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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 633
Total Points: 1,068
Last Year: 40
Last 30 Days: 5
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 815 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 228 | Posts 442 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Unholy Wick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: Nicely described, Dana!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Good call, Mike - almost a textbook example. That block sure does rock back & forth! I'm going to guess that it's fairly well wedged in there, though - it sure has seen a lot of traffic. But I still wouldn't be pulling out on it!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : 50-50 (5.5)
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: The latest book lists this as G/PG - I felt it was on the more-serious side of PG, and would not put a newer leader on it. The crux involves several slabby face moves, a good couple of feet above and to the side of gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: It should also be noted - sling whatever piece you place before The Move long; legend tells a story of a climber whose rope was chopped when he fell above the move, and his rope was pulled across the sharp lip of the roof. The legend says that he fell to the ground (!) but suffered only a broken ankle.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: P3 was rated 5.7 up until the Grey Dick came out; and even at 5.7, it wasn't a gimme. That re-grading is the one I most strongly disagree with.

It's not easy to get *good* pro at the crux, because of the direction of rope pull, and the pumpy stance; and you're looking at hitting the ledge if you fall on bad pro. So I agree with Tim - I would not, not, not put a 5.5 leader on this pitch.

Repositioning the belay at the GT ledge, to just below the pitch, is a good idea.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: JSH When: Aug 3, 2009

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Comments: I agree that the right start nudges up towards 5.8 - I had some trouble when I led it, and corners are usually good to me.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: Great job with the description - totally agree on quality, and that it's a good 'testpiece 5.6'


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ent Line (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.

This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux, and I've even seen a small nut used to protect the first move rightwards.

That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle; and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!

Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and your second falls, they are taking almost if not the exact same fall as the leader - I... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: The pin on P2 seems ok to me, it's fairly sheltered by the roof above it.

P2 is one of those where you have to carefully consider the balance between rope drag, and protecting your 2nd. If you place a piece below the roof and sling it too long, your second will be unprotected at the crux, and will only have one chance at doing it. Doubles help with this.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5)
By: JSH When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: This isn't a great route for either new leaders or new followers - it traverses a lot in the first pitch, with large swings possible on either end of the rope. Also, this section of cliff has lots of loose rock on it - it's a good place to wear helmets, even on the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: As of 7/09, there are fairly-new rap slings around a fairly-dead and fairly-short stump. I'd advise continuing 20' more to the top - you can easily belay from the top, walk off the back then stroll down to your pack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Trigger Point (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: Nice enough route. Dick lists a variation of P1 as climbing the face to the left of the crack, after you've come up the initial flakes and stepped right. I think this is what I did - it felt like a somewhat bigger move than 5.6. The route proper says to step right after the initial flakes, then continue up past the crack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Honky Tonk Woman (5.9 R)
By: JSH When: Jun 27, 2009

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Comments: I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Westward Ha! (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: It's possible, and in fact a great idea, to rap only to the tree that's above the rotten rock on the first described pitch. Then you can link the rest of the first pitch with the second pitch, for one long pitch of continuous climbing. Doing it this way increases the exposure / feeling of being alone on the cliff at the crux of the second pitch, which is really just fantastic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Take care to extend your clifftop belay back towards the cliff edge - communication back to the 2nd belay can be difficult. Also, be careful of loose rock on top!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pine Line (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Great picture. It's also a fantastic example of foreshortening!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified! Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.

The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Traversing right ~20' after you've cleared the steeper stuff on P1 is preferable if there's another party on Pas de Deux, since the left finish overlaps with that route.

My 'secret' way of doing The Move on P1 involves an elbow jam / lockoff. It's bomber once you've got it!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Zip (5.10a)
By: JSH When: May 8, 2009

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Comments: Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: actually, it is pretty good for a butt shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).


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