Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact JSH


Point Rank: # 600
Total Points: 1,051
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 763 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 216 | Posts 403 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
Page 4 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Flake (5.1 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 16, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: In early spring, this route can be a firehose!


Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: JSH When: Apr 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Ped, does Evernote need to be online for that to work?

Andy et al. - you should provide a PayPal link for voluntary donations anyway. I'd certainly pony up.


Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: JSH When: Apr 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I'm super excited to see this!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.4)
By: JSH When: Apr 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Since I'm just coming back from a foot problem, and it's early season ... this really was worth the walk, or at least it fit the bill for the moment, and I'm glad we hit it. I'd do it again, if I were bringing someone new out.

P1 is indeed undistinguished, similar to Moon/Sundance. But it's over fast!

P2 is stellar for its grade (range) - great rock, great position, continuously interesting. It's a great option for a first lead. There's definitely a move or two on it, as well.

The rap... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: JSH When: Mar 30, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: By all means, please do! I think adding it as an Area under the main Gunks page is the thing to do - same as the Trapps Bouldering section, and it'll need its own Area page, like this one:

mountainproject.com/v/new_york...

I'll leave it up to you as to whether lumping all P-kill bouldering in one page, or making separate subareas for each boulder/area, is best.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Boring (5.9 X)
By: JSH When: Mar 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Yikes!

For those of us with shorter necks, this can be toproped easily from the rappel bolts, but beware that you'll be toproping the rappel line (for that matter, you should beware if you lead it, as well).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : First Impressions: Joshua T...
By: JSH When: Mar 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: When I'm in Josh, my partner and I typically carry a separate sack with all of Bartlett's guides; the old Vogel (for the East) and the new Vogel. It sure adds up!

It would be super nice to have one book that covers it all (well) and manages to skip over the no-star clumps that always seem to sucker me in.

Although, spending at least one day wandering around but climbing nothing still needs to be a Josh rite of passage.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, I'll be having nightmares about this soon ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Long ago, my friend D. posted to a forum: "What route did I fall off of yesterday?" after she'd come off of some route up here, tumbling so far that her ankles brushed the ledge, and everyone on the ledge gasped. Because the Bombs Away roof/corner is both harder and less at-your-waist protected than Middle Earth, I think we eventually figured it was Bombs Away.

The guidebooks have been somewhat unclear in distinguishing the three top pitches. Looking at mine now, I think it's because Dick d... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wild Horses (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The Black Dick only lists the (above) 4 on the FA.

I removed Tim's recommendation to set a gear anchor above the direct line of the route -- because I helped carry out an acquaintance who did exactly that, then leaned back and decked (luckily, no lasting injuries). He told me later that he'd placed 3 cams under a block that shifted. The blocks up there are rather large, so that was surprising, but - best just use the tree and a directional.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Y'all are cfrac'ing crazy!

Did Rob have to take the big swing when he followed?

(I may need to move the video to fit it in better. Lemme check with the Powers That Be.)

Oh, and - those are the bolts on top of Moonlight that you rapped from, yes?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: hah! This is great.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Welcome to the Gunks (5.10a/b PG13)
By: JSH When: Dec 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: My SO Scott led this as the highlight of his season, and with Seth's and his help, I've fixed it up.

He specifically wanted to point out the scary 5.9R below the second roof (though you get good gear for the roof itself). Cheers, JSH


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Towers of Uncertainty : Crow's Nest : Trench Connection (5.5)
By: JSH When: Nov 22, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This route is just fantastic - easily one of the best at its grade, whatever that may be, in the park. It's almost like a super-easy version of Pope's Crack. It's an attractive line, many different ways to climb it, fairly continuous climbing, sew-up gear .... what a great route!

We 'found' it as a no-star, may-as-well-take-a-look route from the '92 Vogel guide, and it's totally brought back my appetite for seeking out hidden gems.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 9, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Were I belaying this guy, I'd have fed out a foot or three of slack on red, so that I could belay carefully on blue (which is protecting him from the ledge below). That way I could take in blue if he downclimbs, without worrying about pulling down on him on red. That also makes red easily available for a clip, and leaves red loose so it may not entangle him if he fell.

Ideally, the red would be between the climber's right leg and the rock. Michael is correct that red is highly unlikely to flip... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : J'accuse (5.10b PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...

Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Nov 2, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: In another area, SI may well have been 5.9!

While I am guilty of legendary whining about other routes being reachy - this is not one of them. That said, it might take a few trips up it to figure out the best sequence or holds for you - there are many ways to skin the cat, on both cruxes.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Oct 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Likely, yes ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 15, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Well, that's certainly what I thought at the time! :)

Most ropes/parties I've seen on Moonlight seem to get/scramble easily up to the ledge at ~10', step right around the left-facing corner at that level, then go up for ~10-20' before stepping back left into the corner proper. Or do what this guy's doing:

mountainproject.com/v/new_york...

What I climbed was the same ~10' up, but ~15' left of the start of the left-facing corner, then face climbed up and... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: And, note that Dick's Prick pinnacle is just about touching 10,000 Restless Virgins.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 12, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I (think I) mistakenly started on this when climbing Moonlight. There's a short fissure/crack not far off the ground, that is perhaps only 5.6+ but certainly R. So, Step Lively's P1 is not a great first pitch for a moderate leader.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This works for me too (so far as I remember, been a while). What I meant by "beta label" is that there is a decent crimper/hold for the right hand, which the climber in the photo has his hand on. Most people don't seem to notice because they've usually got their back to it.


Page 4 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>