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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 633
Total Points: 1,068
Last Year: 40
Last 30 Days: 5
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 815 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 228 | Posts 442 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: hah! This is great.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: JSH When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: My SO Scott led this as the highlight of his season, and with Seth's and his help, I've fixed it up.

He specifically wanted to point out the scary 5.9R below the second roof (though you get good gear for the roof itself). Cheers, JSH


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Towers of Uncertainty : Crow's Nest : Trench Connection (5.5)
By: JSH When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: This route is just fantastic - easily one of the best at its grade, whatever that may be, in the park. It's almost like a super-easy version of Pope's Crack. It's an attractive line, many different ways to climb it, fairly continuous climbing, sew-up gear .... what a great route!

We 'found' it as a no-star, may-as-well-take-a-look route from the '92 Vogel guide, and it's totally brought back my appetite for seeking out hidden gems.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Were I belaying this guy, I'd have fed out a foot or three of slack on red, so that I could belay carefully on blue (which is protecting him from the ledge below). That way I could take in blue if he downclimbs, without worrying about pulling down on him on red. That also makes red easily available for a clip, and leaves red loose so it may not entangle him if he fell.

Ideally, the red would be between the climber's right leg and the rock. Michael is correct that red is highly unlikely to flip... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : J'accuse (5.10b PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...

Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: In another area, SI may well have been 5.9!

While I am guilty of legendary whining about other routes being reachy - this is not one of them. That said, it might take a few trips up it to figure out the best sequence or holds for you - there are many ways to skin the cat, on both cruxes.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Oct 27, 2010

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Comments: If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 18, 2010

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Comments: Likely, yes ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: Well, that's certainly what I thought at the time! :)

Most ropes/parties I've seen on Moonlight seem to get/scramble easily up to the ledge at ~10', step right around the left-facing corner at that level, then go up for ~10-20' before stepping back left into the corner proper. Or do what this guy's doing:

mountainproject.com/v/new_york...

What I climbed was the same ~10' up, but ~15' left of the start of the left-facing corner, then face climbed up and... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: And, note that Dick's Prick pinnacle is just about touching 10,000 Restless Virgins.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: I (think I) mistakenly started on this when climbing Moonlight. There's a short fissure/crack not far off the ground, that is perhaps only 5.6+ but certainly R. So, Step Lively's P1 is not a great first pitch for a moderate leader.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: This works for me too (so far as I remember, been a while). What I meant by "beta label" is that there is a decent crimper/hold for the right hand, which the climber in the photo has his hand on. Most people don't seem to notice because they've usually got their back to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: This picture almost needs a "beta" label. Nice shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: ... and at the start, for that matter.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 9, 2010

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Comments: This is a pretty good pic of 'the move'!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Mark, can you be more specific about *which* right-facing corner this route climbs off the GT? So far as I know, it's Wisecrack on the left, next-right is Bombs Away, then comes Middle Earth's right-facing corner. Where does Faithful Journey fit in there?

It might be height, and I may have been tired, but I just about could not get off the ground here at all, and 5.7 should be well within my abilities.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Sorry for your loss; and thanks to your son for his service. What a wonderful memorial.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: JSH When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes, and it's really pretty easy to link P1 and P2 - just clip almost everything at & around the traverse with a 2' runner, then take care to mostly place stuff to climber's right until you've gotten to the P2 crack.

However, with a newer second, definitely do NOT link the pitches ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Scene of the Climb (5.11a PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: As of 2010, this route is almost completely hidden and covered by the growth of a maple tree at the base.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Bragg-Hatch (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: ??


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoy the top pitch - it's yet-another option after getting to the GT.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: Nice pic - the pitch wanders a bunch, but the climber shown on top really lets you know where to aim.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!

The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Northern Pillar (5.4)
By: JSH When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: Let me third the recommendation to skip the 3rd pitch!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Minty (5.4) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: Awesome.


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