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JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 605
Total Points: 1,031
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 2
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 754 | Routes 22 | Areas 22 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 211 | Posts 400 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Brian -- my Black Dick says there's a distinct pitch for Moondance, and that the straight-up romp is Sundance.

Peter - thanks for the additions. I originally under-described the pitch on purpose, in the spirit of adventuring, this much further down the cliff.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: According to the guidebook, this was named after the incident with the bus and the hairpin turn on 44/55 in 1981, when the bus was left hanging in space. I wonder if there are pictures in the interwebs somewhere ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: You could do Bloody Mary and yank yer rope over below the Drunkard's roof; that route's second pitch traverses almost all the way over to below Drunkard's. I'd be willing to bet you could start up Sixish and wander over there as well. The face is less steep once you get 40-ish feet up. But you'd be tying up several routes at once, so ... consider that.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sultana (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: I second Seth's comment.

edit add: ok, Dana, I'll do it. Sometime. I promise ;-)


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Hope you said something?


Location: CO : A Starry Night by Isabel Su...
By: JSH When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for highlighting this, John. I've just ordered it and am looking forward to reading it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Brian, you're right, and I think I remember that way long ago the first time I climbed there, we did climb a separate first pitch to the right (traversing from the pedastal, maybe?). Then on subsequent visits, the face to the right looked like it had more lichen then protection. I'll take a look at the books and try to straighten it out.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Whet Stone (5.8)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Lots of worthwhile climbing on this pitch! It didn't seem to let up - not as easy as it looks from the ground, for sure.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Route Awakening (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: While most of this pitch was fairly easy, there were a few moves that were surprisingly steep and demanding. Overall, fairly pleasant, and a worthwhile diversion. It will only improve with more traffic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This is on P2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The crux is the right-leaning crack that is directly left of the sentry box.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : V.D. (5.10a/b PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: The route Dick's Prick was added in June 2013, and notes an anchor on top of the pinnacle.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Catnip (5.6 PG13) : Photo (Copy)
By: JSH When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Three of four right-facing corners; Catnip starts with the left-most corner shown here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Dick's Prick (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: ok - thanks!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Dick's Prick (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Simon, have you climbed this route? There's a note under VD, the next route on the pinnacle, that there's no rap anchor on top of the pinnacle.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: JSH When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Hope it heals quickly, Stephanie!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7)
By: JSH When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Thank Dog!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: The seam above the ledge is what I meant ... no pro, and ledge-fall!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Whatever you do, don't climb the seam that's over there on the left. Trust me on that.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: I don't think there is any gear available besides what you get that ends up being at/below your feet as you reach for jugs.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Horseman (5.5)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: What happened to the tree on p1?
Time, love & tenderness.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Both of those options aren't great - the hanging belay is what Seth said, and it's also pretty easy to lock yourself down if you try to link it and fail. A third thing to consider is doing a very short first pitch, then linking the last two.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: That P1 rappel pinch eats slings for breakfast -- they HAVE to be replaced often. Inspect carefully.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I've worked on making sure every route has FA & descent information -- nice to see it noticed ;-). Glad you got down ok in the end.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Nice.


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