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my better side


Member Since: Jun 28, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact jtwalter


Point Rank: # 736
Total Points: 844
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 289 | Routes 43 | Areas 3 | Photos 65 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 32 | Stars 81 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Pocket Change (5.11a)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 12, 2007

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Comments: This is probably the climb at Division that sees the most whippers. The climbing is typical pocket pulling up to the last bolt and then the horror show begins.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Sticky Revelations (5.10a)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 8, 2007

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Comments: There's a variation about 7 feet to the right of this route with a separate set of anchors at the ledge for the top of the first pitch. I don't know if this is a new route or just a variation of Sticky Revelations. If felt like about a .7/8. I'm guessing that it's a variation to the first pitch of Sticky Revelations because it's such a popular route.

BTW, there are bolts all over this wall these days. It's like an outdoor multi-pitch gym.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : ... : Southeast Face (5.11-)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 8, 2007

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Comments: Great video of Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell, Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet climbing Lotus Flower Tower.

www.dailymotion.com/video/xh15m9_lotus-flower-tower-rockclim>>>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Past Lives (5.9)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 7, 2007

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Comments: There's a pretty wide section of the main wall to the left of Past Lives that are listed as 'projects' in the guide book, including the black water streak. However, I did see bolts in that shady area you mention. I don't have any personal experience there but I'm sure that Outdoor Outlet would have information if they've been completed.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Hue and Cry (5.9+)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: This route name is listed as 'Hue and Cry' and as a .10b in one of the update sheets I got from Outdoor Outlet years ago. I personally thought it was about a 5.8.


Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap
By: jtwalter When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: I agree that this area isn't the best that St. George has to offer. However, there are some fun routes here in the .10 - easy .12 range, with the majority being top ropes or more moderate climbing. If you're a beginner climber or just starting leading this is a good area to frequent. The routes here are typically short, easy to toprope, while a few of them have missing bolts. This is a good winter crag.

It feels to me that the St. George locals abandoned this area as they found stellar climbing... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Visionaries (5.10c)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch of The Visionaries is about as good as it gets on this wall--very fun climbing with a moderate grade. I didn't think the second pitch of this route was .10c. Seemed more like a 9+, if that hard. While the moves were awkward, they weren't difficult at all. We didn't use any additional gear either. The four existing bolts seemed adequate.

Our rope got stuck twice at the top of the second pitch when we were trying to rappel--once in the rock and once it was pinched in the chains. T... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: Full on killer route! Seemed like about a .10b. Very steep but HUGE hand holds. I got a flapper in the palm of my hand from this route. The large hueco to the left of the 5th bolt is big enough for me to stand up in. Great rest.

7 bolts with rappel bolts for the anchors. The second bolt is located in one of the huecos so a longer draw would be a good idea to keep your biner off the edge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Firstborn (5.10c)
By: jtwalter When: Oct 25, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun route. Steep and juggy at the start and then it makes you think a little. While cleaning the draws off this I thought it would be cool to climb this route and clip one chain and climb through to the chains higher on the .10a to the left.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Jax Cliff
By: jtwalter When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: Spent a great day of autumn climbing up at Jax Cliff. My buddy posted to his blog about it:

kendallcard.com/climbing/autumn-climbing-in-the-uintas


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Super Bowl Wall : Back in the Saddle (5.10d)
By: jtwalter When: Oct 1, 2007

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Comments: Back in the Saddle is route #4b in the Beta Photo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Winds of Fire (5.10a)
By: jtwalter When: Sep 24, 2007

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Comments: Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Photo
By: jtwalter When: Sep 23, 2007

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Comments: That's got to be Beehive. Teeanova goes up the right side of those bulges.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : A Place Where I Can Hide (5.8)
By: jtwalter When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: This must be the climb that is listed as a project in Jason Steven's Maple Canyon guide book.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Something Must Break (5.11a/b)
By: jtwalter When: Aug 3, 2007

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Comments: This is a great route. This route is on the main wall farthest to the right before the small trail that goes to the .10s. This is the warm up for the harder climbs to the left. Probably the longest route on the wall - 9 bolts plus the chains. You'll definitely need a 60m rope. There were 2 leaver biners at the chains to lower off when we climbed there (Aug 2007). High quality climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Escape Buttress : Denied (5.10c)
By: jtwalter When: Jul 30, 2007

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Comments: This would be an easy onsight if you're comfortable with climbing on the rest of the routes on Escape Buttress. The crux is going above the 2nd bolt, just like all Escape routes. I didn't think this was any harder than Steel Graffiti, the 10b to the right of Twist and Shout.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Metal (5.10c/d)
By: jtwalter When: Jul 17, 2007

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Comments: This is a pretty fun route. While it's a bit stiff, the moves are fun and it's not a straight forward jug haul. This route has side pulls, gastons, crimps, smears and even a mantle, all in 5 bolts. The only thing it's missing is a killer pocket. IMO this route is more fun than The Hidden, the 10c to the left, and not that much more difficult.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall
By: jtwalter When: Jun 8, 2007

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Comments: Back in the early 90's when this wall was being developed there were a lot more trees in front of the wall, and so it was 'hidden' from view. You could be climbing there and unless you were talking or at the top of the routes, no one would know that you're there.


Location: tenesmus : Lone Peak : Photo
By: jtwalter When: May 22, 2007

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Comments: Nice photo. This is a great route! The 2nd pitch wanders and isn't very fun, but the last pitch more than makes up for any pain and suffering.


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