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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for helping to clear that up, Dana. The lined photo in the back of the 1991 guide also shows it going right. I'm going to amass all of the above comments and rewrite the route description.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We found almost nothing with which to go straight up from the dihedral - can you clarify what one should do here? My black Dick says to walk 15 feet right on the ledge, to another left-facing dihedral. What we climbed was more open-book than dihedral ...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Nose Drops (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So you traverse right to the shared Ursula - Groovy - Space Invaders anchor? If so, I will (or you can) add that to the description - I think aiming towards anchor that would clear up a little of the confusion.
LosBill, the pitons with red slings are the top of another route (which I thought Dana was describing here, but that's not the case). I think it may be described in the newest book (I'll dig into that), though I don't think it's been described as having a 2nd pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Nose Drops (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dana, perhaps use this picture
http://www.mountainproject.com/images/85/0/105908500_large_8>>>>>
(here's what the original creator probably used:
http://sites.google.com/site/betacreator
to add a line for Nose Drops?
Anthony, I -think- what Dana is calling a sentry box is obvious on this picture, about halfway up the face shown, to the right of the drawn line.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Nose Drops (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dana, can you please describe how or where this crosses Ursula? Does it stay between Ursula and Groovy and end at the shared anchor, or does it cross Ursula and end at that new-ish fixed sling anchor right of Bonnie's crux?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: JSH When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So this is left of Red Pillar? Could you link it to the last pitch of that?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Disneyland (5.6)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the crucial part about extending is this: once you've done the mantle and made a move left, turn back and manually flip your rope towards you over the roof below. Makes the upper stuff much nicer.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Tangled Up and Blue (5.8-)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We both ended up doing a fair amount of face climbing to the right of the chimney, where it was bombay.
Fun enough route - watch for loose stuff.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That may be true, but it would turn Ken's into PG13! :-)
My understanding has always been that protection ratings apply to what the rock offers you (which, for Bloody Mary, is good gear every 2 feet), not what you bring to the rock. It's worthwhile to note that pro may be difficult to place - and that's true for many, many routes - but you're not in PG13 danger due to a lack of opportunity for pro.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Arc of a Diver (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the same thing for a 2nd pitch. I think you did well to describe it that way. The 2nd pitches there overlap a lot, and it makes more sense just to keep going up than to wander around.
I do remember feeling that the 3rd pitch was reachy.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Unholy Wick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nicely described, Dana!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have no idea why two folks rate this PG-13 ... anyone care to comment?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good call, Mike - almost a textbook example. That block sure does rock back & forth! I'm going to guess that it's fairly well wedged in there, though - it sure has seen a lot of traffic. But I still wouldn't be pulling out on it!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : 50-50 (5.5)
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The latest book lists this as G/PG - I felt it was on the more-serious side of PG, and would not put a newer leader on it. The crux involves several slabby face moves, a good couple of feet above and to the side of gear.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : High Exposure (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It should also be noted - sling whatever piece you place before The Move long; legend tells a story of a climber whose rope was chopped when he fell above the move, and his rope was pulled across the sharp lip of the roof. The legend says that he fell to the ground (!) but suffered only a broken ankle.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had trouble with the first pitch. First, there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well. Second, the moves out of the dihedral are fairly in-obvious, stiff, and not well protected at all.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P3 was rated 5.7 up until the Grey Dick came out; and even at 5.7, it wasn't a gimme. That re-grading is the one I most strongly disagree with.
It's not easy to get *good* pro at the crux, because of the direction of rope pull, and the pumpy stance; and you're looking at hitting the ledge if you fall on bad pro. So I agree with Tim - I would not, not, not put a 5.5 leader on this pitch.
Repositioning the belay at the GT ledge, to just below the pitch, is a good idea.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: JSH When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, I agree, and we're trying to figure out a way to deal with it. The software automatically alphabetizes listings - it's not voluntary, and we can't re-order the listing. Most other climbing areas have natural subdivisions of separate cliffs which get listed to the left, which sometimes leads to individual routes themselves getting buried below 5 levels of clicking. As you know, this natural subdivision is not the case at the Gunks! Any ideas you have would be appreciated - please do po... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: JSH When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the right start nudges up towards 5.8 - I had some trouble when I led it, and corners are usually good to me.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job with the description - totally agree on quality, and that it's a good 'testpiece 5.6'
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Ent Line (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.
This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux. Also, as it's a popular route, the fall from the crux has been tested hundreds of times; if it were a serious-injury-causer PG-13, that would be well known.
That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle, and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!
Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and yo... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pin on P2 seems ok to me; it can be backed up with a BD micronut.
P2 is one of those where you have to carefully consider the balance between rope drag, and protecting your 2nd. If you place a piece below the roof and sling it too long, your second will be unprotected at the crux, and will only have one chance at doing it. Doubles help with this.
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