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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker

Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 628
Total Points: 1,064
Last Year: 37
Last 30 Days: 2
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has JSH been climbing?


All 806 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 224 | Posts 437 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: Akline, none of my guidebooks give a name to that set of moves.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: JSH When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Dave, what's the PG13 part (the start?), or is it just generally necky?

Location: MA : Middlesex Fells : Black and White Rocks
By: JSH When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: These rocks are within the Middlesex Fells Reservation, officially governed by the DCR.

There's a good trail map (pdf) linked here:

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: JSH When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Kevin, that's what I've most often done, and it is nice. The nose is nice & a bit exposed, and you can also climb the open-book to the right at the top, all about the same grade.

It's possible to link the whole route in one pitch, if you sling things very carefully and follow the nose at the top.

Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Doug's Roof : Unnamed DA 2 (V0) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: well, F is right next to D on the keyboard ...

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: I have a complex mathematical transformation I perform on all re-graded routes ..... aaaanyway, I still think of this as 9. As Kevin said - tougher single moves than either Pas de Deux or Son of Easy O, which are the sane comparisons.

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: JSH When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Good luck not giggling your way up this crack ...!

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 9, 2011

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Comments: Nice perspective!

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Flake (5.1 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 16, 2011

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Comments: In early spring, this route can be a firehose!

Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: JSH When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: Ped, does Evernote need to be online for that to work?

Andy et al. - you should provide a PayPal link for voluntary donations anyway. I'd certainly pony up.

Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: JSH When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: I'm super excited to see this!

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.4)
By: JSH When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Since I'm just coming back from a foot problem, and it's early season ... this really was worth the walk, or at least it fit the bill for the moment, and I'm glad we hit it. I'd do it again, if I were bringing someone new out.

P1 is indeed undistinguished, similar to Moon/Sundance. But it's over fast!

P2 is stellar for its grade (range) - great rock, great position, continuously interesting. It's a great option for a first lead. There's definitely a move or two on it, as well.

The rap... more >>

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know.

Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: JSH When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: By all means, please do! I think adding it as an Area under the main Gunks page is the thing to do - same as the Trapps Bouldering section, and it'll need its own Area page, like this one:


I'll leave it up to you as to whether lumping all P-kill bouldering in one page, or making separate subareas for each boulder/area, is best.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Boring (5.9 X)
By: JSH When: Mar 8, 2011

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Comments: Yikes!

For those of us with shorter necks, this can be toproped easily from the rappel bolts, but beware that you'll be toproping the rappel line (for that matter, you should beware if you lead it, as well).

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : First Impressions: Joshua T...
By: JSH When: Mar 6, 2011

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Comments: When I'm in Josh, my partner and I typically carry a separate sack with all of Bartlett's guides; the old Vogel (for the East) and the new Vogel. It sure adds up!

It would be super nice to have one book that covers it all (well) and manages to skip over the no-star clumps that always seem to sucker me in.

Although, spending at least one day wandering around but climbing nothing still needs to be a Josh rite of passage.

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, I'll be having nightmares about this soon ...

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: Long ago, my friend D. posted to a forum: "What route did I fall off of yesterday?" after she'd come off of some route up here, tumbling so far that her ankles brushed the ledge, and everyone on the ledge gasped. Because the Bombs Away roof/corner is both harder and less at-your-waist protected than Middle Earth, I think we eventually figured it was Bombs Away.

The guidebooks have been somewhat unclear in distinguishing the three top pitches. Looking at mine now, I think it's because Dick d... more >>

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wild Horses (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: The Black Dick only lists the (above) 4 on the FA.

I removed Tim's recommendation to set a gear anchor above the direct line of the route -- because I helped carry out an acquaintance who did exactly that, then leaned back and decked (luckily, no lasting injuries). He told me later that he'd placed 3 cams under a block that shifted. The blocks up there are rather large, so that was surprising, but - best just use the tree and a directional.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 7, 2011

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Comments: Y'all are cfrac'ing crazy!

Did Rob have to take the big swing when he followed?

(I may need to move the video to fit it in better. Lemme check with the Powers That Be.)

Oh, and - those are the bolts on top of Moonlight that you rapped from, yes?

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: hah! This is great.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: JSH When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: My SO Scott led this as the highlight of his season, and with Seth's and his help, I've fixed it up.

He specifically wanted to point out the scary 5.9R below the second roof (though you get good gear for the roof itself). Cheers, JSH

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Towers of Uncertainty : Crow's Nest : Trench Connection (5.5)
By: JSH When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: This route is just fantastic - easily one of the best at its grade, whatever that may be, in the park. It's almost like a super-easy version of Pope's Crack. It's an attractive line, many different ways to climb it, fairly continuous climbing, sew-up gear .... what a great route!

We 'found' it as a no-star, may-as-well-take-a-look route from the '92 Vogel guide, and it's totally brought back my appetite for seeking out hidden gems.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Were I belaying this guy, I'd have fed out a foot or three of slack on red, so that I could belay carefully on blue (which is protecting him from the ledge below). That way I could take in blue if he downclimbs, without worrying about pulling down on him on red. That also makes red easily available for a clip, and leaves red loose so it may not entangle him if he fell.

Ideally, the red would be between the climber's right leg and the rock. Michael is correct that red is highly unlikely to flip... more >>

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