Contributed Comments |
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: juancho When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: put a sock in it already
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Lower Cathedral Spire : South by Southwest (5.11a)
By: juancho When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.10c and classic!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wild Rose Buttress : Ass Pin (5.10b)
By: juancho When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route "Ass Pin" is squeezed in tight. The photo shows the cracks on either side of it, both of which are good routes (or variations). The bolts detract from the ambiance
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : By Hook or By Crook (5.11b PG13)
By: juancho When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would have loved to find a fixed stopper right there. The pro at the crux, while good, was very hard to place due to the pumpmeter redlining.
The 3rd pitch is great but the 2nd is by far the gem.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Bloody Tax Break (5.10b)
By: juancho When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would also call this route contrived but if that is not acceptable, how about: this route sucks./
Not recommended!!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Ellery Bowl : The Speed of Life (5.11b)
By: juancho When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is pretty damn good in its own right. second is off the charts. So-called 5.11 move at the start is more like 5.10, the 5.11 comes toward the end- fighting the pump.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13)
By: juancho When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes but it's kind of a pain. Aiding the finger crack is probably easier
I don't understand the recommendation to downlead the roof crack. You can walk off the top, there is a rap anchor up there a ways.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Shit Howdy (5.11-)
By: juancho When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was good but not outstanding. Short and the rock is not that wonderful, but still definitely worth doing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: juancho When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun climb but too short to be 4 stars. Good warmup for the Desert Reality.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Spring Break (5.11+)
By: juancho When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yess a hard onsight, probably a lot easier on toprope. GOod gear but it's hard to see from below
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: juancho When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack switch and the roof at the top are killer. Memorable lead. Toprope it and it would lose a lot of the magic. Go for it..
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : 9 Lives (5.12a)
By: juancho When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best. Casual for little hands – pumpy for avg hands. The finish is the icing on the cake. Not cruxy but awesome.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: juancho When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun climb but no 5.12- imho. Maybe in Vegas, 11+ anywhere else.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: juancho When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll spare you all the eloquent soliloquy outlining my persoanl philosophy of life, climbing, enlightenment and the fine points of plauqe making etc etc etc...... just wanted to thank Chris and Sam for a lot of mostly thankless work in the desert!!1 I think you guys are hitting hte nail on the head with your comments re plaques.
The anti plaque brigade ends up sounding pretty uptight and more and more annoying. i Loved the copyright info on SIGNS. time to lighten up dude!!!!!!!
(This post © 2... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: juancho When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: nolte took the words out of my mouth. I remember my friend telling me we were going to do a classic 5.10. While we were walking I looked up and saw this crack and just about shit. WHAT'S THAT?? Is it 5.11? 5.12?
I couldn't believe t when he said no that's the 5.10 we're after. It is an awesome route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : unnamed (5.10+)
By: juancho When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: one of my favorites. One of the anchor bolts is stamped SC - Steve Caruthers FA? Steep, exposed, classic shit! Awesome photo Jonas.
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