboy Up (5.8)
By: Justin Johnsen When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: If the loose rock is gone from the crux, it's probably more 5.8 than 5.9.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap
By: Justin Johnsen When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I wrote up what I know of Saturday's fall and rescue in the comments here.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Craven Image (5.7)
By: Justin Johnsen When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey L,
I know the rope team that had the fall. The climber that fell suffered two fractures but is in good spirits making a good recovery at the hospital.
My information is second hand and kind of general until I speak with the climbers in person. They were climbing Craven Image; their finishing line to the top may have been Dead Tree Direct. At 12:45 pm the second pitch leader was near the end of the route and may have run it out somewhat, with a bad stopper placement as his highest... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : Kirk Arens Arête (5.9)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Aaron and Brian for the new hardware, it made the Memorial Wall shade a fun surprise this weekend.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Old Foresthill Road limesto...
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect, see ya tomorrow!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Old Foresthill Road limesto...
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brennen, is rock inside the SRA but outside the quarry fair game for roped climbing now?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Gorilla Rock
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oops, forgot this one!
38.787982, -120.241837
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Indian Springs : Lower Tier
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Danke Mike!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : The Emeralds : Fast Food Wall : In and out urge (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey look now there are three stooges here from the Sacramento area! Good to see you on here John.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Indian Springs : Lower Tier : Flatus (5.8)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Flatus only has four bolts in the height you might expect six. The hardest moves are well protected, but a fall consequence is a bit higher as is.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Indian Springs : Lower Tier
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower Tier route sorting left to right:
Out of the Blue
Captain Cheese Dog
Super Thin
Indian Springs
RP 4 Me
Sundaze
Zephyr
Arrow Head
Flatus
Grizzly Crack
Johnny Wall is a separate area, not part of the Lower Tier at all. Any way to convert that without breaking johnnyrocks' content? I'd be glad to create it, but don't want him to lose credit for adding this helpful content.
If we can't transfer the Johnny Wall route to an area, then it should be sorted as the farthest left "route" under Low... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Holiday Rock
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 38.788158, -120.240731
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : True Grit
By: Justin Johnsen When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 38.788552, -120.242094
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Deception (5.6)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Karsten thanks for sharing, I'd been curious about that finish! I've been off route so many other little sections of this climb, may as well try that line, too.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Lizard Head
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, you can also take (walk up) the steep uphill side road shortly before the main parking. Visually you'll see it points straight at the Lizard Head, and the trail goes virtually straight there.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Folsom Lake SRA : Beeks Bight
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the beta Matt, I put your directions on the page.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, thanks JA!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: [edit/update: all dirt roads in Eldorado National Forest are open for business as of April 1, 2013.]
This is my first winter in Nor Cal, so I don't know if this is a yearly thing, or new for 2012-13.
Eldorado National Forest dirt roads are all closed the end of November until "at least April."
www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/eldorado/alerts-notices/?aid=15632
"Dirt Road Seasonal Closure in Effect Nov. 29
Date(s): Nov 26, 2012
Contact(s): Frank Mosbacher
The seasonal closure of native surface ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The main parking area is here:
37.932142, -120.462365
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Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : Ort Wall : Cowboy Up (5.8)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new guidebook gives this a 5.9.
A head-sized loose jug with a big white chalk X on it prevents the climber from taking the path of least resistance here now, making the climb's hardest moves more technical. Maybe this has changed since the current description was written? When this wobbler falls, the grade could change again, depending on the fracture line.
I found this to be slightly more challenging than Sidesaddle 5.9 next to it, not a full grade harder, but certainly on par to me.
[e... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Creepshow (5.8)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 bolts to Vacavillian's anchor.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : The Emeralds : Fast Food Wall : In and out urge (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: When you hangdog that thing for 36 hours without a break you'll understand, Mike!
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Double Wave (5.10c)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Jonathon, I edited the route description with your notes.
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Location: PA : Photo (Copy)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey PJ, that's at Ralph Stover State Park.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Big Loaf : Magik Luv Gaz (5.10b)
By: Justin Johnsen When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Sal, Duane didn't remember the names of the routes when he gave me and John our tour. He said he thought it was 5.9 ish starting on the left bolt, 5.10a ish starting on the right. That sounds right about the class 4 walk up after that.
I put up the only pic I could find of the right start.
I googled around for what the only names that might fit online - do I have this one right? Who should I put down for FA pre-drill?
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