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Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah alpine ice fall 09 : Post : Photo
By: jtwalter When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are those Skinny Puppy logos on your ice tools? and helmet?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Tinker Toys : Battleship (5.10b) : Photo
By: jtwalter When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That actually looks like a picture of Mike hanging on Battleship.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : Lemme Put My Love Into You (5.8)
By: jtwalter When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would definitely second the idea about rappelling from the anchors. The serrated edge at the top of the climb that the rope goes over is evil incarnate.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : AC/DC Wall : For Those About To Rock (We... (5.8)
By: jtwalter When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was pretty fun climbing, but a hammer and a broom could be put to good use on it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: jtwalter When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on Saturday right before the storm rolled in. The really small but critical left foothold when going through the roof at the last bolt broke when I stepped on it. Guess I need to shed a few pounds.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tank Trap (5.10c)
By: jtwalter When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! If more people knew about this route you'd have to wait in line to get on it. Stellar.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Suicide Blonde (5.11b)
By: jtwalter When: Mar 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you're referring to Beehive. It's like a .12b or something. Here is a photo of the route I think you're referring to : http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/american>>>>>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall
By: jtwalter When: Mar 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone been up here lately (late winter/early spring) and know what the conditions are? Wondering if the climbing would be good on a sunny day.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Shadow and Flame (5.10b)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if it was because I was so gripped or because I was climbing with a pack on, but pulling over the first roof felt pretty stout to me. The holds right over the roof are pretty big, but the exposure increases the pucker factor. There is pretty loose rock on this route still. I pulled off some fairly large rocks pulling over the last roof. Fun climbing and great exposure.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Caging the Zealot (5.10b)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes to the left of Caging the Zealot are (from left to right):
Harbinger - .11b
Conditional Bliss - .10a
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Pocket Change (5.11a)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is probably the climb at Division that sees the most whippers. The climbing is typical pocket pulling up to the last bolt and then the horror show begins.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Sticky Revelations (5.10a)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a variation about 7 feet to the right of this route with a separate set of anchors at the ledge for the top of the first pitch. I don't know if this is a new route or just a variation of Sticky Revelations. If felt like about a .7/8. I'm guessing that it's a variation to the first pitch of Sticky Revelations because it's such a popular route.
BTW, there are bolts all over this wall these days. It's like an outdoor multi-pitch gym.
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Location: International : Canada : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Lotus Flower Tower : Southeast Face (5.11-)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great video of Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell, Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet climbing Lotus Flower Tower.
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/alp>>>>>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Past Lives (5.9)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a pretty wide section of the main wall to the left of Past Lives that are listed as 'projects' in the guide book, including the black water streak. However, I did see bolts in that shady area you mention. I don't have any personal experience there but I'm sure that Outdoor Outlet would have information if they've been completed.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap : Hue and Cry (5.9+)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route name is listed as 'Hue and Cry' and as a .10b in one of the update sheets I got from Outdoor Outlet years ago. I personally thought it was about a 5.8.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Green Valley Gap
By: jtwalter When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this area isn't the best that St. George has to offer. However, there are some fun routes here in the .10 - easy .12 range, with the majority being top ropes or more moderate climbing. If you're a beginner climber or just starting leading this is a good area to frequent. The routes here are typically short, easy to toprope, while a few of them have missing bolts. This is a good winter crag.
It feels to me that the St. George locals abandoned this area as they found stellar climbing... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Visionaries (5.10c)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch of The Visionaries is about as good as it gets on this wall--very fun climbing with a moderate grade. I didn't think the second pitch of this route was .10c. Seemed more like a 9+, if that hard. While the moves were awkward, they weren't difficult at all. We didn't use any additional gear either. The four existing bolts seemed adequate.
Our rope got stuck twice at the top of the second pitch when we were trying to rappel--once in the rock and once it was pinched in the chains. T... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+)
By: jtwalter When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Full on killer route! Seemed like about a .10b. Very steep but HUGE hand holds. I got a flapper in the palm of my hand from this route. The large hueco to the left of the 5th bolt is big enough for me to stand up in. Great rest.
7 bolts with rappel bolts for the anchors. The second bolt is located in one of the huecos so a longer draw would be a good idea to keep your biner off the edge.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Firstborn (5.10c)
By: jtwalter When: Oct 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun route. Steep and juggy at the start and then it makes you think a little. While cleaning the draws off this I thought it would be cool to climb this route and clip one chain and climb through to the chains higher on the .10a to the left.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Jax Cliff
By: jtwalter When: Oct 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spent a great day of autumn climbing up at Jax Cliff. My buddy posted to his blog about it:
http://kendallcard.com/climbing/autumn-climbing-in-the-uinta>>>>>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Super Bowl Wall : Back in the Saddle (5.10d)
By: jtwalter When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in the Saddle is route #4b in the Beta Photo.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Winds of Fire (5.10a)
By: jtwalter When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Photo
By: jtwalter When: Sep 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's got to be Beehive. Teeanova goes up the right side of those bulges.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: jtwalter When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This must be the climb that is listed as a project in Jason Steven's Maple Canyon guide book.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The 11a (5.11a/b)
By: jtwalter When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. This route is on the main wall farthest to the right before the small trail that goes to the .10s. This is the warm up for the harder climbs to the left. Probably the longest route on the wall - 9 bolts plus the chains. You'll definitely need a 60m rope. There were 2 leaver biners at the chains to lower off when we climbed there (Aug 2007). High quality climbing.
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