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JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 588
Total Points: 1,029
Last Year: 72
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 749 | Routes 22 | Areas 22 | Photos 54 | Page Improvments | Comments 209 | Posts 397 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pine Line (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Great picture. It's also a fantastic example of foreshortening!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified! Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.

The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Traversing right ~20' after you've cleared the steeper stuff on P1 is preferable if there's another party on Pas de Deux, since the left finish overlaps with that route.

My 'secret' way of doing The Move on P1 involves an elbow jam / lockoff. It's bomber once you've got it!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Zip (5.10a)
By: JSH When: May 8, 2009

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Comments: Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: actually, it is pretty good for a butt shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: Interesting variety of comments! I found this easier than Touch & Go. The chimney is pretty secure.

I really enjoyed the route, especially the variety of climbing on it - a few moves of almost everything.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Nereltne (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.

The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Fun House (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 27, 2009

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Comments: The 2nd pitch crux feels a good touch harder to me, now that the tree root no longer offers a Samsonite(TM) jug past the bulging hand/fist section.

In contrast to the above comment: *don't* get there early, that's when everyone else gets there. Head up well past noon: it'll be shady, and hopefully the crowds will have dispersed.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 27, 2009

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Comments: I have also seen someone deck from this route ... be careful to protect ledge-fall (and zippering!), the ground is closer than you think.

This route can be 5.8. Unless you climb it like the crack that it is (ie, minimize your use of feet on the face), and find the good stances, it can seem much harder, very quickly, and more so than other routes. The pro does sometimes take a moment to get right, but it's 100% G.

Such sweet climbing and position, though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Strawberry Jam (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2009

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Comments: The placement in question is 6ish feet above your last piece, and 10ish feet above a ledge, so it's fairly crucial. It's deep and around or behind a bit of a corner; getting it and checking it is challenging. At 5'7", I was maxxed out at the highest place I could stem the gap - shorter people may well be SOL to see/place at all. I ended up downclimbing to the ledge to check the piece, at first.

The step-across move itself was trivial, once I'd spent all my gas getting the piece.... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Straight Flush (5.8)
By: JSH When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: An enjoyable mix of techniques. It might have been my early-season conditioning, but both my partner and I felt that the steep moves exiting and after the pod/cave were fairly stout for 5.8, even by Josh standards (well protected, though).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Wasp (5.9)
By: JSH When: Nov 5, 2008

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Comments: The crux is tricky to protect *well*. I use a BD micronut, an upward-pull nut down lower, &/ pink and black tricams. Your mileage may vary. I also later found a good BD TCU placement once we'd given up our Aliens.

The climbing above the GT seemed very loose - we opted not to continue.

This is a favorite route of mine, and was my first (intentional) 5.9 once upon a time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 20, 2008

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Comments: There is indeed a loose block above - as in, you're standing just after having pulled - the crux roof on the variation. It's fairly loose, but fairly obviously loose. You'll want to place pro to protect follower(s) climbing through the roof, so take care to place it well above the loose block and you'll be fine.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9)
By: JSH When: Dec 28, 2007

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Comments: Tony, you must not be a local? This route is routinely gang-roped from dawn to dusk. It took me the better part of a season to find it free to lead. Late afternoon is a good time to seek it out, after the crowds have worn their friends out.

Please be courteous if you're going to TR this route, or Ents. Note: If you TR Ents, you *will* interfere with a leader on Ants - so don't do it. As a reminder, leaders have the right-of-way. (wonder how I know this?)

The route is steeper th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: JSH When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: At my height (5'7", -2 ape index), there is a 9+ or 10 move *before* placing the first piece of gear - I can't reach the first horizontal with my feet on anything reasonable. This is why I'll never lead this route - that move is a committing highball for me. Other moves on this route seemed reachy as well, and the route is really .... just so-so. Just my $0.02.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: The first few moves that most folks use for Higher Stannard are just out my reach (5'7", -2 ape index). At some point I'll try the left hand start to see how that goes.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rutabaga (5.11a)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: NB, I have not climbed P2. I only added the route so I could add the pics I had. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will offer up info for P2!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: Really fun as a start to Ultimate Everything. We linked p1+p2, p3+p4, and p5+p6, but note pitch lengths as so nicely described above: this involves a fair amount of simulclimbing, at 5.8 (though it's quite soft at this grade). Bring as many finger-sized cams as you want, or perhaps a double set of stoppers - it eats pro!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rock On (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: In my experience: Almost all the pitches are much shorter than as described in the guidebook. One can easily link P1 and P2, possibly P3 as well.

The leftward traverse at the end of P3 is at least 5m - plenty of bail stations above P3 indicated that a few parties might have missed the traverse. You can't see the bolted station below P4 until you've nearly completed the traverse.

The guidebook notes the possibility of linking P4 and P5, all the way up to the next bolts, and describes this as... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: P2 of Classic is a -great- finish to Jackie, and lets you avoid the clusterf***/crowds by walking off instead of rappelling.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: It's really too bad that P2 seems to have suffered "death by bolts" - I rarely see anyone climb it, now that the bolt anchors are there. It's a great little pitch, and it's really pretty quick to knock out and walk off; given the usual crowds, it's a good option!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : A Little Testis (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: BETA ALERT >> I was told that the crux was the awkward bulge, and that the upper corner was easy. Handcrack in a corner sounded right up my alley - but, after cruising the lower bulge, I blew the onsight above, pumped out in the upper corner. It's easier than the bulge, but - not by that much, and it's steeper than it looks!

Loved the pitch.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Seasoned in the Sun (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: I found the bottom "crux" to be relatively easy, but the off-fingers/rings section (0.5 camalots) above the pod put me into quite a ... state (but perhaps I shouldn't have warmed up at my limit, and in my defense it did start to rain just then). It's a nice, varied-size crack. As the previous comment said, similar to Klahanie Crack, it's longer than it looks from the ground, but eats nuts for breakfast!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slot Machine (5.9)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: There's also several ways of getting your ropes stuck, between the angle of the buttress, the mid-route tree, and the crack itself. I would have preferred to walk off!

I thought the starting moves only had a little bit of 5.10 in them (especially after I plugged up the best hold with gear ;-0), and I found them a bit reachy.


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