Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact JSH


Point Rank: # 600
Total Points: 1,051
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 763 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 216 | Posts 403 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
Page 8 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Jul 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The pin on P2 seems ok to me, it's fairly sheltered by the roof above it.

P2 is one of those where you have to carefully consider the balance between rope drag, and protecting your 2nd. If you place a piece below the roof and sling it too long, your second will be unprotected at the crux, and will only have one chance at doing it. Doubles help with this.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5)
By: JSH When: Jul 20, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This isn't a great route for either new leaders or new followers - it traverses a lot in the first pitch, with large swings possible on either end of the rope. Also, this section of cliff has lots of loose rock on it - it's a good place to wear helmets, even on the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 10, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: As of 7/09, there are fairly-new rap slings around a fairly-dead and fairly-short stump. I'd advise continuing 20' more to the top - you can easily belay from the top, walk off the back then stroll down to your pack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Trigger Point (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 10, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Nice enough route. Dick lists a variation of P1 as climbing the face to the left of the crack, after you've come up the initial flakes and stepped right. I think this is what I did - it felt like a somewhat bigger move than 5.6. The route proper says to step right after the initial flakes, then continue up past the crack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Honky Tonk Woman (5.9 R)
By: JSH When: Jun 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Westward Ha! (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It's possible, and in fact a great idea, to rap only to the tree that's above the rotten rock on the first described pitch. Then you can link the rest of the first pitch with the second pitch, for one long pitch of continuous climbing. Doing it this way increases the exposure / feeling of being alone on the cliff at the crux of the second pitch, which is really just fantastic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Take care to extend your clifftop belay back towards the cliff edge - communication back to the 2nd belay can be difficult. Also, be careful of loose rock on top!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pine Line (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Great picture. It's also a fantastic example of foreshortening!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified! Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.

The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Traversing right ~20' after you've cleared the steeper stuff on P1 is preferable if there's another party on Pas de Deux, since the left finish overlaps with that route.

My 'secret' way of doing The Move on P1 involves an elbow jam / lockoff. It's bomber once you've got it!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Zip (5.10a)
By: JSH When: May 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: actually, it is pretty good for a butt shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting variety of comments! I found this easier than Touch & Go. The chimney is pretty secure.

I really enjoyed the route, especially the variety of climbing on it - a few moves of almost everything.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Nereltne (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.

The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Fun House (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The 2nd pitch crux feels a good touch harder to me, now that the tree root no longer offers a Samsonite(TM) jug past the bulging hand/fist section.

In contrast to the above comment: *don't* get there early, that's when everyone else gets there. Head up well past noon: it'll be shady, and hopefully the crowds will have dispersed.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I have also seen someone deck from this route ... be careful to protect ledge-fall (and zippering!), the ground is closer than you think.

This route can be 5.8. Unless you climb it like the crack that it is (ie, minimize your use of feet on the face), and find the good stances, it can seem much harder, very quickly, and more so than other routes. The pro does sometimes take a moment to get right, but it's 100% G.

Such sweet climbing and position, though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Strawberry Jam (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The placement in question is 6ish feet above your last piece, and 10ish feet above a ledge, so it's fairly crucial. It's deep and around or behind a bit of a corner; getting it and checking it is challenging. At 5'7", I was maxxed out at the highest place I could stem the gap - shorter people may well be SOL to see/place at all. I ended up downclimbing to the ledge to check the piece, at first.

The step-across move itself was trivial, once I'd spent all my gas getting the piece.... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Straight Flush (5.8)
By: JSH When: Mar 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: An enjoyable mix of techniques. It might have been my early-season conditioning, but both my partner and I felt that the steep moves exiting and after the pod/cave were fairly stout for 5.8, even by Josh standards (well protected, though).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Wasp (5.9)
By: JSH When: Nov 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is tricky to protect *well*. I use a BD micronut, an upward-pull nut down lower, &/ pink and black tricams. Your mileage may vary. I also later found a good BD TCU placement once we'd given up our Aliens.

The climbing above the GT seemed very loose - we opted not to continue.

This is a favorite route of mine, and was my first (intentional) 5.9 once upon a time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 20, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: There is indeed a loose block above - as in, you're standing just after having pulled - the crux roof on the variation. It's fairly loose, but fairly obviously loose. You'll want to place pro to protect follower(s) climbing through the roof, so take care to place it well above the loose block and you'll be fine.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9)
By: JSH When: Dec 28, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Tony, you must not be a local? This route is routinely gang-roped from dawn to dusk. It took me the better part of a season to find it free to lead. Late afternoon is a good time to seek it out, after the crowds have worn their friends out.

Please be courteous if you're going to TR this route, or Ents. Note: If you TR Ents, you *will* interfere with a leader on Ants - so don't do it. As a reminder, leaders have the right-of-way. (wonder how I know this?)

The route is steeper th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: JSH When: Sep 3, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: At my height (5'7", -2 ape index), there is a 9+ or 10 move *before* placing the first piece of gear - I can't reach the first horizontal with my feet on anything reasonable. This is why I'll never lead this route - that move is a committing highball for me. Other moves on this route seemed reachy as well, and the route is really .... just so-so. Just my $0.02.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Sep 3, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The first few moves that most folks use for Higher Stannard are just out my reach (5'7", -2 ape index). At some point I'll try the left hand start to see how that goes.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rutabaga (5.11a)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: NB, I have not climbed P2. I only added the route so I could add the pics I had. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will offer up info for P2!


Page 8 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>